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#48445 by cincinnati » Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:05 pm

houlerhoule wrote:Had the same problem a few months ago. I thought it might need a new starting capacitor. Removed the motor and brought to a local electrical shop that repairs and rewinds electric motors. He said he had worked on several other SS motors in the past and for the same complaint. He found that too much sawdust gets into the motor and it won't run. Needs to be blown out with air. My SS was manufactured in early 80's so I asked him to put new bearings, starting capacitor, and check the rest of motor out. He also found that the wiring bundles in stator were loose and needed to be re-tied. Cost me $35.00 for what I considered a complete overhaul.


I believe that was a common complaint and downfall of the SS2K. It had an open motor and dust would get in and cause problems.

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#48467 by lnrmiller » Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:12 am

Took the motor to the motor shop. Described the problem to the tech who said immediately that the problem wasn't going to be the motor, problem would be the relay. He turned out to be a fellow woodworker and did check out the motor for me, spent about 45 minutes on it. Clean bill of health, ran fine on the bench. My problem is finding a suitable relay. The Klixon 6CR series was discontinued years ago and no one can find me a suitable replacement, or give me the pick up and drop out specs on the unit to find something else. I've called distributors, Texas Instruments (who used to make Klixon) and Sensata who now own Klixon and have bassicaly been told that I'm out of luck.

I do, however, have a possible solution. A solid state relay. In talking with the motor tech he showed me a solid state unit that they use to replace the centrifugal switch in on older motors that can't be repaired or replaced.

Instead of switching based on the current draw of the motor (like mine) or the rotation of the motor, the switch on/off is based on time, ie 1/3 second, 1/2 second etc. I'm going back over there on Friday to pick one up and give it a try.

I've been tied up every night this week and haven't been able to tinker with the SS2K but Friday is my day off so I'll be hitting the motor shop. I'll post more information and pics as I get on with the project

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Rick
Jacksonville, FL
MKV 520 PowerPro, bandsaw, jointer, belt sander, SS2K

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Re: SS2k

#183458 by mauione » Mon Feb 02, 2015 7:55 am

lnrmiller wrote:I'll try to post a pic of the relay tonight. I ran all the numbers on it and came up empty handed, I've had real good luck simply googling the model number of a component and finding a replacement, just not this time.

As long as I have the motor removed I'll sneak out of work this afternoon or tomorrow and run it across town to the local elec motor shop and see what they have to say.



I just pick up a SS2k Ultra. Cosmetically it is in great condition. The guy I got it from said the capacitor was bad. I am not sure if it is that or the relay, however the capacitor has been removed and I do not know what to put in it. Also I was wondering if you were able to get a solid state to work? I know that this might be a lot to ask, but I do not know exactly which wire goes where. Could you possibly take some pictures and put on here too?

Thank you for your help

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Re: sawsmith 2000 question

#183459 by dusty » Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:23 am

maybe you guys with SS2k motor problems could sit down with a paper and pencil an sketch us a wiring diagram.

What is the part number on the motor.

I ask but I do not really expect that knowing the number will allow me to do anything. Shopsmith has always been real secretive about part number seasrches. I have been told by an Emerson employee that they (Emerson) were strictly forbidden by contract of giving out technical detail about Emerson motors that were built for Shopsmith.

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"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.

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Re: sawsmith 2000 question

#183461 by mauione » Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:04 am

This is what I have so far.

Attachments

SSmith001.jpg
pic01
SSmith001.jpg (516.25 KiB) Viewed 4339 times

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Re: sawsmith 2000 question

#183463 by JPG » Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:37 am

If the 'solid state' starter is the same as those sold for refrigeration compressors I would steer clear of them.(better than nothing though).

They are essentially a thermister in series with the start winding that has low resistance when cold that increases with rise in temperature. That thermal cycle(cool down) is too long for frequent on/off cycle use on a saw.

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╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Re: sawsmith 2000 question

#183473 by mauione » Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:06 pm

Just got off the phone with shop smith, they said the do not have any parts for this.
Battles Hardware in Cali 5626983714 might be able to help.

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Re: sawsmith 2000 question

#183503 by billmayo » Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:44 pm

I find that thermal protection relays do take some time to recover. That is what you want to keep the motor from overheating. You need one that does not use current but heat from the motor to trip. The reset switch covers the current over loading. If you are able to blow out the sawdust once or twice a year from the motor, I would believe you could bypass the thermal protection relay without any problems. Proper saw blade alignment really helps along with a sharp saw blade to prevent the motor from overheating. Ripping long boards can be a problem if any misalignment. I have removed the thermal protection relay on several RAS motors without having any problems occur later. Of course, I took frequent breaks to let them cool down.

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Re: sawsmith 2000 question

#183509 by JPG » Tue Feb 03, 2015 1:01 am

I see 4 wires coming from the motor.

Step one is to measure the resistance between the wires.

This requires an ohmmeter that has a low range, as the resistances will be quite low(<1).

The purpose of measuring is to determine which windings each of the wires is connected to.

Once that is known, and a start capacitor is available(175 +- 8%?? MFD) a temporary manual start hookup can be tried.

Assuming the motor starts/runs, the induced emf in the start windings can be measured to determine a suitable voltage range for the 'start relay'.

What I am proposing is a different type start relay from that shown in the pix which appears to be a series current sensing relay.

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╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Re: sawsmith 2000 question

#262757 by Sawdust1 » Sat Sep 14, 2019 6:21 pm

I am new to this forum and am the original owner of a Sawsmith 2000 which I purchased in 1994. The saw has several accessories including the Excalibur fence upgrade. Recently the saw will not turn on. I'm looking to get it working again, may sell it soon, and was hoping it is just the switch and not the saw motor. I have a manual that is in good shape, but did not find a wiring diagram for the switch circuit in it. Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for the switch circuit?

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