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19 posts 1 2

Re: Circular Saw Issue

#262515 by JPG » Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:56 am

algale wrote:Also makes sure ALL your locks are engaged! Table height, table tilt, carriage, headstock, & quill.


BOTH when verifying alignment AND when making a cut.

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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Re: Circular Saw Issue

#262516 by Gene Howe » Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:18 am

rocklaw wrote:
Gene Howe wrote:Does the cross cut read at the angle at which you had set the miter gauge? i.e. Is your cut at 90° if that's the angle you wanted?
The board against the miter gauge might be moving towards the blade just a bit as the cut is being completed. You might try attaching some sand paper to the face of the gauge or, making and attaching a wooden auxiliary face to the gauge.


Yes, the angle is correct, I use the squeeze clamp and it does it every time. I've even used the opposite miter gauge on the other side of the blade.

Thanks for your reply.
Pete

If you're getting the exact same thing on BOTH sides of the blade, it ain't an alignment issue.

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Re: Circular Saw Issue

#262520 by JPG » Tue Sep 03, 2019 5:45 pm

Gene Howe wrote:
rocklaw wrote:
Gene Howe wrote:Does the cross cut read at the angle at which you had set the miter gauge? i.e. Is your cut at 90° if that's the angle you wanted?
The board against the miter gauge might be moving towards the blade just a bit as the cut is being completed. You might try attaching some sand paper to the face of the gauge or, making and attaching a wooden auxiliary face to the gauge.


Yes, the angle is correct, I use the squeeze clamp and it does it every time. I've even used the opposite miter gauge on the other side of the blade.

Thanks for your reply.
Pete

If you're getting the exact same thing on BOTH sides of the blade, it ain't an alignment issue.

Now that depends upon whether it drags on the workpiece or the cutoff.

If alignment is off, it drags on the workpiece on one side and it drags on the cutoff on the other.

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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Re: Circular Saw Issue

#262521 by Gene Howe » Tue Sep 03, 2019 6:22 pm

JPG, yep. Thats why I specifically said " the exact same thing". ;)

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Re: Circular Saw Issue

#262522 by everettdavis » Tue Sep 03, 2019 7:43 pm

If you go to the post titled Shopsmith Large Format Drawings Illustrations and More you will find on the main page two documents that may help.

My Method to The Alignment Process

and

What Can a Single Crosscut tell you.

There are a number of ways to do alignments published by Shopsmith and this is my method not the only method.

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Re: Circular Saw Issue

#262525 by JPG » Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:16 pm

Gene Howe wrote:JPG, yep. Thats why I specifically said " the exact same thing". ;)


Different words, different meanings . . .

Sometimes lack of picky details leads one to interpret things differently.

I interpreted 'the exact thing' using either slot to mean the blade dragged at the end of the cut against the workpiece. I am not sure how that is possible all things being equal. It also is not an indication of mis-alignment.

IF the table IS misaligned to the blade, the blade will drag at the end of the cut at the leading edge on one side but on the other side it will drag on the end of the cut but on the trailing edge.

Similar effect but 'different'.

The miter gauge angle setting does not matter.(the blade should cut without dragging regardless of the angle).

Other than the workpiece 'slipping' against the miter gauge, mis-alignment is the only thing that will cause dragging at the end of the cut.

Yeah!, beating this subject to death!

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╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Re: Circular Saw Issue

#262528 by Gene Howe » Wed Sep 04, 2019 6:57 am

[/quote]

Yeah!, beating this subject to death![/quote]

Sometimes we get good ideas that way. Hope the OP gets it solved and tells us how he did it. It's bugging me.

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Re: Circular Saw Issue

#262555 by rocklaw » Sat Sep 07, 2019 2:35 pm

OK, thanks!

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Re: Circular Saw Issue

#262584 by robinson46176 » Mon Sep 09, 2019 8:33 am

At this point have we tried a different blade yet?
Is there a similar problem when ripping?
Be very careful making test cuts of any kind since such problems are what places boards quickly on the other side of the shop...

At this point how many of us are wishing we could just drop by and make a cut with this saw to be able to solve the problem? :)
Good luck.

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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill

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