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16 posts 1 2

Which arbor do I need

#142689 by Cavediver » Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:21 am

I'd like to get a couple of arbors for buffing wheels and wire wheels, and am having trouble finding the correct part on the Shopsmith site. Can anyone give me a helping hand with the correct part number(s)?

Also, is it easy to change out the wheels, or should I purchase multiple (dedicated) arbors?

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#142692 by terrydowning » Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:36 am

I use a much older version of this

1/2 inch shaper arbor I have 2, one for each side. I do quite a bit of buffing between pen making and hand tool refurb.

I have also used 1/2 inch coarse thread bolts 2 washers and a nut. Hold it with the drill chuck.

For the pen making, I'm building a 3 wheel buff for use in lathe mode using 1/2 inch all thread, 2 nuts and washer per buffing wheel and some 1/2 inch PVC spacers between the wheels.

Drill a tapered hole in one end of the rod using a 60 degree starter bit to seat on a 60 degree live center in the tail stock.

Rod is held with my 1/2 inch collett chuck at the head, the drill chuck could also be used (If I could find mine, it's still MIA. I'm sure as soon as I purchase a replacement it will turn up.)

I may build a 2 wheel model of this for my metal buffing wheels.

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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.

1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g

Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX

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#142712 by hjlssfor1 » Thu Apr 04, 2013 3:25 pm

terrydowning wrote:I use a much older version of this

1/2 inch shaper arbor I have 2, one for each side. I do quite a bit of buffing between pen making and hand tool refurb.

I have also used 1/2 inch coarse thread bolts 2 washers and a nut. Hold it with the drill chuck.

For the pen making, I'm building a 3 wheel buff for use in lathe mode using 1/2 inch all thread, 2 nuts and washer per buffing wheel and some 1/2 inch PVC spacers between the wheels.

Drill a tapered hole in one end of the rod using a 60 degree starter bit to seat on a 60 degree live center in the tail stock.

Rod is held with my 1/2 inch collett chuck at the head, the drill chuck could also be used (If I could find mine, it's still MIA. I'm sure as soon as I purchase a replacement it will turn up.)

I may build a 2 wheel model of this for my metal buffing wheels.


Terry:

Would you be willing to post any images of what you describe above?

Thanks, Hank

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#142716 by terrydowning » Thu Apr 04, 2013 4:23 pm

Once I get more progress on it.

I'll be out of town the next several days, so don't expect anything until next week.

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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.

1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g

Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX

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#142717 by Cavediver » Thu Apr 04, 2013 4:26 pm

Thanks Terry. The bolt idea is a pretty good one. When I finally get my machine up and running (and get a drill chuck) I'll give it a shot. Certainly it'll be good enough for most of my needs.

A real arbor will be necessary for a few other projects, so thanks for that info as well.

terrydowning wrote:For the pen making, I'm building a 3 wheel buff for use in lathe mode using 1/2 inch all thread, 2 nuts and washer per buffing wheel and some 1/2 inch PVC spacers between the wheels.

Drill a tapered hole in one end of the rod using a 60 degree starter bit to seat on a 60 degree live center in the tail stock.


It seems like it would be easy to drill that hole slightly off center. Would that cause a bad (terminal?) wobble in the assembly? I'm sure it'll be fine at lower RPMs, but what will happen when you increase the speed?

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#142718 by terrydowning » Thu Apr 04, 2013 4:36 pm

This why I took my time marking, center punching, confirming the center punch, then slow drilling with the starter bit. So far it seems to turn OK, on my smaller lathe. I haven't had it up on the SS yet. I still need t cut the PVC spacers. The spacers solve 2 problems:

1. cover the spinning all thread which I'd rather not come into contact with.

2. since the nuts will contact the spacers that should prevent them the nuts on the left side of each wheel from loosening up. This happened to me during a test. No big deal really, just the buffing wheel not doing its job any longer. Similar issue using the bolt with a nut. Choose a bolt length that allows the nut to sit against the front of your chuck so it does not loosen up. and snug it down tight.

The SS arbors reduce this issue by using slotted stock for the arbor and a keyed washer between the turning item and the nut. Since the washer does not get to turning, the nut tends to stay put if snugged down sufficiently.

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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.

1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g

Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX

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#142720 by JPG » Thu Apr 04, 2013 5:04 pm

If making threaded arbors from screws, get the ones that are not threaded all the way to the head. This provides a fairly centered straight shaft. Cut the head off and chamfer the end slightly. Using two jam nuts on the inside end provides loosening prevention. Use washers between the nuts and the item being mounted.

Far cheaper than $35.;)

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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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#142721 by terrydowning » Thu Apr 04, 2013 5:13 pm

I need to add the following safety issue/concern.

I'm only talking about an arbor for buffing!! If it's a little off center no big deal really.

DO NOT RUN ANY CUTTING HEADS OR TOOLING FROM AN IMPROVISED ARBOR!!!!!!

The savings encountered are nothing compared to a hospital visit.

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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.

1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g

Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX

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#142722 by JPG » Thu Apr 04, 2013 5:16 pm

terrydowning wrote:I need to add the following safety issue/concern.

I'm only talking about an arbor for buffing!! If it's a little off center no big deal really.

DO NOT RUN ANY CUTTING HEADS OR TOOLING FROM AN IMPROVISED ARBOR!!!!!!

The savings encountered are nothing compared to a hospital visit.


Good point! No metal objects mounted.:eek:

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╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E(SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange

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Triple Buff and SS Arbors

#142959 by terrydowning » Mon Apr 08, 2013 2:14 pm

Here are photos of my triple Buff currently mounted on my 1939 Dunlap Lathe, but could easily be mounted on my SS.

I have not added the PVC spacers yet.

Wheels and Compounds used Left to right

Stitched cotton - Tripoli
Loose Cotton - White Diamond
Loose Cotton - I will use a blue plastic polishing compound. I have not yet added any to this wheel.

[ATTACH]20880[/ATTACH][ATTACH]20881[/ATTACH]

Here are some shots of metal buffing wheels. on SS 1/2 inch arbors attached to my SS.

Left wheel uses a heavy cutting compound for scratch removal on Iron and steel, right wheel uses Tripoli
[ATTACH]20882[/ATTACH]

Here is a close up of the arbor, notice the groove in the threaded portion and the fine threads. The washer has a tab that matches the groove to keep it from spinning.
[ATTACH]20883[/ATTACH]

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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.

1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g

Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX

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