Sharpening
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Figure
24-1.
The machines and accessories used for grinding are: (A) disc
sander, (B) belt sander, (C) strip sander, (D) grinding wheel,
(E) specialty grinding stones, and the sharpening guide. The
sharpening guide which is used with the disc sander, belt
sander and strip sander is shown with the disc sander.
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Sharpening (grinding
and honing) woodworking tools is very personal and can be accomplished
in many ways--you will sharpen tools the way that works best for
you. Tools are ground on machines and then honed on several types
of stones. Grinding eliminates defects in the cutting edge by removing
metal from the tool. Honing puts a razor sharp edge on the ground
cutting edge of the tool. This chapter will cover the different
ways of grinding and honing many of the basic cutting tools used
for woodworking. Because of the diverse nature of woodworking and
the thousands of tools available we can not possibly cover everything
in just one chapter. For additional sharpening information consult
the tool manufacturer or your local library.
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Grinding
Machines And Accessories
The Shopsmith
machines and accessories that we will be using to show the different
grinding techniques are the Disc Sander, Belt Sander, Strip Sander,
Grinding Wheel, Sharpening Guide, plus specialty grinding stones
(Figure 24-1). The abrasives generally used to perform grinding
tasks are: aluminum oxide and silicon carbide for belts and discs
used on power sanders, and silicon carbide for wheels used in power
grinders.
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Sharpening
Safety
As with other
power tool operations, sharpening safety is Paramount! Know the
machine that you are about to use. To protect yourself and others
from personal injury take the time to review these important safety
considerations:
Read, understand,
and follow ALL the safety and other information in the Owners Manual
that applies to the machine, machines or accessories you plan to
use.
- Always
wear proper eye and face protection.
- Always
support the tool that you are grinding.
- Always
operate the machine at the recommended speed.
- Never
turn on the machine with the tool or cutter already against the
abrasive.
- Never
connect a dust collection system to the grinding machine or accessory
during grinding operations. Sparks and/ or hot pieces of metal
could ignite the sawdust or debris in the collection bag.
- Never
perform any grinding operations without the appropriate shields
and guards in place and properly positioned.
- Always
inspect the abrasive surface of the disc, belt, or wheel for any
wrinkles, tears or cracks. Replace any defective abrasive materials
IMMEDIATELY. Always grind with the tool's cutting edge pointing
AWAY from the direction of rotation of the disc, belt or rubber
bonded abrasive wheel.
- Never
mount the VelcroŽ Sanding System on the disc sander for grinding
operations. The cutting edge of the tool or cutter will dig into
the soft-backed sandpaper and throw the tool or cutter from your
hands possibly causing injury and certainly damaging the tool
and the sanding system.
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Grinding
Lathe Chisels
Lathe chisels
can be ground on several Shopsmith machines. However using the Shopsmith
Sharpening Guide with the disc sander, the belt sander or the strip
sander is probably the easiest. Chisels can also be ground on the
grinding wheel accessory but there is less apparatus to guide the
chisels so accuracy is more difficult. Lathe chisels are held three
different ways for scraping, cutting, and shearing. Therefore, they
must be ground properly for the way they are going to be used. Some
chisels can be ground and held to cut in more than one way while
others are designed to cut stock one way only.
The skew and
the gouge are generally ground for shearing with a long bevel and
then honed to a razor sharp edge. They are intended to shear or
cut (depending on how they are held) and are used to make spindle
turnings. They can, however, also be ground and used as scraping
tools.
The parting
tool is ground for either cutting or scraping and is honed razor
sharp only when it is intended for cutting. The roundnose chisel
is generally ground with a short bevel and the burr is left on the
cutting edge. This chisel is seldom honed and is intended to scrape.
It is used to make both spindle and faceplate turnings.
Shearing chisels
can be used to scrape and scraping chisels can be used to shear
if this works best for you, but there are a few things to remember.
Warning:
When any chisel ground to a shearing angle is used to remove stock
with a scraping technique, especially with alternating grain direction,
the sharp cutting edge will dig into the stock, stalling the machine
or throwing the chisel and! or the stock. This will leave a deep
gouge in the stockand possibly throw the tool from your hands causing
injury and certainly damaging the tool.
Round bottom
gouges, even when ground for scraping, will roll when the upper
corners come in contact with the rotating stock causing them to
dig into the stock. This will throw the tool from your hands possibly
causing injury and certainly damaging the tool and the workpiece.
The double beveled
chisels, skew and parting tool, are measured across both bevels.
This is known as an included angle. (This angle includes both bevel
angles.)
The longer
the bevel or the smaller the angle ground on the chisel, means a
sharper tool that will leave a smoother cut. However, the tool will
be more difficult to control.
As you grind
away metal, the chisel will become short and the handle ferrules
will hit the sharpening guide, especially at the shearing settings.
By then you will have ground past the heat treated end. For this
reason, the chisel dulls quickly and needs to be replaced.
When you're
using the disc sander or the belt sander mounted on the Mark V,
always grind at Slow speed. For grinding on the strip
sander, follow the recommended speeds for the different grits in
the Owners Manual.
Because grinding
removes metal with a moving abrasive working against a stationary
metal tool, a great deal of frictional heat is created. To keep
this heat from building up and destroying the factory heat treating
and hardening of the tool (temper), hold the tool against the abrasive
momentarily then slide it away. Repeat this procedure until the
tool has been sufficiently ground. Caution: Have a container
of water nearby to cool (quench) the tool if it becomes too hot
to touch. If you notice that the too/is discoloring and turning
blue, you are either holding the tool against the abrasive too long
or too hard, the abrasive is dull or the speed setting is too fast.
When you're
using the disc sander, the dust chute is used to contain the abrasive
particles and protect the way tubes from grit. An alternative to
using the dust chute is to place an 8" to 12" wide piece of scrap
lumber on the way tubes under the sanding disc. Caution: When
you're finished grinding, always slide the power plant away from
the grinding position and wipe the way tubes clean.
Grinding
Lathe Chisels using the Sharpening Guide
The Shopsmith Sharpening Guide mounts on the disc sander, belt sander
and the strip sander and is used to grind skews, gouges, parting
tools and roundnose chisels. Set up the machine you will be using
and grind the chisels accord-ing to the applicable instructions
below. To determine the sharpening guide angle settings, refer to
Table 24-1.
Table
24-1: Sharpening Guide Angle Settings |
Left
Setting (Shearing)
|
|
Right
Setting (Scraping) |
|
20 |
15 |
10 |
5 |
0 |
5 |
10 |
15 |
20 |
Skew |
25 |
30 |
35 |
40 |
45 |
50 |
55 |
60 |
65 |
Gouge |
25 |
30 |
35 |
40 |
45 |
50 |
55 |
60 |
65 |
Parting
Tool |
40 |
45 |
50 |
55 |
60 |
65 |
70 |
75 |
80 |
 |
Figure
24-6.
To sharpen lathe chisels, mount the sharpening guide on the
extension table only.
|
Disc Sander
Setup-Mount the sharpening guide on the Mark V extension table
(Figure 24-6).
Warning: To sharpen lathe chisels, mount the sharpening guide
to the extension table only. Mounting the guide to the worktable
may cause the cutting edge of the chisel to dig into the abrasive
and the tool to be thrown from your hands.
Adjust the sharpening
guide to the desired angle setting. Slide the sanding disc to within
1/16" of the sharpening guide then secure the power plant lock.
Warning: Never use the VelcroŽ Sanding System to grind tools.
 |
Figure
24-7.
Position the guide to within 1/16" of the belt.
|
Belt Sander
Setup-Position the belt sander vertically and set the table
to the 0 setting. Position the parting tool station
of the sharpening guide in front of the belt sander backup plate.
Adjust the guide to the desired angle setting. Warning: Position
the sharpening guide to within 1/16" of the belt and secure the
table locking setscrews (Figure
24-7).
 |
Figure
24-8.
Draw an index line 3-5/8" from, and parallel to the platen.
|
Strip Sander
Setup-Set the strip sander worktable to 90° and adjust the
sharpening guide to the desired angle setting. Because there are
no table slots or mounting holes in the strip sander table, the
sharpening guide must be clamped to the table top. An index line
is used to align the guide. Draw this line 3-5/8" from, and parallel
to the platen (Figure 24-8).
 |
Figure
24-9.
Clamp the sharpening guide to within 1/16" of the belt.
|
When setting
the angle, position the hole in the rear of the sharpening guide
and the angle setting indicator directly over the index line. Slide
the sharpening guide along the line until the desired station is
in front of the belt. Make sure the sharpening guide is within 1/16"
of the belt, then clamp the guide securely to the table (Figure
24-9).
Grinding
the Skew-The skew chisel has a bevel ground on both sides at
an angle not perpendicular to either the side faces or the top and
bottom edges. To grind this compound angle the skew must be held
at an angle to the abrasive and leaned to the left and to the right.
These angles are controlled by the sharpening guide.
 |
Figure
24-10.
Position the tip of the skew down and the side against the
left wall of the second station.
|
Position the
tip of the skew down and the side against the left
wall of the second station of the sharpening guide (Figure
24-10). Be sure the skew is not touching the abrasive
and the speed dial is set to Slow (if you are
using the Mark V), then turn on the machine.
Gently slide
the skew against the wall of the skew grinding station and into
the moving abrasive. Hold the chisel there momentarily then back
it away. Repeat this several times.
 |
Figure
24-11.
Position the tip of the skew up and the side against the right
wall of the second station.
|
Turn the skew
over and position the tip of the skew up and lay the side
of the skew against the right wall of the second station
(Figure 24-11).
Gently slide
the skew against the station and into the moving abrasive. Hold
it there momentarily then back it away. Repeat this several times.
Grind away
only enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create
a slight burr. If the skew is being ground for scraping, then it
is ready to use (the burr is sharp and scrapes very well). If the
skew is being ground for shearing or cutting, it will need to be
honed to a razor sharp edge.
Grinding
the Gouge-The gouge chisel has a bevel ground on the convex
side (bottom) at an angle measured from the concave side (top).
This bevel is curved to form a rounded cutting edge. To grind this
complex curved bevel, the gouge must be held at the proper angle,
fed into the abrasive and rotated. The angle is controlled by the
sharpening guide.
 |
Figure
24-12.
Set the gouge in the third station and lay its side against
the left wall.
|
Place the gouge
in the third station of the sharpening guide and lay the side of
the gouge against the left wall of the station (Figure
24-12). Rotate the gouge until its center touches the abrasive.
With the machine
OFF prac-tice rotating the gouge, first clockwise from
the center to the edge, and then counterclockwise from the center
of the gouge to the edge.You should notice while rotating the gouge
that in order to keep the bevel in contact with the abrasive, you
must slide the gouge forward on the station as the bevel is ground
from the center to each edge.
After you get
the feel of this grinding motion, be sure the gouge is not touching
the abrasive and the speed dial is set to Slow (if you
are using the Mark V), then turn on the machine.
Gently slide
the gouge against the wall of the station and into the moving abrasive.
Start rotating the gouge, like you practiced. Repeat this several
times.
Grind away only
enough metal to remove any damage to the cut-ting edge and create
a slight burr. If the gouge is being ground for scraping, it is
ready to use (the burr is sharp and scrapes very well). If the gouge
is being ground for shearing or cutting, it will need to be honed
to a razor sharp edge.
Grinding
the Parting Tool- The parting tool has a bevel ground on both
the top and bottom edges. To grind these angles the parting tool
must be held on its side at the proper angle to the moving abrasive,
turned over and reset at the exact same angle. These angles are
controlled by the sharpening guide.
 |
Figure
24-13.
Set the parting tool's side in the first station.
|
To grind the
parting tool, lay the side of the parting tool in the first station
of the sharpening guide (Figure
24-13). Be sure the parting tool Is not touching the abrasive
and the speed dial is set to Slow (if you are using
the Mark V), then turn on the machine.
Gently slide
the parting tool on the station and into the moving abrasive. Hold
it there momentarily then back it away. Repeat this several times.
Turn the parting
tool over and lay the other side in the first station. Slide the
parting tool on the station and into the moving abrasive. Hold it
there momentarily then back it away. Repeat this several times.
Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting
edge and create a slight burr. It is VERY important to grind an
equal amount from each bevel so that the widest part of the parting
tool is exactly at the cutting edge. If the parting tool is being
ground for scraping, then it is ready to use (the burr is sharp
and scrapes very well). If the parting tool is being ground for
cutting, it will need to be honed to a razor sharp edge.
Grinding
the Roundnose Chisel-The roundnose chisel has a bevel ground
on the bottom at an angle measured from the top. This bevel is curved
to form a round cutting edge. To grind this curved bevel the roundnose
chisel must be held at the proper angle to the moving abrasive,
pivoted and fed into the abrasive. The bevel angle is controlled
by the sharpening guide.
Grinding the
roundnose chisel on the fourth station is the only grinding operation
that does not repeat the factory angle. The new 15°
bevel angle is ideal for scraping. The distance between the pivoting
station and the moving abrasive will set the radius of the cutting
edge. Position the pivoting station close to the abrasive and the
cutting edge will be ground completely around the chisel leaving
no sharp corners. Position the pivoting station further away from
the abrasive and the cutting edge will be ground around the chisel
on a large radius leaving sharp corners where the sides and the
curved cutting edge join.
 |
Figure
24-14.
Position the roundnose chisel, bevel up in the fourth station.
Tighten the knob.
|
To grind the
roundnose chisel, position it, bevel up in the fourth station (the
pivoting station). Slide it under the knob until the center of the
round nose chisel touches the abrasive and tighten the knob (Figure
24-14).
With the machine
OFF practice pivoting the roundnose chisel first to
the left, and then to the right to complete the edge. You will notice
that the chisel will need to be repositioned further forward on
the grinding station to complete the bevel. After you get the feel
of this grinding motion, be sure the round-nose chisel is not
touching the abrasive and the speed dial is set to Slow
(if you are using the Mark V), then turn on the machine.
Gently slide
the roundnose chisel in the fourth station until it just touches
the moving abrasive. Tighten the knob and start pivoting the roundnose
chisel, like you practiced. Repeat this several times.
Grind away only
enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create
a slight burr. The roundnose chisel is ground for scraping, so it
is ready to use as is and should not be honed (the burr is sharp
and scrapes very well).
Grinding
Lathe Chisels using the Grinding Wheel
The Shopsmith Grinding wheel mounts on the Mark V and will grind
skews, gouges, parting tools and roundnose chisels. Set up the grinding
wheel on the Mark V and grind the chisels according to the applicable
instructions below.
Grinding
the Skew-The skew chisel has a bevel ground on both sides at
an angle not perpendicular to either the side faces or the top and
bottom edges. To grind this compound angle the skew must be held
at the proper angle to the side of the wheel and leaned to either
the left or to the right on the appropriate sides of the wheel.
Warning: Do not grind the skew on the front of the wheel. This
will leave a hollow ground bevel on the skew that may make the chisel
difficult to control.
One angle is
controlled by the tool rest and the other angle (the lean of the
tool) is controlled by feel.
 |
Figure
24-15.
Hold the skew on the tool rest with the tip up and the bevel
against the wheel.
|
To find the
desired tool rest angle setting hold the skew on the tool rest with
the tip up and the bevel of the cutting edge against either side
of the wheel. Loosen the wing nut and pivot the tool rest until
the cutting edge is parallel to the rotation of the wheel (Figure
24-15). At the same time, slide the tool rest to within 1/16"
of the wheel and then secure the wing nut.
 |
Figure
24-16.
Position the tip up, and lay the right side bevel against
the left side of the grinding wheel.
|
To grind the
skew, position the tip up and lay the right side bevel against
the left side of the grinding wheel (Figure
24-16).
Tilt the skew
away from the wheel and be sure the skew is not touching it and
the speed dial is set to Slow. Then turn on the Mark
V and set the speed dial to R (3400 RPM).
Gently lean
the skew back toward the side of the grinding wheel. Feel for the
bevel of the skew against the side of the grinding wheel. Hold it
there momentarily then lean it away. Repeat this several times.
 |
Figure
24-17.
Position the left bevel, with the tip up, near the right side
of the wheel.
|
Reposition the
left bevel with the tip up near the right side
of the wheel (Figure
24-17).
Gently lean
the skew into the side of the grinding wheel. Feel for the bevel
of the skew against the side of the grinding wheel. Hold it there
momentarily then lean it away. Repeat this several times.
Grind away only
enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create
a slight burr. If the skew is being ground for scraping, then it
is ready to use (the burr is sharp and scrapes very well). If the
skew is being ground for shearing or cutting, it will need to be
honed to a razor sharp edge.
Grinding
the Gouge-The gouge chisel has a bevel ground on the convex
side (bottom) at an 293 angle measured from the concave side (top).
This bevel is curved to form a rounded cutting edge. To grind this
complex curved bevel, the gouge must be held at the proper angle
to the grinding wheel, rotated and fed into the wheel. The angle
and the roll of the gouge is controlled by feel.
 |
Figure
24-18.
Practice rolling the gouge toward the front of the tool rest.
Feel the bevel seat on the wheel.
|
Set the tool
rest to 90° and slide it to within 1/16" of the wheel and then
secure the wing nut. Set the gouge on the tool rest with the cen-ter
of the bevel against the front of the grinding wheel and
the handle pointing to the left.
Practice rolling
the gouge toward the front of the tool rest (Figure
24-18). Feel for the bevel against the grinding wheel while
keeping the side firmly against the tool rest. Repeat this movement
with the gouge handle pointing to the right (Figure
24-19).
 |
Figure
24-19.
Roll the gouge to the front of the tool rest, this time with
the handle pointing to the right.
|
When you feel
confident with the rolling movement of the gouge, slide it away
from the wheel. Be sure that the gouge is not touching the wheel
and that the speed dial is set to Slow. Then turn on
the Mark V and set the speed dial to R (3400 RPM).
Gently slide
the gouge into the grinding wheel. Feel for the bevel of the gouge
against the grinding wheel. Roll the gouge just as you practiced,
first with the handle to 294 the right, then with the handle to
the left. Repeat this several times.
Grind away only
enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create
a slight burr. If the gouge is being ground for scraping, then it
is ready to use (the burr is sharp and scrapes very well). If the
gouge is being ground for shearing or cutting, then it will need
to be honed to a razor sharp edge.
Grinding
the Parting Tool- The parting tool has a bevel ground on both
the top and bottom edges. To grind these angles the parting tool
must be held on its edge at the proper angle to the grinding wheel,
turned over and held at the exact same angle. Adjust the tool rest
to match the center of the bevel previously ground on the parting
tool and slide the tool rest to within 1/16" of the wheel and then
secure the wing nut.
 |
Figure
24-20.
Lay the parting tool edge on the tool rest as shown.
|
Lay the edge
of the parting tool on the tool rest (Figure
24-20). Practice sliding the tool forward while holding it perpendicular
to the tool rest and the grinding wheel. Try this on both sides
of the parting tool.
When you feel
confident with the movement of the parting tool, slide it away from
the wheel. Be sure that the parting tool is not touching the wheel
and that the speed dial is set to Slow. Turn on the
Mark V and set the speed dial to R (3400 RPM).
Gently slide
the parting tool on the tool rest and into the grinding wheel. Hold
it there momentarily then back it away. Repeat this several times.
Turn the parting
tool over and lay the other edge on the tool rest. Slide the parting
tool on the tool rest and into the grinding wheel. Hold it there
momentarily then back it away. Repeat this several times.
Grind away only
enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create
a slight burr. Be sure to grind an equal amount from each side so
that the widest part of the parting tool is exactly at the cutting
edge. If the parting tool is being ground for scraping, then it
is ready to use (the burr Is sharp and scrapes very well). If the
parting tool is being ground for cutting, itwill need to be honed
toa razor sharp edge.
Grinding
the Roundnose Chisel-The roundnose chisel has a bevel ground
on the bottom at an angle measured from the top. This bevel is curved
to form a rounded cutting edge. To grind this curved bevel the roundnose
chisel must be held at the proper angle to the grinding wheel, pivoted
and fed into the wheel. The bevel angle is controlled by the tool
rest.
Set the tool
rest to a 5° to 10° angle to the wheel and slide the tool rest to
within 1/16" of the wheel. Then secure the wing nut.
 |
Figure
24-21.
Slide the chisel, bevel down, until its center touches the
grinding wheel.
|
Grinding the
roundnose chisel is the only grinding operation that does not repeat
the factory angle. The hollow-ground 50 to 10° bevel
angle is excellent for scraping. Set the roundnose chisel, bevel
down on the tool rest. Slide the chisel forward until the center
of the chisel touches the grinding wheel (Figure
24-21).
With the machine
OFF practice pivoting the roundnose chisel first to
the left, and then to the right to complete the edge. After you
get the feel of this grinding motion, be sure the roundnose chisel
is not toucriing the wneel and that the speed dial is set to Slow.
Turn on the Mark V and set the speed dial to R (3400
RPM).
Gently slide
the roundnose chisel on the tool rest and into the grinding wheel.
Like you practiced, pivot the chisel to grind the bevel.
Grind away only
enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create
a slight burr. The roundnose chisel is ground for scraping, so it
is ready to use as is and should not be honed (the burr is sharp
and scrapes very well).
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Honing
Lathe Chisels
After the skews,
gouges, and parting tools are ground for either shearing or cutting,
their cutting edges must be honed razor sharp.
In order to
hone the chisel you must be able to find and recognize the burr
created by grinding. This must be done properly and with extreme
care to avoid cutting yourself. As you progress from coarser to
finer stones, the burr will become smaller and more difficult to
find, but after you become more practiced at honing this will become
second nature.
 |
Figure
24-22.
Feel the burr by carefully rubbing your finger toward the
cutting edge.
|
To find the
burr, lightly rub your finger at right angles to the cutting edge
from the back of the bevel toward the cutting edge and across it
(Figure 24-22).
Warning: Be careful not to slide your finger along the cutting
edge. Even though the chisel is not yet honed, the burr is sharp.
Start honing
with a coarse stone. Apply a generous amount of liquid (if required)
to the surface of the stone. Set the chisel in the center of the
hone, and rock the chisel on the bevel until you see the liquid
squeeze out from between the ground surface and the stone. This
helps to show that you're holding the chisel at the proper angle.
Repeat this until you easily feel the bevel seat flat on the stone.
Slide the chisel over the hone as directed for each class of hone.
By repeating
this procedure on progressively finer stones you will be able to
hone the cutting edge of the chisel razor sharp.
There are a
couple of tests to check the sharpness of the cutting
edge: (1) A razor sharp cutting edge will cut end grain of wood
with little effort. (2) A razor sharp cutting edge will seem to
drag rather than slip when pulled across the corner of a piece of
hardwood. Do not use paper to test the sharpness because the glues
in the paper will dull the edge you worked so hard to obtain.
Honing the
Skew
 |
Figure
24-23.
Point the cutting edge in the same direction you are sliding
the skew.
|
The skew is
honed much like a pocket knife. Each has a bevel ground on both
sides of their cutting edge. The skew must be honed on the two bevels.
This will remove the grinding burr and sharpen the cutting edge.
By repeating this procedure on progressively finer stones you will
be able to hone the cutting edge razor sharp.
Using Oil
Stones and Diamond Hones--Hold one bevel of the skew on the
hone. Slide the skew over the hone with the cutting edge pointing
in the same direction you are sliding the skew (Figure
24-23). Think of it as trying to shave off a thin sliver of
the hone. Turn the skew over and repeat the procedure to hone the
other bevel.
 |
Figure
24-24.
For narrow chisels, point the cutting edge away from the direction
you are sliding the skew.
|
Using Water
Stones and Rubber Bonded Abrasives--To hone skews with a cutting
edge wider than 1/2" follow the oil stones and diamond hones instructions.
For skews with
narrower cutting edges, slide the skew over the hone with the cutting
edge pointing away from the direction you are sliding the skew (Figure
24-24). Think of it as trying to smooth over the surface of
the hone. Turn the skew over and repeat the procedure to hone the
other bevel.
Honing the
Gouge
The gouge must be honed on both the bevel ground on the outside
and the concave inside. This will remove the grinding burr and sharpen
the cutting edge.
 |
Figure
24-25.
Point and roll the outside of the cutting edge in the same
direction you are pushing the gouge.
|
A gouge slip
or other rounded (convex) slip will be needed to hone the inside
(concave) of the gouge. This medium or fine slip should match the
profile of the gouge as close as possible.
Using Oil
Stones and Diamond Hones--Hold the bevel of the gouge on the
hone. Roll the gouge as you push it over the hone. The cutting edge
should be pointing in the same direction you are pushing the gouge
(Figure 24-25).
Think of it as trying to shave off a thin sliver of the hone as
you roll the gouge.
 |
Figure
24-26.
Use a rounded slip to hone the inside of the gouge.
|
Change to the
slip. Apply a generous amount of oil to the inside of the gouge.
Set the hone in the gouge. Slide the slip from the cutting edge
to the handle while rotating the gouge so the entire cutting edge
on the inside is honed (Figure
24-26). Then return to the flat bench hone.
Using Water
Stones and Rubber Bonded Abrasives--Hold the bevel of the gouge
on the hone. Roll the gouge as you pull it over the hone. Slide
the gouge over the hone with the cutting edge pointing away
from the direction you are sliding the gouge (Figure
24-27). Think of it as trying to smooth over the surface of
the hone as you roll the gouge.
 |
Figure
24-27.
Point and roll the cutting edge away from the direction you
are sliding the gouge.
|
Change to the
water slip hone. Apply a generous amount of water to the top surface
of the hone. Set the concave side of the gouge down on the slip.
Slide the gouge away from the slip while rotating the gouge so the
entire cutting edge is honed on the inside. Then return to the flat
bench hone.
Honing the
Parting Tool
The parting tool is honed on the bevel ground on both sides of the
cutting edge. This will remove the grinding burr and sharpen the
cutting edge.
 |
Figure
24-28.
Point the cutting edge in the same direction you are sliding
the tool.
|
Using Oil
Stones and Diamond Hones--Hold the bevel of the parting tool
on the hone. Slide the parting tool over the hone with the cutting
edge pointing in the same direction you are sliding the tool (Figure
24-28). Think of it as trying to shave off a thin sliver of
the hone. Turn the parting tool over and repeat this on the other
bevel.
Using Water
Stones and Rubber Bonded Abrasives--Hold one bevel of the parting
tool on the hone. Slide the tool over the hone with the cutting
edge pointing away from the direction you are sliding the tool (Figure
24-29). Think of it as trying to smooth over the surface of
the hone. Turn the parting tool over and repeat the procedure to
hone the other bevel. Warning: Never attempt to hone the parting
tool with the rubber bonded abrasive wheel mounted on the grinding
wheel accessory. The cutting edge of the parting tool will dig into
the soft abrasive and throw the tool from your hands, possibly causing
injury and certainly damaging the tool and the rubber bonded abrasive
wheel.
 |
Figure
24-29.
Point the cutting edge away from the direction you are sliding
the tool.
|
Back
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Sharpening
Bench Chisels
A bench chisel
may be one of the most used and most abused tools in the shop. Along
with chiseling, it's sometimes used as a pry tool, a wedge, or even
a substitute for a screwdriver. Because of this, the bench chisel
could be the most sharpened tool in the shop. To sharpen bench chisels,
they must be ground, then honed.
Grinding
Bench Chisels using the Sharpening Guide
The Shopsmith Sharpening Guide mounts on the disc sander, belt sander
and the strip sander and is used to grind bench chisels. Set up
the machine you will be using and grind the chisels according to
the applicable instructions below. To determine the sharpening guide
angle settings, refer to Table 24-1.
Disc Sander
Setup--Mount the sharpening guide on the Mark V worktable and
adjust the worktable height. Mount the sharpening guide to the worktable
only. Mounting the guide to the extension table will not allow the
required 9° table tilt.
Tilt the worktable
9° toward the abrasive. To adjust the sharpening guide to the desired
angle setting, lay the flat bottom of the bench chisel against the
right-hand wall of the second station. With the tip of the chisel
against the abrasive, pivot the sharpening guide until the bevel
of the chisel sets flat against the abrasive. Secure the sharpening
guide in place.
Warning:
Position the sanding disc to within 1/16" of the sharpening guide.
Then secure the power plant lock.
Belt Sander
Setup--Set up the belt sander vertically. Mount the sharpening
guide to the table and secure it by tightening the two lock knobs.
Tilt the table 9° toward the table. Warning: Position and secure
the sharpening guide to within 1/16" of the belt and secure the
table locking setscrews.
 |
Figure
24-8.
Draw an index line 3-5/8" from, and parallel to the platen.
|
Strip Sander
Setup--Because there are no table slots or mounting holes in
the strip sander table, the sharpening guide must be clamped to
the table. An index line is used to align the guide. Draw this line
3-5/8" from, and parallel to the platen as shown in Figure
24-8.
When setting
the table tilt and the sharpening guide angles, hold the chisel
against the left wall of the second station of the guide. Position
the hole in the rear of the sharpening guide and the angle setting
indicator directly over the index line.
 |
Figure
24-30.
Position the sharpening guide within 1/16" of the belt
and clamp it to the table.
|
Slide the sharpening
guide along the line until the chisel in the second station of the
guide is in front of the belt. Warning: Position the sharpening
guide to within 1/16" of the belt. Then clamp the sharpening
guide securely to the table (Figure
24-30).
Grinding
Bench Chisels--Turn on the machine and set the chisel in the
second station of the sharpening guide. Slide the chisel into the
abrasive while holding it firmly against the left wall of the station.
Hold the chisel against the abrasive momentarily, then back it away
(Figure 24-31).
 |
Figure
24-31.
Slide the bench chisel into the abrasive. Hold the chisel
there momentarily, then back it away.
|
Repeat this
several times until any damage to the cutting edge is removed.
Grinding
Bench Chisels using the Grinding Wheel
The Shopsmith Grinding Wheel mounts on the Mark V. Select the proper
wheel for the severity of the cutting edge damage (coarse for nicks
and a badly worn cutting edge and fine for routine grinding). Set
up the grinding wheel according to the Owners Manual that came with
the Grinding Wheel Accessory.
The bench chisel
can be ground on the front or on either side of the grinding wheel.
When the chisel is ground on the front of the wheel, the bevel will
be hollow ground. Because this hollow ground edge is so thin, a
secondary bevel will need to be honed on the cutting edge. This
will be done with a coarse sharpening stone.
When the chisel
is ground on the side of the wheel, the bevel that is left is flat
and can be honed to a razor sharp cutting edge without the need
for a secondary bevel. Warning: Grinding on the side of the wheel
is tricky because there is nothing but feel to guide the chisel
to the proper angle and is not the best approach. Use extreme caution.
 |
Figure
24-32.
Set the angle so that the wheel is centered on the flat bevel.
Tighten the wind nut securely.
|
Grinding
Bench Chisels--Hold the chisel on the tool rest, loosen the
wing nut and tilt the tool rest so the bevel sets against the wheel.
If the chisel has a flat bevel, set the angle so that the wheel
is centered on the flat bevel. Tighten the wing nut securely (Figure
24-32). Remove the chisel from the tool rest and make sure the
speed dial is set to Slow. Then turn on the Mark V and
set the speed dial to R (3400 RPM).
 |
Figure
24-33.
If the chisel is narrower than the width of the wheel, hold
the chisel there momentarily, then back it away.
|
If the chisel
is narrower than the width of the wheel, slide the chisel up into
the wheel, hold it there momentarily and back it away (Figure
24-33).
If the chisel
is wider than the wheel, follow the instructions above, except you
must slide the chisel from side to side after it comes in contact
with the wheel (Figure
24-34).
Grind away
only enough metal to remove any damage. This will complete grinding
the primary bevel. To create the secondary bevel, hone the chisel.
 |
Figure
24-34.
If the chisel is wider than the width of the wheel, move the
chisel side to side, then back it away.
|
Honing Bench
Chisels
The bench chisel has a bevel ground on one side of its cutting edge.
This bevel as well as the flat bottom face must be honed. This will
remove the grinding burr and sharpen the cutting edge.
Start with a
coarse hone and moderate-to-heavy pressure to create the secondary
bevel. By repeating this procedure on progressively finer hones
you will be able to hone the cutting edge razor sharp.
 |
Figure
24-35.
Hone bench chisels on oil stones, by pointing the cutting
edge in the same direction you are sliding the chisel.
|
Using Oil
Stones and Diamond Hones--Hold the bevel of the chisel on the
hone. Slide the chisel over the hone with the cutting edge pointing
in the same direction you are sliding the chisel (Figure
24-35). Think of it as trying to shave off a thin sliver of
the hone. Turn the chisel over and repeat the procedure on the flat
side.
Using Water
Stones and Rubber Bonded Abrasives--To hone bench chisels With
a cutting edge Wider than 1/2", follow the oil stones and diamond
hones instructions.
 |
Figure
24-36.
For narrow chisels, on water stones, point the cutting edge
away from the direction you are sliding the chisel.
|
For bench chisels
with narrower cutting edges, slide the chisel over the hone with
the cutting edge pointing away from the direction you are sliding
the chisel (Figure
24-36). Think of it as trying to smooth over the surface of
the hone. Turn the chisel over and repeat the procedure on the flat
side.
Back
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Grinding
Planer and Jointer Knives
Jointer and
planer knives need occasional maintenance. This upkeep consists
of a simple cleaning and honing of the knives on the machine (see
the Jointer or the Planer Owners Manual).
However, this
type of edge repair will only go so far before the knives need to
be removed and thoroughly ground. The best way to grind jointer
and planer knives is to use the Shopsmith Grinding Wheel and Knife
Sharpening Accessory that mounts on the Mark V. Set up the grinding
wheel according to the Owners Manual that came with the Grinding
Wheel.
Select the proper
hard wheel for the severity of the cutting edge damage (coarse
for nicks and a badly worn cutting edge and fine for routine grinding).
Warning:
Never use the soft rubber-bonded abrasive or all-purpose wheels
to grind jointer or planer knives. The sharp cutting edge of the
knives will dig into the soft wheel and cause the knife to be thrown
from your hands, causing serious hand cuts and damaging the wheel
and the knife.
 |
Figure
24-37.
First, grind the primary bevel. Then grind the strengthening
secondary bevel.
|
Remove the knives
from the cutterhead according to the Jointer or the Planer Owners
Manual. Planer and jointer knives are ground in a two-step operation.
First, the primary bevel is ground. Then a secondary bevel is ground
on the front edge of the primary bevel (Figure
24-37). This strengthens the cutting edge and helps dissipate
the heat during cutting.
After the knives
are used, they can be either honed in the jointer or planer, or
reground on the secondary bevel. You will be able to regrind the
knives in this manner several times until the secondary bevel becomes
either wider than the primary bevel or wider than 1/8".
 |
Figure
24-38.
Center the knife bevel on the wheel.
|
Grinding
Wheel Setup--Set the primary bevel angle by placing the knife
on the knife rest in front of the knife guide. Loosen the wing nut
and tilt the tool rest until the knife bevel is centered on the
wheel (Figure 24-38).
Warning: Position the tool rest no further than 1/8" away from
the wheel. Then tighten the wing nut.
Position the
knife guide behind the knife so that it aligns the knife parallel
to and just touching the wheel. Securely tighten the two screws
that hold the knife guide in place. Remove the knife.
 |
Figure
24-39.
Hold the jointer knife with one hand while sliding it back
and forth across the wheel.
|
Grinding
the Knives--Be sure that the speed dial is set to Slow
Turn on the Mark V and set the speed dial to R (3500
RPM). Hold the knife firmly on one end of the knife rest and feel
for it seating solidly against the knife guide.
The 4" jointer
knives are held with one hand and slid back and forth across the
knife rest (Figure
24-39). The 12" planer knives are ground in three overlapping
sections (Figures 24-40A,
24-40B, and 24-40C).
Slide the knife
slowly across the knife rest and knife guide, and past the wheel.
Caution: Keep the knife moving. If you hesitate, the wheel will
heat up the knife and turn the edge blue. This will ruin the factory
heat treating.
Grind the knives
at this setting until the sparking stops. When the sparking stops,
the knife should be evenly ground.
If some of the
nicks are still showing on the edge of the first knife, or only
part of the bevel is ground, you may need to reset the guide and
continue grinding the primary bevel. But if the remaining edge damage
is minor or all but a slight part of the bevel is yet to be ground,
the secondary bevel grinding operation will grind away and true
up the edge.
Grind the primary
bevel on the other two knives at this setting. Then turn the speed
dial to Slow and turn off the machine.
 |
Figure
24-41.
Reposition the knife guide so that the knife just touches
the grinding wheel.
|
Set the secondary
bevel angle by loosening the Wing nut and resetting the tool rest
approximately 10° to 15° toward the wheel. Tighten the wing nut.
Place the knife on the knife rest and reposition the knife guide
so that the knife just touches the wheel (Figure
24-41). Repeat the knife grinding procedures explained above,
It should only take one or two passes to grind the secondary bevel.
It is not
necessary to hone the jointer and planer knives after they are ground.
The burr that is left on the cutting edge is small, and will be
knocked off at the first contact with the stock.
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Grinding
Shaper Cutters
Two and three
wing shaper cutters may be the most misunderstood cutters in the
workshop when it comes to sharpening. It may appear that all the
complicated curved wings, on each cutter, must be identically ground
and then honed on their curved surfaces. Well this is only partially
true and not nearly as difficult as it may sound. These cutters
need only be accurately sharpened on the leading flat face.
For shaper cutters
this is made easy be using the Shopsmith Sharpening Guide. By precisely
grinding the face of each wing of each cutter, the cutting edge
is sharpened.
Mount the sharpening
guide on the Mark V worktable and position it according to the Owners
Manual. Mount the sanding disc and position it 3" away from the
worktable.
To mount the
shaper cutter to the sharpening guide, first, slip the small rub
collar on the 1/2" shaper arbor. Then slide the arbor, from the
bottom up, through the hole in the base of the sharpening guide.
 |
Figure
24-42.
Hold the cutter wing against the sharpening guide and tighten
the nut finger tight.
|
Slip the cutter
over the arbor. Hold the cutter wing firmly against the face of
the sharpening guide. Install the tongue washer and nut. Tighten
the nut fingertight to hold the cutter in place (Figure
24-42).
Adjust the sharpening
guide to the 0 setting. Position the guide on the worktable
until the disc will completely cover the face of the cutter when
the quill is extended. Lock the sharpening guide securely in place
(Figure 24-43).
 |
Figure
24-43.
Position the cutter fully in front of the disc and lock the
guide in place.
|
Position the
disc no further than 2" away from the face of the cutter and lock
the power plant lock. Extend the quill until the disc comes in full
contact with the face of the cutter. Slight adjustments of the sharpening
guide may be needed at this time to position the cutter face precisely
in front of the disc.
Set the depth
stop to 0 and lock it in place. When the quill is extended
the abrasive will remove a slight amount of metal from the wing.
Be sure that
the speed dial is set to Slow, then turn on the machine.
Allow the abrasive to contact the cutter for only a moment then
allow the quill to retract. Continue this until the sparking stops.
Turn off the machine.
With the quill
retracted, unplug the Mark V, loosen and remove the arbor nut and
tongue washer holding the cutter in place. Slide the cutter off
the arbor. Rotate the cutter so that the flat of the next wing is
facing the disc. Replace the nut and tongue washer. While holding
the cutter against the side of the sharpening guide, tighten the
arbor nut securely.
Repeat the previous
grinding steps without moving either the depth stop, carriage or
the power plant. Rotate the cutter as described above to grind the
third wing of the cutter. Then hone the face of each wing.
Back
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Honing
Shaper Cutters and Router Bits
It is a simple
matter to remove the grinding burr from a shaper cutter left by
the abrasive. To avoid changing the cutter's profile, do not hone
its curved or beveled edges. Warning: Because of their size,
router bits are not easily ground so it is recommended that these
bits only be sharpened by honing the leading flat face.
To hone steel
cutters and bits, start with a coarse hone (of any type) and progress
to fine. To hone solid carbide or carbide tipped cutters and bits,
you must use a diamond hone. As you progress, reduce the pressure
applied to the hone.
 |
Figure
24-44.
Lay the flat face of the cutter on the surface of the hone
and rub the cutter across it.
|
Lay the flat
face of the cutter or bit on the flat top surface of the hone with
the rest of the cutter overhanging the edge. Rub the cutter or bit
up and down the hone (Figure
24-44). Be sure to hold the cutter flat against the surface
of the hone while working it back and forth.
Count your honing
strokes and hone each wing of the cutter or leading flat face of
the bit an equal amount. This will assure equal metal removal and
keep the cutter or bit properly balanced. The slight burr that may
be created after the grinding burr is removed from the cutter will
be knocked oft when the cutter first contacts the wood.
Back
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Honing
Molder Knives
Warning:
Molder knives should be honed only. Start with a coarse hone
(of any type), then progress to fine. Lay the flat face of the molder
knife cutting profile on the surface of the hone with the rest of
the knife overhanging the edge.
 |
Figure
24-45.
Lay the flat face of the molder knife on the surface of the
hone and rub the knife back and forth.
|
To avoid changing
the cutter's profile, do not hone its curved or beveled edges. Hold
the knife flat against the surface of the hone while working it
back and forth. (Figure
24-45). Warning: Hone ONLY the area of the knife that cuts
the wood. Do not hone the part of the knife that is held Inside
the molder head. If the surface of the knife inside the molder head
is thinned, the knife holding system will be weakened and the knife
may break.
Count your honing
strokes and hone each molder knife an equal amount. This will assure
equal metal removal from each knife and keep the assembled molder
head properly balanced. The slight burrs that may be created by
honing will be knocked off the cutting edges when the molder knives
first contact the wood.
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Honing
Lathe Duplicator Cutters
Warning:
Lathe duplicator cutters should be honed only. To hone the solid
carbide cutters (round, triangle, square or diamond), you must use
a diamond hone. Warning: DO NOT attempt to grind the solid carbide
cutters. The carbide dust is hazardous and may cause health problems.
 |
Figure
24-46.
Lay the flat side of the cutter on the surface of the hone
and rub it across the hone.
|
Lay the flat
side of the square or triangle cutter on the surface of the hone.
Hold the edge of the cutter flat against the surface while working
it up and down the hone (Figure
24-46). Count your honing strokes and hone each side of the
multi-sided cutters an equal amount. This will assure equal stock
removal from each side of the cutter.
 |
Figure
24-47.
To avoid honing a flat spot in the round cutter, roll it while
honing.
|
To avoid honing
a flat spot in the round cutter's profile, roll the cutter as it
is honed (Figure 24-47).
To hone the
cone (steel) cutter, start with a medium hone (of any type). Hone
the cutter progressing from medium to ultra-fine. Use the edge of
a curved slip stone to remove the burr on the inside of the cutter
and produce a razor sharp edge (Figure
24-48). Each cutter can only be honed a few times before its
size and profile are reduced so that it will not match the follower.
When this happens, the cutter may be discarded or the follower can
be sanded (by hand) with fine sandpaper to match the cutter.
 |
Figure
24-48.
Use the edge of a curved slip stone to hone the inside edge
of the cone cutter.
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Back
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Sharpening
Mortising Chisels
The inside of
the mortising chisels are ground and honed with special cone-shaped
grinding stones mounted in the drill chuck. The outside is then
honed on a flat bench stone.
Grinding
Mortising Chisels
Even when new the chisels will usually need to be ground or at least
honed. All four corners as well as the edges MUST be razor
sharp. This is critical to the accurate operation of the mortising
accessory.
Use the white
conical grinding stone to sharpen the 1/4" chisel, and the red conical
grinding stone to sharpen the 3/8" and the 1/2" chisels.
 |
Figure
24-49.
Construction details of a mortising chisel support fixture.
|
To properly
grind mortising chisels, a support fixture must first be made (Figure
24-49). The fixture will be mounted to the miter gauge. Set
up the Mark V in the horizontal boring mode. Instead of mounting
a drill bit in the chuck, install the proper grinding stone for
the size chisel being ground.
Clamp the support
fixture on the table. Set the chisel on the fixture and back up
the chisel with the rip fence. Hold the chisel against the fixture
and the fence, and center the chisel on the grinding stone and lock
the table in position.
 |
Figure
24-50.
Grinding a mortising chisel as shown. Retract the quill and
repeat until the stone stops removing metal.
|
Position the
power plant, with the stone mounted in the chuck, so that the stone
is 2" from the chisel. Extend the quill until the stone touches
the chisel and set the depth stop to 0 and allow the
quill to retract. Warning: Be sure that the speed dial is set
to Slow, then turn on the machine. Extend the quill
until it contacts the chisel momentarily then allow it to retract
(Figure 24-50).
Repeat this until the stone ceases to remove any more metal. Inspect
the tips and the edges of the chisel. Look for the grinding burr
on all edges and the four tips. If there are still ungrounded surfaces
or tips, repeat the above steps to remove additional metal.
If the stone
becomes loaded with metal particles, it can be cleaned. Turn off
the Mark V and apply a generous amount of oil to the stone. Rub
the oil into the stone to lift out the metal particles.
Honing Mortising
Chisels
After grinding is complete or the chisel has become slightly dull,
hone the mortising chisel on a flat bench stone and the cone-shaped
grinding stone.
 |
Figure
24-51.
Lay the chisel on a flat stone and move it back and forth
to remove the grinding burr.
|
Lay the chisel
flat on a bench stone and move it back and forth to remove the grinding
burr from the outside (Figure
24-51). Count the strokes and hone each side of the chisel an
equal amount.
To remove the
burr from the inside of the chisel, handhold the cone-shaped stone
straight in the end of the chisel and rotate the chisel back and
forth several times (Figure
24-52).
 |
Figure
24-52.
Use the cone-shaped grinding stone to remove the internal
burr.
|
Repeat the honing
on the bench stone with progressively finer stones along with the
internal honing with the cone-shaped stones until the tips and edges
are razor sharp.
Back
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Sharpening
Mortising Bits
Along with the
chisels, the bits must be periodically sharpened. They can be honed
with contoured slips when only slightly dull, but must be filed
and then honed after they become extremely dull. Clean the bit thoroughly
before attempting to file or hone it.
 |
Figure
24-53.
Construction details of a filing block for filing and honing
mortising bits.
|
Filing Mortising
Bits
Before the bits can be filed you must make a filing block that fits
in a vise (Figure
24-53). Use drill bits, not mortising bits, to drill the holes
in the filing block. Mortising bits flair out at the tip and will
drill an oversized hole.
Attach the filing
block to the inside of the vise jaws with double-sided tape. Close
the vise to within 1/16". Slide the mortising bit in the proper
hole with the cutting flutes of the bit parallel to the vise jaws
and no more than 1/4" above the top of the wooden blocks. Close
the vise to clamp the bit in position (Figure
24-54).
 |
Figure
24-54.
Position the mortising bit in the filing block and close the
vise.
|
Use a small
square or rectangular fine single or double cut file to sharpen
the cutting edges of the mortising bit. Filing should take only
a couple of strokes. Start with the inside surface of the two side
cutters. Follow the factory ground angle on the inside
of the bit.
File from the
back of the cutting edge to the front on one of the side cutters.
Count your strokes and repeat the same number of strokes on the
inside surface of the other side cutter (Figure
24-55).
 |
Figure
24-55.
File from the back of the cutting edge to the from on the
side cutters.
|
 |
Figure
24-56.
File the bottom relief angles from back to front.
|
In a similar
manner, hold the file on the "factory ground" bevel forming the
bottom relief angle of the bit and file this surface. Count the
strokes and repeat the same number of strokes on the other bottom
relief angle (Figure
24-56).
The final filing
steps are performed on the front of the cutting edge. This will
remove the burrs created by the previous filing steps. Hold the
file almost vertical against the front cutting bevel and push the
file down along the bevel (Figure
24-57). Count the strokes and repeat the same number of strokes
on the other front cutting bevel.
 |
Figure
24-57.File
vertically to sharpen the front cutting bevel.
|
Honing Mortising
Bits
In most cases the use of a fine enough file will sharpen the bit
sufficiently. If there is a burr on the cutting edge, or tearing
of the wood fibers during use, honing of the bit's cutting edge
will be necessary.
Use a fine contoured
slip stone. A triangular or a teardrop shape works well. These are
usually oil stones, rubber bonded abrasives, or diamond hones. All
work equally well.
 |
Figure
24-58.
Hone only the inside edges of the two side cutters.
|
Hone only the
inside edges of the two side cutters (Figure
24-58) and the two front cutting bevels (Figure
24-59). Do not attempt to hone the bottom relief angle on the
bottom of the bit. Honing is done in the same manner as filing.
Remember to count your strokes and hone each surface equally.
 |
Figure
24-59.
Hone the two front cutting bevels.
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Back
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