Horizontal
Boring & Doweling
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When the Mark V
is set up in the horizontal boring mode, it becomes a machine that
enables you to do a variety of standard and specialty operations easily
and with great accuracy. It allows you to make holes in large or long
pieces that you ordinarily couldn't drill. It also simplifies a number
of other operations normally performed with a hand-held drill, such
as drilling end grain or doweling boards edge-to-edge.
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Setup
and Features
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Figure
11-1.
The accessories that are used for horizontal boring operations
are the (A) worktable, (B) rip fence, (C) miter gauge, (D)
drill chuck, and (E) drill bit. The Model 510 is shown.
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Use the accessories
shown in Figure 11-1
for boring operations. To set up your Mark V in the horizontal boring
mode, follow the instructions in the Owners Manual that came with
your machine.
As you work
in the boring mode, you'll find that the Mark V is an extremely
capable horizontal boring machine. It has the same features as the
drill press mode plus these special features:
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Figure
11-2.
Without the rip fence you can bore as large or wide a workpiece
as you can safely and easily handle.
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With a 5-1/2"
long bit mounted in the chuck and using the rip fence as a backstop,
you can bore workpieces up to 30" long or wide (Model 500) or 55"
(Model 510 with the extension table system). Without the rip fence,
you can bore as large or wide a workpiece as you can safely and
easily control (Figure
11-2).
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Figure
11-3.
In the horizontal boring mode, the table tilts form 90-degrees
left to "0".
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With the table
tilt at 0 and the table height as low as it will go,
the table drops 2-3/8" beneath the center of the main spindle. This
allows you to bore to the center of stock up to 4-3/4" thick.
The table tilts
from 90° left to 0 in this mode (Figure
11-3).
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Horizontal
Boring Safety
Warning:
Before using the horizontal boring machine, read and understand
these important safety instructions:
Danger Zone-The
danger zone on the Mark V in the horizontal boring mode extends
3" all around the bit and chuck and 5" in front of the bit. Always
keep your fingers and hands out of the danger zone.
When you work
at the horizontal boring machine, be certain your hands and fingers
aren't in front of the bit when you advance the quill. Never reach
in toward or in front of the bit to clear away scraps. Turn off
the machine and let it come to a complete stop first.
- Wear proper
eye and ear protection.
- NEVER
leave the key in the chuck. Remove the key from the chuck IMMEDIATELY
after securing or removing the bit.
- Never
wear jewelry, gloves, ties, loose clothing or clothing with long
sleeves. Keep long hair tucked under a hat. Jewelry, gloves, ties,
clothing and hair could become entangled in the bit.
- Use the
rip fence as a backstop and hold the stock firmly against both
the worktable and the fence. If you can't use the rip fence, use
the miter gauge or clamp the stock to the worktable.
- Use only
accessories and bits designed to be mounted in power drills.
- Never
drill or bore metal freehand. Always clamp the metal to the worktable
and backup stock, or the rip fence and back-up stock.
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Bits
and Speeds
Because boring
is so similar to drilling, you can use the same bits and the same
speeds. To adjust the Mark V to the correct speed, refer to Table
11-1.
Table
11-1: Horizontal Boring Speed Chart |
Size
of Hole |
Hardwood |
Softwood |
1/4"
and less |
H (1600
RPM) |
I (1750
RPM) |
1/4"
to 1/2" |
F (1300
RPM) |
G (1450
RPM) |
1/2"
to 3/4" |
D (1050
RPM) |
E (1150
RPM) |
3/4"
to 1" |
B (850
RPM) |
C (950
RPM) |
Over 1" |
SLOW (700
RPM) |
A (750
RPM) |
Boring
metals (twist bits only)-Slow (700 RPM) |
Note:
These speeds are for 60 hz. operations. For 50 hz. operations,
refer to Table 1-1. |
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General
Boring
As you might
suspect, the procedure for boring is very similar to the procedure
for drilling. The basic types of boring operations are also similar--you
can either bore all the way through a piece or part way into it.
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Figure
11-4.
When boring through a workpiece, use the depth control to
keep the bit from biting through the scrap and into the fence.
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Boring Through
To bore through stock, first mount a bit in the chuck. Be sure that
you remove the chuck key. Mount the rip fence on the table to use
as a backstop, and adjust it so that it will hold the workpiece
1/4" to 1/2" away from the tip of the bit. To accurately position
the hole, adjust the table height. Caution: Place a long scrap
of wood against the rip fence to keep the bit from boring into the
fence after it goes through the workpiece. This scrap should be
3/4" to 1" thick and taller than the workpiece to properly back
up the piece when boring.
Extend the quill
so that the cutting flutes of the bit touch the scrap wood. Set
the depth control to approximately 1/8", and tighten the depth control
lock (Figure 11-4).
Then let the quill retract. When you bore the hole, the depth control
will keep the bit from biting through the scrap and into the fence.
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Figure
11-5.
Before boring, extend the quill with the machine turned off
to be sure the bit will bore a hole where you want it.
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Stand at the
front of the machine so that you can easily reach the power switch.
Place the workpiece on the table and position it in front of the
bit. Hold it firmly against the table and rip fence. Extend the
quill with the machine off to be sure the bit will bore a hole right
where you want it (Figure 11-5).
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Figure
11-6.
Feed the bit into the wood slowly and evenly, maintaining
a light, steady pressure. Stop when you feel the depth control
halt the quill.
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If the bit lines
up correctly, retract the quill. Turn the Mark V on and set the
speed dial. Feed the bit into the wood slowly and evenly (Figure
11-6). Don't force the bit; just maintain a light, steady pressure
as you do when drilling. When boring deep holes, it may be necessary
to retract the bit occasionally to clear chips from the hole.
When you feel
the depth control stop the quill, retract the bit. Turn the speed
dial to Slow, turn off the machine and let it come to
a complete stop, then remove the workpiece.
Boring Part
Way
To bore a hole only part way through a workpiece, extend the quill
until the cutting flutes of the bit just touch the workpiece. Set
the depth control at the desired depth and lock it in place. Bore
the holes you need. The depth control will stop the quill when the
bit reaches the proper depth in the stock. All the holes you bore
at any one depth control setting will be exactly the same depth.
Note: When you need to bore a number of holes all at the same height
(doweling boards edge-to-edge) on Model 500, use an accurate centerline
as a guide.
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Boring
End Grain
When boring
end grain, use the miter gauge to align the workpiece with the bit.
Adjust the safety grip to the thickness of the stock. Note: When
boring end grain, adjust the speed one to two letters slower than
you normally would. End grain is much tougher than edge grain.
If the workpiece
is less than 30" long (Model 500) or 55" long (Model 510), mount
the rip fence on either the table or the extension table and use
it as a backstop. If the piece is longer than 30" or 55"and you
have to work without a backstop, clamp the workpiece to the table.
Adjust the table
height and depth control as desired, make a four-point check. The
power plant, carriage, table height and table tilt locks must be
secure. As you feed the bit, don't be alarmed if it takes more pressure
than usual to bore the hole.
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Boring
At An Angle
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Figure
11-7.
To bore a hole at an angle, tilt the table use the fence as
a backstop or clamp the workpiece to the table.
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To bore a hole
at an angle, simply tilt the table at any angle you desire, from
900 left to 0, in toward the power plant. If possible,
mount the rip fence on the table and use it as a backstop(Figure
11-7). If the workpiece is very large, you'll have to clamp
it to the table to prevent it from slipping. Caution: If the
angle is acute and you're boring through the workpiece, remember
to protect both the table and the rip fence with a scrap block.
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Figure
11-8.
You can also bore at an angle by using the miter gauge. The
miter gauge stop rod can be used to keep the bit from pushing
the stock out of alignment.
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Another way
to bore at an angle, is to use the miter gauge. Figure
11-8 shows boring at an angle using the miter gauge stop rod
to keep the bit from pushing the stock out of alignment.
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Boring
For Dowels
Dowels are often
used to reinforce various types of joints. They even sometimes substitute
for the mortise and tenon joint. A more routine application is reinforcement
with dowels when narrow boards are joined edge-to-edge to form wide
workpieces. The combination of worktable surface, rip fence, and
depth control makes the hole-boring operation purely mechanical.
The edge distance of the holes is established by table height. The
holes do not have to be exactly centered, but must be in line with
each other. Mark the bad surface of each piece and be sure it faces
up when you bore.
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Figure
11-9.
Construction details of the hole-spacing guide. The text tells
how to accurately determine dimension "A". Click
on image for larger view.
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Hole spacing
can be controlled automatically if you make the hole-spacing guide
that is shown in Figure
11-9. The important part of the construction is getting the
guide pin holes exactly on the bit's horizontal centerline. To determine
dimension "A", assemble the guide and secure it to the way tubes.
Then, with a bit secured in the chuck, advance the quill so the
point of the bit will mark the guide. Use a square to mark this
point across the guide and, on this line, bore the holes for the
guide pin.
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Figure
11-10.
If you use a hole-spacing guide, you can do accurate work
without needing layout. After you bore each hole, engage the
pin. This positions the workpiece for the next hole. Spacing
is determined by placing the guide pin in the appropriate
hole in the guide.
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When you use
the guide, the guide pin engages the last hole that was bored and
so positions the workpiece for the next hole (Figure
11-10). Hole spacing is variable because of the set of holes
in the guide and, since the guide pin has a 3/8" diameter bushing
at one end (Figure
11-11), you can bore either 1/4"or 3/8" holes. By making an
assortment of guide pins, you can set up the guide for boring holes
of whatever diameter you wish.
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Figure
11-11.
Since the guide pin has a bushing of 3/8" diameter at
one end, you can bore either 1/4" or 1/2" holes.
You can make an assortment of pins for various hole sizes
if you wish.
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Figure
11-12.
When the workpiece is extra-long, use a clamp to secure it
to the table.
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Boring Dowel
Holes in Miters- Miter joints are often strengthened with dowels.
The important factor is for the holes to enter at right angles to
the cutline. The miter gauge holds the workpiece at the correct
angle; the rip fence, with a spacer attached, is set to suit the
length of the workpiece. The miter gauge safety grip holds the workpiece
securely in position as the hole is bored. When the workpiece is
extra-long, use the miter gauge to hold it at the correct angle
and a clamp to secure it to the table (Figure
11-12).
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Forming
a Pegged Joint
This is an excellent
joint to use on drawer front to drawer side connections since it
has the characteristics of the dovetail, but it is much easier to
accomplish. First, cut the side and front of the drawer to size
and then set the pieces in position as shown in Figure
11-13A. The miter gauge positions the work square to the spindle;
the fence acts as a backup; and the table height is adjusted for
edge distance. Bore the first hole and insert a dowel in it (Figure
11-13B) so the parts will be held in correct position for the
holes that follow (Figure
11-13C). This method can be used for box corners as well as
drawers (Figure 11-14).
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Figure
11-13.
(A) When preparing to bore holes for the pegged joint, cut
the side and front of the drawer side connections and position
them. (B) Insert a dowel in the first hole so the pieces will
be held in the correct position for the holes that follow.
(C) Continue boring, controlling the depth of the holes with
the depth control. Click on image to see larger view.
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Figure
11-14.
The pegged joint may also be used for box corners. Click on
image to see larger view.
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Boring
Odd Shapes
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Figure
11-15.
An example of a guide used for boring odd-shaped pieces. Click
on image to see larger view.
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An odd-shaped
piece, like a curved segment, can be set up for boring by simply
positioning it correctly and then clamping it in place on the table.
However, if you have many similar pieces to bore, you can make a
guide that will place each piece in exactly the right position.
This lets you work more accurately since it eliminates the possibility
of human error. An example guide, shown just to demonstrate the
concept, is shown in Figure
11-15.
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Pivot
Boring
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Figure
11-16.
Using the pivot method to bore radial holes into the edge
of a circular workpiece.
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Radial holes
into the edge of circular workpieces can be bored accurately by
working as shown in Figure
11-16. This procedure is known as pivot boring. A strip of wood,
sized to fit the table slot and with a short nail driven through
it at an approximate midpoint, is clamped to the table so the nail
is aligned with the spindle's center. The workpiece, marked off
in degrees for the holes that are required, is centered over the
pivot nail and rotated to position it for each hole. Set the depth
control to limit quill extension.
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Concentric
Boring
A round or a
square workpiece, if it is not too long, can be positioned for accurate
concentric holes by using the miter gauge and the fence as shown
in Figure 11-17.
The table height is adjusted so the drill point will be on the workpiece's
horizontal centerline. The miter gauge, locked in place, maintains
the workpiece's alignment; the fence serves as a backup.
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Figure
11-17.
A simple way to set up for boring concentric holes.
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Figure
11-18.
A V-block can also be used when doing concentric boring.
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Figure
11-19.
A V-block is used to hold the workpiece as shown here. Use
the fence as a stop block and use a spacer when the workpiece
is too short to reach the fence.
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Another method
requires the use of a V-block (Figure
11-18) which cradles the workpiece as demonstrated in Figure
11-19. When the workpiece is shorter than the V-block, use a
length of scrap wood between the workpiece and the fence. The V-block
can also be used to hold square workpieces (Figure
11-20).
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Figure
11-20.
The V-block can also be used to position a square workpiece
for concentric boring.
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Figure
11-21.
An extension V-block is used for extra-long workpieces.
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For extra-long
workpieces, use an extension V-block as shown in Figure
11-21. The V-block is also used to grip short workpieces (Figure
11-22). The V-block, held in place by being clamped to the locked
miter gauge or clamped to the extension table, is positioned so
the vertical centerline of the spindle bisects the V.
Table height is adjusted in relation to the diameter of the workpiece.
Small auxiliary V's are used when the workpiece is too small to
be gripped by the basic V-block. Figure
11-23 shows how the extension V-block and the auxiliary V's
are made.
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Figure
11-22.
The extension V-block can also be used to grip short workpieces.
Auxiliary V's are used when the stock's diameter is too small
to be gripped by the basic V-block.
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Figure
11-23.
Construction details of the (A) extension V-block and (B)
the auxiliary V's. The shape needed is actually a rabbet cut.
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Boring
Extra-Deep Holes
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Figure
11-24.
Using an extension bit to form an extra-deep hole.
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Holes that are
deeper than you can form by using a conventional bit can be bored
with an extension bit (Figure
11-24), a special tool that in many cases is no more than a
regular drill bit that has been brazed onto a rod. The procedure
is to bore to the quill's maximum extension and then, after retracting
the quill, to move either the table or the power plant so the drill
will reach the bottom of the hole. Thus you can deepen the hole
by again extending the quill. Since the rod part of the extension
doesn't have flutes, you must retract frequently to clear waste
chips from the hole.
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