Bandsaw
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The bandsaw
gets its name from the continuous loop or "band" formed by the flexible
steel blade. This blade cuts with a downward motion, toward the
table. Because it cuts continuously, you'll find the bandsaw is
one of the fastest cutting tools in your shop.
The bandsaw
will perform a wide variety of workshop operations. The two most
common uses are cutting curves or irregular shapes in wood and resawing
(slicing thin boards from thick ones). But you can also make crosscuts,
rips, bevels, miters, compound curves, duplicate parts, and many
other special cuts.
You can also
cut materials other than wood. With the proper blade installed,
the bandsaw will cut plastic, plastic laminates, particle board,
and even soft, nonferrous metals such as copper, brass, and aluminum.
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Setup
and Features
 
|
Figure
14-1.
The Bandsaw can be mounted on (A) the MARK V or (B) on a Shopsmith
Power Stand.
|
To set up your
bandsaw, follow the instructions in the Owners Manual that came
with your bandsaw.
As you work
with the bandsaw, you'll find that it has several special features:
- The bandsaw
can be mounted on the Mark V or a Shopsmith Power Stand (Figure
14-1).
- The cutoff
capacity is 10-1/2"
-the distance across the machine's throat. However, with the blade
offset 30° right, you can cut off (freehand) any length of stock
up to 3-7/8" wide. The bandsaw will cut stock up to 6" thick.
- The bandsaw
accepts continuous-loop blades 72" long and 1/16" to 5/8" wide.
Bandsaw blades are mounted on two wheels, 11" in diameter. Both
wheels are covered with rubber tires to protect the teeth of the
blades and provide traction. The idler (upper) wheel revolves
on needle bearings, while the drive (lower) wheel revolves on
sealed ball bearings. The blades are tensioned by adjusting the
position of the idler wheel.
- The table
surface is 11-3/4" (front to back) by 12" (right to left). The
table can be tilted from "0" to 45° right (away from the frame).
It has an adjustable positive stop at "0." If this stop is removed,
it can be tilted an additional 5° left.
-
 |
Figure
14-2.
The bandsaw/disc sander is a logical dual-purpose setup,
but the speeds used must be that of the bandsaw, not the
disc sander.
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The bandsaw
mounts on the power mount end of the Mark V. Warning: You can
run the bandsaw together with a disc or drum sander (Figure
14-2) as long as you remember that the dual setup must run
at bandsaw speeds.
- You can supply
extra support for long stock by setting up the Mark V worktable
and the rip fence as shown in Figure
14-3. Since the carriage can be positioned anywhere between
the power plant and the end of the machine, you can adjust to
supply support where it is most needed.
-
 |
Figure
14-3.
You can get extra support for long workpieces by using
the MARK V worktable and rip fence this way.
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Bandsaw
Blades
Your bandsaw
will accept any blade 1/16" to 5/8" wide and 72" long (within 1/2").
Choosing the right blade for the job will depend on:
- the kind
of material you're about to cut
- the thickness
of the stock
- the bandsaw
operation you're about to perform
- the intricacy
of the design
Wider blades
are stiffer, so the cut is straighter. Larger teeth and deeper gullets
help clear the sawdust in a deep cut. Wider blades are the best
choice for heavy resawing or sawing thick stock. Narrower blades
are better suited for intricate work. The narrower the blade is,
the tighter the radius it will cut. Choose narrow blades when you
need to cut complex designs. To help select the blade that will
work best for any given operation, refer to Table 14-1.
Table
14-1: Bandsaw Blades and Speeds |
Characteristics |
Recommended
Use |
Recommended
Speed** |
1/16"
Woodcutting Blade* - 24 teeth per inch, 1/32" minimum
turning radius |
For
extremely fine detail work only. Use for wood and plywood up
to 3" thick. Not for heavy-duty cuts or resawing. Note:
Set the tension scale at 1/8" setting. |
A
(750 RPM, 2160 FPR) for hardwood. B (850 RPM, 2450 FPM) for
softwood. |
1/8"
Woodcutting Blade - 7.5 teeth per inch, 1/4" minimum
turning radius |
For
very fine detail work only. Use for wood and plywood up to 3"
thick. Not for heavy-duty cuts or resawing. |
C
(950 RPM, 2750 FPM) for hardwood. D (1050 RPM, 3000 FPM) for
softwood |
1/4"
Combination Blade - 6 teeth per inch, 3/4" minimum
turning radius |
A
good general purpose blade for wood, plywood, plastics, particle
board, and soft non-ferrous metals. Limit resawing to stock
4" thick, metalwork to stock 1/4" thick. This is
the blade that comes with your bandsaw. |
B
(850 RPM, 2450 FPM) for hardwood. C (950 RPM, 2750 FPM) for
softwood. Slow (700 RPM, 2000 FPM) for other materials. |
1/2"
Combination Blade - 4 teeth per inch, 2" minimum turning
radius |
For
heavy-duty cutting fo wood, plywood, plastics, particle board,
and soft, non-ferrous metals. Suitable for resawing stock up
to 6" thick, and metalwork in stock up to 1/2" thick. |
Slow
(700 RPM, 2000 FPM) for hardwood, softwood, and other materials. |
5/8"
Woodcutting Blade - 3 teeth per inch |
For
heavy-duty resawing. Efficiently handles wood up to 6"
thick. Straight cuts only. Note: Set the tension scale at the
1/2" setting. |
Slow
(700 RPM, 2000 FPM) for hardwood and softwood |
Several
blade manufacturers make bandsaw blade stock for a variety
of special purposes -- intricate scrollwork, cutting iron
pipe, etc. If you need a special blade, you can have it made
at a well-equipped commercial saw shop. Use only high-quality
blade stock 1/16" - 1/2" wide. Be sure that the
finished blade is 72" long, plus or minus 1/2" and
that the weld is ground perfectly smooth.
*Caution:
Do not use 1/16" blade without special guide blocks.
Failure to use special guide blocks will ruin the blade and
damage the standard guide blocks. **Note: these speeds are
for 60 hz. operations.
|
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Safety
Warning:
Before using the bandsaw, read and understand these important safety
instructions:
Danger Zone-The
bandsaw danger zone is 3" out from the blade in all directions.
Use a push stick
whenever you need to maneuver a workpiece inside the danger zone.
This safety device helps protect your hands and fingers. A push
stick also gives you better control when you're working near the
blade.
Always replace
the cover on your bandsaw before you turn it on--never operate the
machine without the protective cover. And remember there is a blade
guard attached to the upper blade guide. This guard automatically
covers the unused portion of the blade when the guides are adjusted
properly. Always adjust the upper blade guides to a maximum of 1/4"
above the stock. Not only is this safer; it gives the blade better
support.
- Wear proper
eye and ear protection and a dust mask.
- Do not remove
stock or scraps until the blade has stopped.
- Maintain
proper adjustment of blade tension, blade guides and bearings.
- Keep the
upper guide adjusted to a maximum of 1/4" above the stock.
- Never reach
close to the blade or under the table while the machine is running.
- Hold stock
firmly against the table.
- Never attempt
a turn tighter than the blade will allow. Otherwise, the blade
might break or jam.
- Use a push
stick to finish a resawing or ripping cut.
- Support long
stock with a roller stand.
- Hold round
stock in a V-block.
- Never cut
extremely small stock. Cut small components from larger stock.
- If the blade
breaks, turn off the machine and stand away until it stops.
- Whenever
you mount and operate the bandsaw on the Mark V, secure the accessory
mount lock, power plant lock and the bandsaw mounting tubes.
- Never turn
on the machine with stock pressed against the blade.
- If you hear
a ticking sound or unusual noise, stop the bandsaw immediately.
A ticking sound often means a damaged blade.
- If you're
using a Shopsmith Power Stand, be sure you're using the proper
pulley and belt combination and that the pulley and belt are properly
guarded.
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Speeds
Before you begin
any bandsaw operation, turn on the Mark V, set the speed according
to Table 14-1, and let the bandsaw come up to speed. The speed of
a bandsaw is measured by how fast the blade travels, or "Feet Per
Minute (FPM)."
The speed is
determined by the blade and the material. Generally, slow speeds
are used with wide blades to cut hard, thick woods and dense materials.
High speeds are used with narrow blades in soft materials.
Table
14-1: Bandsaw Blades and Speeds |
Characteristics |
Recommended
Use |
Recommended
Speed** |
1/16"
Woodcutting Blade* - 24 teeth per inch, 1/32" minimum
turning radius |
For
extremely fine detail work only. Use for wood and plywood up
to 3" thick. Not for heavy-duty cuts or resawing. Note:
Set the tension scale at 1/8" setting. |
A
(750 RPM, 2160 FPR) for hardwood. B (850 RPM, 2450 FPM) for
softwood. |
1/8"
Woodcutting Blade - 7.5 teeth per inch, 1/4" minimum
turning radius |
For
very fine detail work only. Use for wood and plywood up to 3"
thick. Not for heavy-duty cuts or resawing. |
C
(950 RPM, 2750 FPM) for hardwood. D (1050 RPM, 3000 FPM) for
softwood |
1/4"
Combination Blade - 6 teeth per inch, 3/4" minimum
turning radius |
A
good general purpose blade for wood, plywood, plastics, particle
board, and soft non-ferrous metals. Limit resawing to stock
4" thick, metalwork to stock 1/4" thick. This is
the blade that comes with your bandsaw. |
B
(850 RPM, 2450 FPM) for hardwood. C (950 RPM, 2750 FPM) for
softwood. Slow (700 RPM, 2000 FPM) for other materials. |
1/2"
Combination Blade - 4 teeth per inch, 2" minimum turning
radius |
For
heavy-duty cutting fo wood, plywood, plastics, particle board,
and soft, non-ferrous metals. Suitable for resawing stock up
to 6" thick, and metalwork in stock up to 1/2" thick. |
Slow
(700 RPM, 2000 FPM) for hardwood, softwood, and other materials. |
5/8"
Woodcutting Blade - 3 teeth per inch |
For
heavy-duty resawing. Efficiently handles wood up to 6"
thick. Straight cuts only. Note: Set the tension scale at the
1/2" setting. |
Slow
(700 RPM, 2000 FPM) for hardwood and softwood |
Several
blade manufacturers make bandsaw blade stock for a variety
of special purposes -- intricate scrollwork, cutting iron
pipe, etc. If you need a special blade, you can have it made
at a well-equipped commercial saw shop. Use only high-quality
blade stock 1/16" - 1/2" wide. Be sure that the
finished blade is 72" long, plus or minus 1/2" and
that the weld is ground perfectly smooth.
*Caution:
Do not use 1/16" blade without special guide blocks.
Failure to use special guide blocks will ruin the blade and
damage the standard guide blocks. **Note: these speeds are
for 60 hz. operations.
|
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Basic
Bandsawing
 |
Figure
14-4.
Adjust the upper blade guide so that it's a maximum of 1/4"
above the workpiece.
|
Adjust the height
of the upper blade guide so that it's no more than 1/4" above the
work (Figure 14-4).
Then think through the cut before you turn on the machine. Know
where you'll put your hands as you feed the stock into the blade;
make sure the stock won't be blocked by the bandsaw frame (Figure
14-5). When you're satisfied that you can make the cut safely and
without interference, turn on the power, set the speed dial to the
proper speed and wait until the machine comes up to speed.


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Figure
14-5.
(A) Visualize the cut before you begin and you can avoid the
kind of throat interference that is occurring here. (B) Started
this way, the cut can be made in one continuous pass.
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Take a comfortable
stance in front and slightly to the left of the blade, and start
your cut. As you work, you may shift more toward the center. Warning:
Stand on the left side of the blade. If the blade breaks it may
fly to the right. Slowly feed the stock into the blade. Use both
hands to guide the stock and keep it pressed firmly down against
the table.
As you work,
watch out for several problems that may cause the bandsaw to bog
down or produce an inaccurate cut:
- feeding the
stock too fast
- side pressure
(against the flat of the blade)
- trying to
turn a radius too small for the blade
- excessive
blade "lead"
- worn or dull
blades.
Don't force
the work, but you can feed fairly rapidly since the machine cuts
quickly. It's alright to pause in the cut for a moment, but try
not to remain stationary for too long. The blade will heat up in
the kerf, burning both the stock and the blade. Feed the stock directly
against the teeth, even when cutting curves. To determine if the
blade is the right size for the curve, refer to Table 14-1.
If the blade
continually wanders off the pattern, there are several possible
causes: The blade guides may be improperly adjusted. Or you could
be pressing against the side of the blade. You may also be trying
to cut a curve that's too tight for the blade. If the blade wanders
or "leads" just to one side or the other, the teeth are improperly
set. To correct the set of the teeth, refer to the Bandsaw Owners
Manual.
If the machine
bogs down, stop a moment to let the bandsaw catch up. Check to see
if the blade is twisting in the guides. If it is, you may be pressing
against the side of the blade or trying to turn a corner too tight
for the blade. If the guides, you're probably feeding the stock
too fast. Once the bandsaw is back up to running speed, feed the
stock a little slower. If the problem persists, check the blade
to see if it's worn. Replace dull or worn blades immediately.
If the blade
jams on a scrap, turn off the machine and unplug the power before
you attempt to clear the scrap. If the blade breaks, move around
to the left side of the machine and turn off the power. Wait until
the wheels come to a complete stop before removing the cover and
the broken blade.
Basic Techniques
Getting a smooth, accurate cut begins by guiding the stock carefully
with both hands, feeding the stock forward against the teeth at
the proper rate, and not turning corners too tight for the blade.
Here are a few additional suggestions to help you get the best results:
Cutting Outside
the Pattern Line-For precision work, cut slightly outside the
line--in the waste stock--then sand to the final dimension with
a disc sander, belt sander, strip sander or drum sander. Not only
does this technique make it easier to be accurate, the finished
edge is smoother. The mill marks left by the bandsaw are removed
when you sand up to the line.
 |
Figure
14-6.
Break complicated cuts up into simple curves and lines.
|
Breaking
Up a Cut-Break complicated cuts up into simple curves and lines.
Study your pat-tern to see how you might cut it in several easy
passes. Don't be afraid to cut into the waste stock and loop around
in order to reposition the blade at a better angle to the pattern
line (Figure 14-6).
 |
Figure
14-7.
You may have to backtract with the blade in order to cut some
patterns. Plan ahead and avoid backing out of cuts.
|
Backtracking-In
order to break up intricate patterns into simple cuts, you may have
to cut in to a point, then back the blade out and cut from another
angle (Figure 14-7).
This is a safe technique if done carefully, but there is always
a danger that you may bind the blade, pull it out of the guides
and off the wheels. Sawdust can also build up behind the blade,
preventing you from backing it out. To backtrack out of a cut longer
than 1", turn off the machine and let it come to a complete stop
before backtracking. If you can, avoid backtracking in long cuts
altogether.
 |
Figure
14-8. Round or square relief openings can facilitate making
internal cuts. When possible, plan the openings as part of
the design.
|
Drilling
Relief Openings-A few well-placed relief openings will give
you sufficient turning room to make tight cuts. Square-cornered
relief openings can be formed with mortising bits and chisels; round
holes, made with drill bits, can be used when the blade can't turn
the radius required. Sometimes, corner holes are used just to make
bandsaw cutting easier; the radius of the corner is exactly right
because of the bit size that is used. In all cases, be sure the
layout for the corners, square or round, is accurately done to conform
to the design (Figure
14-8).
 |
Figure
14-9.
Relief openings give you turning room to cut tight internal
corners. Click on image for larger view.
|
Keep in mind
that making relief holes is one of the handiest techniques for cutting
intricate scrollwork (Figure
14-9). Drill these holes slightly inside the pattern line in
the waste stock.
Making Relief
Cuts-Radial or tangential relief cuts make it possible for you
to cut a curve smaller than the blade can normally turn. Make radial
cuts toward the pattern line and backtrack out (Figure
14-10). Then cut the desired curve. As the blade meets up with
each radial cut, a little piece of waste stock will fall away. This,
in turn, provides more room for the blade to turn.
 |
Figure
14-10.
To cut tight external curves, make several radial cuts before
you cut the pattern line.
|
 |
Figure
14-11.
You can aslo cut tight external curves by making a series
of tangential cuts as shown.
|
Make tangential
cuts by cutting on the pattern line until the blade starts to bind
slightly, then run off at a tangent to the curve. Cut completely
through the waste stock to the edge of the workpiece, removing a
small amount of stock. Start cutting the pattern line again where
you ran off at a tangent (Figure
14-11). Repeat this process until you've cut the desired curve.
Remember that
radial cuts are useful when cutting both internal and external curves.
Tangential cuts can only be used on external curves.
 |
Figure
14-12.
To cut corners and curves in tight spots, feed the workpiece
very lightly agains the blade and let the teeth nibble away.
|
"Nibbling"-There
are times when you'll need to cut a detail in a pattern that's too
small to use any of the techniques described previously. For these
extra-fine jobs, feed the stock very, lightly against the blade
and let the teeth "nibble" it away (Figure
14-12). This is handy when you need to cut tiny corners and
curves.
 |
Figure
14-13.
Wise planning of the layout can often make it possible to
join pieces to form a particular shape. It is also a way to
economize with material.
|
Layout-Many
of the methods described in connection with scroll sawing and jigsawing
can be used to minimize layout and waste when bandsawing. A specific
application, which is typical, is the forming of acurved rail (Figure
14-13). Two pieces that result from a single cut are joined
to form the arch shape.
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Crosscutting
 |
Figure
14-14.
By mounting the miter gauge in the table slot that runs parallel
to the flat of the blade, you can crosscut and miter.
|
As mentioned
earlier, the table slots allow you to use the miter gauge with safety
grip for many bandsaw operations. By mounting the miter gauge in
the slot that's parallel to the flat of the blade, you can make
crosscuts and miter cuts similar to the cuts made on a table saw
(Figure 14-14).
Your cut-off capacity, however, is limited to 10-1/2 ". Any longer
than that and the stock will strike the bandsaw frame.
To increase
the cutoff capacity when crosscutting, you can offset the blade.
When the blade is off-set, you can cut off any length of stock that
you can safely handle, as long as the stock is not more than 3-7/8"
wide. However, when the blade is offset, you must crosscut without
the miter gauge.
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Ripping
 |
Figure
14-15.
Lock the miter gauge with an extension attached in the table
slot that runs perpendicular to the flat of the blade, and
use it as a rip fence for ripping operations.
|
By locking the
miter gauge in the table slot that runs perpendicular to the flat
of the blade, you can use the miter gauge as a rip fence (Figure
14-15). Secure the miter gauge in the slot by turning the Allen
screw in the center of the miter gauge bar clockwise. This presses
the sides of the bar out against the sides of the slot. We also
suggest you put a single thickness of paper in the table slot near
the miter bar locking screw, as an extra precaution to keep the
miter gauge from shifting during ripping operations.

|
Figure
14-16.
(A) A standard miter gauge extension makes a useful fence
for average ripping operations. The locking miter gauge is
what makes this and similar setups possible. (B) A longer
extension provides more support when ripping extra-long workpieces.
(C) A higher extension provides needed support for resawing
operations.
|
If you need
more support for the workpiece, attach a miter gauge extension to
the miter gauge. The standard extension, mounted on the miter gauge
(Figure 14-16A),
is suitable for normal ripping operations. A longer extension (Figure
14-16B) provides needed support when handling long stock, while
a higher extension (Figure
14-16C) will help you work more accurately when doing resawing.
The sizes of all three extensions and the mounting holes they need
are detailed in Figure
14-17. You may also want to use a roller stand or the Mark V
table and rip fence to help support the workpiece on either the
infeed or outfeed side of the bandsaw.
 |
Figure
14-17.
Construction details of three miter gauge extensions. Click
on image for larger view.
|
When you're
using the miter gauge as a rip fence, pay particular attention to
blade lead-the tendency of the blade to drift off the cutting line
in one direction. To correct blade lead, first try readjusting the
blade guides or angling the miter gauge slightly. If this doesn't
work, refer to the Bandsaw Owners Manual to correct blade lead.
If after trying both of these remedies blade lead remains a problem,
slow down the feed and give the blade more time to make the cut
and stay straight.
 |
Figure
14-18.
Ripping will be accurate if you feed at a reasonable speed
and keep the workpiece against the miter gauge extension.
Ripping against an extension will be a problem if the blade
has lead.
|
When ripping,
feed the stock very slowly and be sure to maintain the extension-to-work
contact throughout the pass. You can use your hands as shown in
Figure 14-18;
or, if there is enough room between the extension and the blade,
use your left hand on the extension much as if you were doing a
rip cut on the table saw. But, in any case, be sure to keep a push
stick handy during ripping operations and use it to feed the stock
during the last few inches. Also, if you force the cut, it is likely
that the stock will move away from the fence or the blade will wander
off the cutline. Extension-guided ripping won't work if the blade
has lead. You must eliminate the lead, change to another blade,
or make the cut freehand.
On a few operations,
such as sawing or ripping thick stock with a thin blade, it may
be necessary to increase the blade tension slightly beyond the normal
setting. However, this increased tension will shorten the life of
your blade. Always remember to reset the tension screw when you
no longer need the extra tension.
If accuracy
is not critical or the blade is showing excessive lead, you can
also make rip cuts freehand. Just remember not to work with pieces
so small that they bring your fingers inside the danger zone. Use
a push stick instead.
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Resawing
Resawing thick
stock into thin boards is one of the bandsaw's most useful functions.
This operation cannot be performed efficiently on any other home
workshop power tool.
To get a good
resaw, first joint the bottom edge of the stock. Also make sure
the surface that will rest against the extension is as smooth and
flat as possible. If the board is cupped, the cup should face the
extension. Check the squareness of the table to the blade and adjust
it, if necessary- just 1° to 2° out of square will make the resawn
board noticeably uneven.
 |
Figure
14-19.
Use a high miter gauge extension when resawing. Feed the workpiece
very slowly, especially if you are using a blade that is less
than 1/2" wide. Narrower blades can be used, but they
are more likely to "bow" in the cut.
|
Since resawing
usually involves stock several inches thick and many feet long,
it's a good idea to use a long, high miter gauge extension. Clamp
a feather board to the table to help hold the stock up on edge and
flat against the extension. Use a push block to move the stock (Figure
14-19).
Place the miter
gauge in the table slot that runs perpendicular to the flat of the
blade, and lock it in place so that the fence is 1/32" to 1/16"
farther away from the blade than the desired thickness of the resawn
board. (This extra distance will give you room to surface the wood
after it's been resawn.) Also clamp the feather board to the bandsaw
table so that it will press against the stock just in front of the
blade. Always use a push stick to finish a resawing cut.
If you're using
a 1/4" blade for this operation, increase the tension to the 3/8"
mark on the blade tension scale.
 |
Figure
14-20.
You can prepare a workpiece for resawing by making table saw
cuts. The kerfs help to buide the blade and they reduce the
amount of materials on which the blade must work.
|
As you make
the cut, hold the workpiece firmly against the extension. Take your
time and don't rush the cut. If you rush, the blade may follow the
annual rings in the wood, giving you an uneven cut. As with ripping,
blade lead can also ruin your cut. If the blade tends to wander,
even when you feed the stock slowly, readjust the blade guides or
the angles of the miter gauge. If this doesn't work, refer to the
Bandsaw Owners Manual to correct blade lead. If none of these remedies
correct the problem, use another blade for resawing.
 |
Figure
14-21.
The bandsaw's impressive depth of cut can be utilized to cut
square stock round or prepare stock for lathe turning. Small
circles require a narrow blade, so feed very carefully to
keep the blade from bowing.
|
Many woodworkers
prepare stock for resawing by first kerfing the material on the
table saw as shown in Figure
14-20. The kerfs do double-duty; they act as a guide for the
bandsaw blade and they reduce the amount of material through which
the blade must cut.
It isn't resawing,
in the strict sense, but the bandsaw's ability to cut through thick
stock can be utilized to cut square stock round or prepare material
for lathe turning (Figure
14-21). Cutting stock this way considerably reduces the amount
of waste that must be cut away with lathe chisels.
 |
Figure
14-22.
Thinning out stock so it can be bent is a type of resawing.
How much of the sotck's thickness you leave depends on how
sharp a bend you must make.
|
Thinning
Out-Thinning out is a type of resawing procedure that is used
to reduce the thickness of stock in particular areas so the material
will be easy to bend. Mark the section to be thinned on one edge
of the stock. The section should be 1" or so longer than the bend
you plan. Make the two end cuts first. Then, starting from any point
between them, make an oblique approach to the straight line and
continue the pass until it meets the first cut. Turn the stock end-for-end
and complete the cut (Figure
14-22). Figure
14-23 shows an example of the kind of bending that can be done
by using the thinning-out method. The thickness of the material
that will be left after the cutting will depend on how sharp the
bend must be. Bends made this way should, be reinforced with glue
blocks.
 |
Figure
14-23.
An example of how stock can be bent after it is thinned out.
The thinned sections will be weak and should be reinforced
with glue blocks.
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Bevel
Cuts
 |
Figure
14-24.
The miter gauge can be used to guide and support the stock
when making bevel cuts.
|
To make bevel
cuts, simply tilt the table to the desired angle and secure the
tilt lock. If the accuracy of the cutting angle is critical, check
the tilt with a protractor or drafting triangle.
You can make
bevel cuts freehand, or you can use the miter gauge to guide and
support the stock. After the table is adjusted to the proper tilt,
lock the miter gauge in the table slot that runs perpendicular to
the flat of the blade, so that the miter gauge is on the right or
downhill side of the blade facing up. This will keep the stock from
sliding down the table while mak-ing the cut (Figure
14-24).
Adjust the upper
blade guide so that it's as close to the stock as possible. The
left or uphill side of the stock should barely clear the left guide
block.
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Figure
14-25.
This is how to use the V-block arrangement to cut chamfers.
The table tilt will determine the angle of the chamfer. The
miter gauge with an extension supports the stock.
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As you cut,
hold the stock firmly on the table and against the miter gauge.
If you're making this cut freehand, be careful not to let the stock
slip downhill. This will put side pressure on the blade, making
it hard for you to follow the pattern line and possibly bogging
down the bandsaw.
Use the same
setup for cutting triangular glue blocks or for forming chamfers
(Figure 14-25).
The angle of the chamfer is determined by how much you tilt the
table.
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Round
Stock
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Figure
14-26.
A tilted table and a miter gauge with an extension create
a perfect V-block. Always place the miter gauge so it is on
the down side of the table.
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Cutting round
stock requires extra caution because its shape makes the workpiece
difficult to hold. Warning: The teeth of the blade can catch
the stock, spinning it out of your hands, or worse, dragging your
hands into the blade. For this reason, round stock should always
be supported and guided with the miter gauge or a V-block.
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Figure
14-27.
Use the miter gauge to corsscut round stock. By attaching
a stop block to the left side of the table, you can accurately
cut duplicate lengths.
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If you're ripping
a round piece, such as a lathe turning, use the miter gauge with
an extension locked in a tilted table to form a "V" (Figure
14-26). When cross-cutting round stock, use the miter gauge
to push the stock into the blade. Hold the stock firmly while you're
working. By clamping a stop block to the left side of the table,
you can cut duplicate lengths of dowel. Make sure the back edge
of the stop block does not extend beyond the front edge of the blade
(Figure 14-27).
Warning: Be careful when making the cut because the blade guide
must be raised to accommodate the miter gauge face. This exposes
the blade.
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Figure
14-28.
When cutting spiral grooves in dowels and rounds, the table
tilt determines the "pitch" of the spiral and the
miter gauge determines the depth of cut.
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Figure
14-28 demonstrates a setup that can be used to form spiral grooves
in dowels or larger rounds. The spiraling can be done on dowels
before they are cut into lengths for use in glue joints, or it may
be done just for decorative purposes. Tilt the table from 10° to
20° depending on the "pitch" you want, and lock the miter gauge
in position to control the depth of cut. Slowly rotate the dowel
to make the cut. This is a good way to mark stock for spirals that
you handshape on the lathe.
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Figure
14-29.
Construction details of a special V-block. Click on image
for larger view.
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Special V-Block-If
you make a special V-block, you can use the bandsaw to accurately
form half-round or quarter-round moldings from dowel, rounds, or
from pieces that you have shaped on the lathe. Figure
14-29 shows how to make the V-block. The V-block guide that
rides in the kerf keeps the stock aligned throughout the pass (Figure
14-30). Be sure to saw the kerf exactly on the centerline of
the V. Position the V-block by moving it past the blade and then
installing the guide. If the guide isn't a tight fit, use a C-clamp
at the base of the block to close the kerf about the guide. Make
certain to clamp the V-block so it is parallel to the edge of the
table (Figure 14-31).
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Figure
14-30.
The guide rides in the kerf and keeps the stock perfectly
aligned throughout the pass.
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 |
Figure
14-31.
Be sure the V-block is clamped in a position that is parallel
to the table's edge. Lathe-turned pieces, as well as simple
rounds, can be halved, even quartered.
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Resawing
Duplicate Parts
 |
Figure
14-32.
To resaw duplicates: (A) Draw the pattern on a thick piece
of stock. (B) Cut out the shape and then resaw it to make
the duplicates.
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Because the
bandsaw cuts easily through thick stock, it's possible to preshape
a block of wood and then resaw it into separate pieces that will
be duplicates of the original design.
The shape of
the piece that is needed is drawn on one surface of the thick stock.
The shape is then cut out on the bansaw. The shaped piece is then
resawn (Figure 14-32).
Follow the procedures for "Resawing" earlier in this chapter. It's
generally a good idea to leave enough extra stock so that you can
sand the resawn pieces smooth.
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Pad
Sawing
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Figure
14-33.
Pad sawing is another way to produce many similar pieces.
The pad of individual pieces is held together with nails or
with tape.
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Pad sawing is
another way to quickly and accurately produce multiple pieces that
have the same shape. The technique consists of holding together
a pad of separate pieces, either by driving nails in waste areas
or by using enough double-sided tape to do the job. The pattern
of the part you need is drawn on the op piece of stock (Figure
14-33). The pad is then cut as if it were a solid block of wood
(Figure 14-34).
After cutting, the parts separate into individual pieces, all of
them exactly alike.
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Figure
14-34.
The pad is cut as if it were a solid block of wood.
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Pattern
Sawing
 |
Figure
14-35.
This is the setup to use for doing patten sawing. The front
edge of the guide block can be straight or round depending
on the shape of the workpiece you will be cutting. Click image
for larger view.
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Pattern sawing
is a method of working so that a pattern, shaped like the part that
is needed, can be used as a guide to cut duplicate pieces. This
eliminates the need to do layout on individual pieces and assures
exact duplication.
The technique
is detailed in Figure 14-35. The
guide block, clamped to the table, is undercut at one end to permit
passage of the material being cut and is notched to accommodate
the blade's width and thickness. The workpiece, cut to rough size
and shape, is held to the underside of the pattern with short brads
that protrude from the pattern just enough to catch the workpiece.
Sawing is done
by guiding the pattern along the edge of the guide block. Since
the blade is positioned by the notch in the guide block, the work
is automatically cut to the shape of the pattern.
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Sawing
Parallel Convex Curves
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Figure
14-36.
This is the setup to use for doing patten sawing. The front
edge of the guide block can be straight or round depending
on the shape of the workpiece you will be cutting.
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Some duplicate
curve cutting can be accomplished by using the miter gauge extension
setup as a guide. The workpiece is cut out on the bandsaw. Then,
after the edge has been sanded, the workpiece is fed past the blade
(Figure 14-36).
The most important rules are: Feed the workpiece slowly and keep
the arc of the workpiece tangent to the extension all through the
pass. If you don't maintain the correct contact between workpiece
and extension, the blade will surely move off the line of cut. Be
sure the blade is sharp and has no lead.
 |
Figure
14-37.
Irregular parallel curve cutting can be accomplished this
way. Be sure the first cut that you do freehand is sanded
smooth. Click image for larger view.
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You can't work
with an extension if the workpiece has an irregular or reverse curve.
For such work you need the arrangement that is shown in Figure
14-37. The guide block, with one end smoothly sanded to a point,
is clamped to the table so the point is directly opposite the blade's
teeth. The distance between the block and the blade will control
the width of the cut. It is essential to keep turning the workpiece
so contact between the workpiece and the guide's edge will be constant
throughout the pass.
It is almost
impossible to make the cut oversize, but it can be narrower than
you want if you allow the workpiece to move away from the guide.
You can use these techniques successfully if you handle the work
carefully and don't try to hurry the cutting.
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Pivot
Sawing
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Figure
14-38.
Construcion details of a pivot sawing fixture.
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You can cut
circles on the bandsaw the same way you would cut any curved line;
but if you wish to automatically gauge the cut or need many similar
pieces, a pivot fixture can be used. One that you can make is detailed
in Figure 14-38.
It is important that the fixture be situated so the pivot point
is directly on line with the tips of the blade's teeth and that
the blade be sharp and free of lead.
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Figure
14-39.
Using the pivot sawing fixture to cut a circle. Take it very
easy when you start the pass to give the blade a chance to
get into the cut.
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The best way
to work is to first cut the piece or pieces square with a side-length
to match the diameter of the circle you need. Hold the workpiece
against the blade as you press it down on the pivot point. When
you start the blade turning, it will crowd the workpiece a bit,
so you must be careful to allow the blade to work into the stock.
After that it's just a question of rotating the workpiece to complete
the pass (Figure 14-39).
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Compound
Cutting
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Figure
14-40.
The classic cabriole let is shaped by doing compound cutting,
a technique that belongs almost exclusively to the bandsaw.
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By cutting the
pattern in more than one side of the workpiece-compound cutting-you
can make the stock appear to curve through three dimensions, as
if you had carved it. This is an intriguing bandsaw technique that's
useful on a wide variety of projects. You can use it to remove stock
and simplify your lathe work, make cabriole legs for tables and
chairs (Figure 14-40),
or do "bandsaw sculpture"-animal shapes, patterned posts and rails,
fascinating lamp bases (Figure
14-41).
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Figure
14-41.
Unusual lamp bases can be made using the compound cutting
technique.
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 |
Figure
14-42.
When doing the layout for compound cutting, the pattern must
be marked on adjacent sides of the workpiece.
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The sketch in
Figure 14-42 is
a simplified version of how stock should be marked to prepare it
for compound cutting. A pattern is used to mark the stock on two
adjacent faces. The stock is bandsawed by following the pattern
on one side of the stock. Then the waste pieces are put back in
their original positions either by tack-nailing or by using masking
tape. Then the workpiece is bandsawed on the second side (Figure
14-43). When the second phase of cutting is complete, the waste
pieces fall away to reveal the finished piece.
 |
Figure
14-43.
Whe waste pieces that fall away after one side of the stock
is cut are replaced either by nailing or taping. Then the
second side of the workpiece is cut.
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 |
Figure
14-44.
Don't be too hasty in discarding the waste pieces that result
from compound cutting. They might come in handy on some future
project.
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Don't be too
quick to discard the waste pieces. Some of them, as shown in Figure
14-44, end up themselves as interesting pieces that can be utilized
on other projects.
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Cutting
Particle Board, Plastics & Metals
As mentioned
earlier, your bandsaw will also cut materials other than solid wood
and plywood. These include particle board, plastic, plastic laminates,
and soft, nonferrous metals such as brass, copper, and aluminum.
Warning: Before cutting metals, clean sawdust out of the bandsaw
because hot pieces of metal could ignite sawdust. Also remember
that particle board releases toxic formaldehyde gas when cut. When
cutting particle board, always work in a well-ventilated room.
Caution: When
cutting materials other than wood, always use a combination blade.
You can ruin a woodworking blade immediately if you attempt to use
iton tough materials like these. Even a combination blade will dull
rapidly if you use it constantly for cutting these materials. Also,
work at 'Slow' speed.
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Figure
14-45.
When cutting metal, apply oil to the cutting line to help
keep the blade from overheating.
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Feed the stock
very slowly-give the blade plenty of time to cut. When cutting nonferrous
metal, put a drop or two of oil on the pattern line every inch or
so to help keep the blade from overheating (Figure
14-45). Warning: If you're cutting round stock, such as pipe,
hold it securely with a miter gauge or V-block to help prevent the
teeth from catching it and spinning It out of your hands.
Caution: When
you're finished cutting particle board, plastics, or metals, remove
the bandsaw cover and clean the tires thoroughly with a stiff bristle
brush. If you don't, the filings and chips will become imbedded
in the tires and damage them. Also clean the blade.
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