new to me SS
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new to me SS
Hi all,
I live in Warren, NJ and just picked up a used SS. The gentleman I bought it from got from someone else who owed him money a few years ago. I has turned it on, but not tested it fully. From the serial number I gathered that it was manufactured in 1983 so its probably a Mark V 500 and appears to not have been upgraded. I have the manual and the "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone" book (no printing date, but based on pictures probably from the 70s). So my question I how get started. I have a project to finish my basement this winter, so I'm pretty anxious to get started. However I know the tool needs complete evaluation before starting. Other than reading the manual, books, Shopsmithacademy videos, and forums, can you folks suggest a list of beginner must dos before starting. Like I said, I'm anxious, but also want to make sure I have enough training and that the machine to safe to use.
One question though, is it worth upgrading the unit? I checked the upgrade options and they are not cheap, in some cases 4 times what I paid. Mark 7s and 520s can be found cheaper than the upgrades which I why I am hesitant to upgrade.
Thanks all,
>JerseyWalt
I live in Warren, NJ and just picked up a used SS. The gentleman I bought it from got from someone else who owed him money a few years ago. I has turned it on, but not tested it fully. From the serial number I gathered that it was manufactured in 1983 so its probably a Mark V 500 and appears to not have been upgraded. I have the manual and the "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone" book (no printing date, but based on pictures probably from the 70s). So my question I how get started. I have a project to finish my basement this winter, so I'm pretty anxious to get started. However I know the tool needs complete evaluation before starting. Other than reading the manual, books, Shopsmithacademy videos, and forums, can you folks suggest a list of beginner must dos before starting. Like I said, I'm anxious, but also want to make sure I have enough training and that the machine to safe to use.
One question though, is it worth upgrading the unit? I checked the upgrade options and they are not cheap, in some cases 4 times what I paid. Mark 7s and 520s can be found cheaper than the upgrades which I why I am hesitant to upgrade.
Thanks all,
>JerseyWalt
I too have and use a "500" but I purchased mine in 1981. No, I haven't upgraded to a "505," "510," or a "520." I just haven't seen the need and have been able to work around almost all of the so called shortcomings of the plane old "500" (but I am eying the PowerPro if I can find the $). I would suggest you spend your time (and not your money yet) to learn everything you can about your Shopsmith and all of its capabilities and what is required for maintenance.
Some of the first projects that you can use for learning purposes is to create the many jigs and fixtures that have been shown in "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone," this forum, and other Shopsmith oriented forums (like SSUG.org and the sites on Yahoo Groups). I find that with these home made jigs and fixtures, I am able to do many of the things that the upgrades allow you to do (but just a bit more cumbersome and perhaps not as quickly).
Above all, enjoy your purchase and work safely. It is almost guaranteed to give you a lifetime of enjoyment.
Some of the first projects that you can use for learning purposes is to create the many jigs and fixtures that have been shown in "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone," this forum, and other Shopsmith oriented forums (like SSUG.org and the sites on Yahoo Groups). I find that with these home made jigs and fixtures, I am able to do many of the things that the upgrades allow you to do (but just a bit more cumbersome and perhaps not as quickly).
Above all, enjoy your purchase and work safely. It is almost guaranteed to give you a lifetime of enjoyment.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
qclabrat wrote:Hi all,
I live in Warren, NJ and just picked up a used SS. The gentleman I bought it from got from someone else who owed him money a few years ago. I has turned it on, but not tested it fully. From the serial number I gathered that it was manufactured in 1983 so its probably a Mark V 500 and appears to not have been upgraded. I have the manual and the "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone" book (no printing date, but based on pictures probably from the 70s). So my question I how get started. I have a project to finish my basement this winter, so I'm pretty anxious to get started. However I know the tool needs complete evaluation before starting. Other than reading the manual, books, Shopsmithacademy videos, and forums, can you folks suggest a list of beginner must dos before starting. Like I said, I'm anxious, but also want to make sure I have enough training and that the machine to safe to use.
One question though, is it worth upgrading the unit? I checked the upgrade options and they are not cheap, in some cases 4 times what I paid. Mark 7s and 520s can be found cheaper than the upgrades which I why I am hesitant to upgrade.
Thanks all,
>JerseyWalt
Hi, JersyWalt! Wanted to join the group in welcoming you to the forum. Having read your post a couple times, I think you are requesting information concerning sawing, drilling, and other milling of wood with the shopsmith. This is assuming that you have cleaned and lubricated you entire machine and it is running well.
With those assumptions, I submit that the Shopsmith Mark V is not an easy machine to use cutting rectangular panels from plywood. It can be done, once a full sheet of ply is broken down. You should have a panel sled for making squared corners on panels. A sled makes this operation safer and easier.
Do you have the table/miter slots accurately aligned to the saw blade? This is of primary importance to avoid kickbacks and/or burning.
Building cabinets with your shopsmith will probably require ripping longer pieces. You will want to have outfeed support such as a roller or table.
Keep on with your study. You will find many tips in woodworking magazines and on the web. Did your manual have the "Self Study Course"? If so doing the course work is highly recommended!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34651
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Another welcome!
As far as some folks having both a SS and a TS, some had a TS and then acquired a SS. Myself, I have had a SS for almost a half century and only recently acquired a TS(Could not let the trash man get it from neighbor's pile) not because of a perceived inadequacy of the SS. However the small table size(Mark 5) has been at times a frustration factor.
I also have a RAS, but that was purchased to cut rafters for a hip roof over a sizable addition(Compound chop saws either had not been created or I was ignorant of them). I did not like the idea of using a hand saw either powered or the old fashioned kind.
I concur on a plan that includes familiarization first then enhancement later.
As far as some folks having both a SS and a TS, some had a TS and then acquired a SS. Myself, I have had a SS for almost a half century and only recently acquired a TS(Could not let the trash man get it from neighbor's pile) not because of a perceived inadequacy of the SS. However the small table size(Mark 5) has been at times a frustration factor.
I also have a RAS, but that was purchased to cut rafters for a hip roof over a sizable addition(Compound chop saws either had not been created or I was ignorant of them). I did not like the idea of using a hand saw either powered or the old fashioned kind.
I concur on a plan that includes familiarization first then enhancement later.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
My miter saws were because of my work in the construction trades. When I have to cut a number of 2X4's, I mount them on my Shopsmith so I can use the out tables for support and still move it around. When I have to cut them on the job site, I mount them on one of my WorkMates and use a roller support for the outrigger. It is much easier and more accurate to cut long pieces like a 2X4 with a miter saw than trying to feed it through any table saw. It is a factor of leverage.qclabrat wrote:thanks for the welcoming guys,
I noticed many have separate table and miter saws. Is that because the SS does not cut large pieces of well? Much of my initial uses will be cutting 2x4s and making cabinets and benches with plywood.
>JerseyWalt
________________________________________________________________________________________________
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
My miter saws were because of my work in the construction trades. When I have to cut a number of 2X4's, I mount them on my Shopsmith so I can use the out tables for support and still move it around. When I have to cut them on the job site, I mount them on one of my WorkMates and use a roller support for the outrigger. It is much easier and more accurate to cut long pieces like a 2X4 with a miter saw than trying to feed it through any table saw. It is a factor of leverage.qclabrat wrote:thanks for the welcoming guys,
I noticed many have separate table and miter saws. Is that because the SS does not cut large pieces of well? Much of my initial uses will be cutting 2x4s and making cabinets and benches with plywood.
>JerseyWalt
________________________________________________________________________________________________
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
1) never change the speed setting when the spindle is not turning.qclabrat wrote:can you folks suggest a list of beginner must dos before starting.
2) never use a TS without upper and lower guards for through cuts or without lower guard + riving knife for partial cuts.
3) never put your fingers in the red zone while the spindle is turning.
that said, miter saws or radial arm saws are always easier to use than a table saw to trim 1/4" off the end of a 12' board. I think I paid $80 for an inexpensive 10" miter saw and $60 for a good blade to supplement my 500. for me, this was a good way to go.
as others said, home-sized tablesaws are not a great choice for breaking down plywood sheets either. a circular saw and a cutting guide are a very practical way to do this. putting a sheet of stiff insulating foam under the plywood serves to protect your floor and your blade. my 18V Dewalt circular saw works well for me for this.
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
ER10 awaiting restoration
Welcome, JerseyWalt!
With a used SS, make sure to do the alignment procedures to make sure everything is running true. The Sawdust Sessions on rebuilding an SS (available on the website) have a lot of excellent information on evaluation and adjustment.
The tables on a 500 are what they are. They are not huge, but then the SS doesn't have huge tables, anyway.
Follow the safety procedures in the PTWFE book and the updated PDFs from the SS website.
Good luck, and take care.
-- vmhaas
With a used SS, make sure to do the alignment procedures to make sure everything is running true. The Sawdust Sessions on rebuilding an SS (available on the website) have a lot of excellent information on evaluation and adjustment.
The tables on a 500 are what they are. They are not huge, but then the SS doesn't have huge tables, anyway.
Follow the safety procedures in the PTWFE book and the updated PDFs from the SS website.
Good luck, and take care.
-- vmhaas