My older neighbor, (and I'm 72) foned me tonight for help in getting motor/capacator/condenser replacements for his original purchase E-10.
Where's the best place to get these kind of parts? E-bay, SS...
What came to my mind... Is the E-10 capable of taking the Mark 5 power head?
I'm getting the new Power Pro anyway. (I hope.)
Wayne
Milwaukee
E-10 Moter repair parts
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
MickyD here has repaired a 10ER motor, so he might could help. Otherwise, you might want to talk to Skip Campbell at the ER10 Yahoo Group (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shopsmith10ERusers/). He's pretty much the top guy on ER stuff.smredleg wrote:My older neighbor, (and I'm 72) foned me tonight for help in getting motor/capacator/condenser replacements for his original purchase E-10.
Where's the best place to get these kind of parts? E-bay, SS...
What came to my mind... Is the E-10 capable of taking the Mark 5 power head?
I'm getting the new Power Pro anyway. (I hope.)
Wayne
Milwaukee
The way tube spacing is different on the 10ER so the Mark 5 headstock will not fit on it without modification.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34650
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Does he need a motor or a capacitor for his present motor?
The unique thing about the 10 ER motors is the location of the capacitor. Most motors have the external capacitor on the 'top'(side opposite the mount) whereas the 10 ER has it on the side(to increase the clearance below).
Any proper sized motor will work, but the capacitor location is an obstacle.
A potential problem with replacing the 10 ER capacitor is that soldering is involved. These motors were created before the quick connect/disconnect tabs etc. were 'invented'. This may also be an issue as far as a direct replacement is concerned. Most electrical supply houses stock both motors and capacitors. HVAC suppliers also. You may run into 'wholesale only' policy.
The unique thing about the 10 ER motors is the location of the capacitor. Most motors have the external capacitor on the 'top'(side opposite the mount) whereas the 10 ER has it on the side(to increase the clearance below).
Any proper sized motor will work, but the capacitor location is an obstacle.
A potential problem with replacing the 10 ER capacitor is that soldering is involved. These motors were created before the quick connect/disconnect tabs etc. were 'invented'. This may also be an issue as far as a direct replacement is concerned. Most electrical supply houses stock both motors and capacitors. HVAC suppliers also. You may run into 'wholesale only' policy.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I have gotten capacitors from Grainger. I believe McMaster-Carr carries them as well as a number of other places. New the capacitors cost around $5.smredleg wrote:My older neighbor, (and I'm 72) foned me tonight for help in getting motor/capacator/condenser replacements for his original purchase E-10.
Where's the best place to get these kind of parts? E-bay, SS...
What came to my mind... Is the E-10 capable of taking the Mark 5 power head?
I'm getting the new Power Pro anyway. (I hope.)
Wayne
Milwaukee
The 10E/ER tube spacing is such that it will not accept the power head from a Mark V. As far as a 10E/ER parts source, Ebay is a good one. You might also have success over on the 10erusers Yahoo group. There are a number of folks over there that have extra parts.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Nobody else asked, so I will. WHY does he think he neeeds these parts?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
ER 10 Start Up problem
Chuck is standing beside me now.
Motor falters on start-up. It slows down, with less power and then recovers.
So what say you all.
I say thanks.
w and Chuck in Milwaukee
Motor falters on start-up. It slows down, with less power and then recovers.
So what say you all.
I say thanks.
w and Chuck in Milwaukee
Hi;
What do you mean by "falters on start up"? Does it slow down and "stutter" after coming to full speed? An electric motor on start up will be slower than full speed. The time that it takes to come to full speed can be longer if the capacitor has changed value. If it stays on the start windings too long it will eventually start to trip the circuit breaker.
If the motor falters and stutters after coming to full speed I might be inclined to suspect a problem such as a poor electrical connection such as the power switch or a failed solder connection. Also the centrifugal switch is a consideration if it is dirty.
The first thing that I would try is a thorough cleaning of the motor with some compressed air to dislodge any dust, also with the belt removed try to turn the motor shaft by hand and see if it turns freely to eliminate a possible bearing problem. Do the easy things first.
Bill V
What do you mean by "falters on start up"? Does it slow down and "stutter" after coming to full speed? An electric motor on start up will be slower than full speed. The time that it takes to come to full speed can be longer if the capacitor has changed value. If it stays on the start windings too long it will eventually start to trip the circuit breaker.
If the motor falters and stutters after coming to full speed I might be inclined to suspect a problem such as a poor electrical connection such as the power switch or a failed solder connection. Also the centrifugal switch is a consideration if it is dirty.
The first thing that I would try is a thorough cleaning of the motor with some compressed air to dislodge any dust, also with the belt removed try to turn the motor shaft by hand and see if it turns freely to eliminate a possible bearing problem. Do the easy things first.
Bill V