Shopsmith Forums

Well, I got my '58 headstock all ship shape, and I was working on cleaning up the 500 series worktable, when I discovered that the rear trunnion was nearly frozen. I took the table off the trunnions and was able to move it a little after WD40 and levering it with a long pry bar.

I took a look at the exploded view on the SS parts page, but it didn't clue me in as to how the trunnion attaches to the mounting block. I don't really see a bearing, or any adjustments.

Anyone know how the rear trunnion attaches to the mounting block on a series 500 worktable? I'd like to just pop it off and clean/polish it back into functionality. (Can't afford a 510 upgrade right now.) Also, any other ideas on how to get that trunnion pivoting properly would be most appreciated.

Thanks!

-Chris

The 'mounting' block has a bearing through which a post rotates. WD40 is not an effective penetrating oil. I like kerosene! Others swear by 'Kroil'. let it soak overnight, and try rotating the 'mounting block' Observe that it is flat on one side and slightly rounded on the other. Do not mount it upside down when reattaching to the table top. It will break!!!

Item 142 rotates on a post on item 151.http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/partscat/worktableexpview_500.htm

The 'mounting block' referred to in the link above is for the saw blade guard.

Hi Chris! Welcome to the Forum!

Although I know just about nothing about the 500 table, I found one reference to an up grade to the 500 table tie bar. Hope it helps. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals/MKV500_SuppInfo.pdf

Assuming the 500 trunnions are similar to the 510 here's an old post that discusses aligning the trunnions. Nick;s explanations are pretty cool.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=131&highlight=dollar+bill

charlese wrote:Hi Chris! Welcome to the Forum!

Although I know just about nothing about the 500 table, I found one reference to an up grade to the 500 table tie bar. Hope it helps. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals/MKV500_SuppInfo.pdf

Assuming the 500 trunnions are similar to the 510 here's an old post that discusses aligning the trunnions. Nick]http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ollar+bill[/URL]

CML: These links will probably add to your confusion. The first does contain a good drawing of the tiebar which you do have, but all those other parts may not be what you have.

The thread link pertains to the newer version on the table(505,510,520).

You meant well Chuck! (good intentions)

My 500 also has a locking pin that must be pulled out to allow the table to tilt. I assume this is universal, but I had not seen anyone mention it. If I don't pull the pin outward, the trunion is locked horizontal. The pin can be very stubborn in my limited experience.

vzandt wrote:My 500 also has a locking pin that must be pulled out to allow the table to tilt. I assume this is universal, but I had not seen anyone mention it. If I don't pull the pin outward, the trunion is locked horizontal. The pin can be very stubborn in my limited experience.

That pin be on the 'front' trunion.

Chris - glad you brought this up, I'm having the EXACT same issue on a 1954 greenie that just got blasted, repainted and reassembled (bought it back in June 2009, been working off and on since then). I've been meaning to pose the question out here, and it's completely slipped my mind until I saw your note.

Perhaps the kerosene/kroil soak will work?

Thanks, everyone, for the tips. I left the thing to soak in some kerosene all day, and smacked it with a mallet a few times and got it to loosen up a little. It looks like it's a bronze bushing, and it's meant to be fairly stiff. I put the table back on, and now I'm able to tilt the table without unreasonable force, but it's not loose by any means. I'll call it good, since it's completely functional, albiet tight.

Matt: I was surprised by how difficult the trunnion was to move without the table bolted to it. Try mounting your table after spraying some penetrating oil on there, then see how tough it is to move.

I had an extra table that I bought to deal with another problem that was stuck also. After cleaning the pin with some very fine wet or dry paper (what I had on hand), I smeared a little white lithium grease on it. Put it back together. It's been in storage over a year and still moves smooth. Used it about 6 months before the 520 upgrade, no sawdust collection on the pin or joint.

I know this is a little late but just in case it might help this or another time... I happen to have a 500 table apart so this afternoon I brought it out into the sun light a shot a couple of pictures. You will get to see them soon.

That joint should be quite easy to turn. I have a total of three tables like this and the first two were fine, the last one from some bay somewhere was dry and had a little rust and while it still moved it didn't feel right.

Keep in mind that there is a steel and brass combination at that joint and the possibility of galling. (excess friction may cause the softer metal to be torn loose and "welded" to the harder material. You really need machine oil or grease on the parts.

The first two pictures are what the "bad one" looks like when I took it apart. If you look close you can see the condition of the material inside, not to sure if I'm going to do much more then clean up the bad spots and clean the shaft... and of course lube it up. This is for a second table on a 500 so it is really not a big deal.
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The next shot is of a table where the bushing has not been messed up. This one still needs some lube but it can go back together with out any additional effort.
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Ed