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Homemade Lathe Chuck

Post #55474 by bluekayak » Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:35 am

I had an extra faceplate for my lathe, and decided what I really needed was a chuck. Most of the time I am turning 1 1/2 inch stock so I just used a couple of 2X6 scraps and a hose clamp.

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After building it, I realized only the bottom 2 X 6 was necessary. I could have just split the bottom one and been done with it.

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One thing I wanted to be able to do is to use the chisel on the front part of the turning (not having it in the tailstock). It is a good idea to number one corner and put a corresponding number on the turning. That way you can put it back in the same corner if you take it out and discover it needs some touch up work. Also notice that the hose clamp has been shortened and turned the other direction.

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It also saved the day when my headstock chewed up a turning I was working on. I just clamped the partially completed turning in my homemade chuck and continued on with the turning.

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If you need a chuck of a specific size, and have a faceplate, this might work for you.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

Post #55482 by a1gutterman » Fri Jan 01, 2010 12:12 pm

That is an interesting solution, Jerry. I am glad it worked for you. Was it easy to get the "space" centered so your work piece was not eccentric? How did you do it?

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Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.

Post #55496 by beeg » Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:12 pm

[color="Blue"]Be VERY CAREFUL of that spinning hose clamp.:eek:[/color]

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SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob

Post #55499 by bluekayak » Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:19 pm

It ends up being a little eccentric, but gets centered as it turns. That is why I ended up putting a number in the bottom corner and a matching number on the stock being turned. Then if I want to put it back in the chuck, I am pretty close to where I left off.

I started with a rough circle of 2 X 6 that was slightly larger than the faceplate and turned that to match the faceplate. Then I screwed a second one to the first and turned it to match with an indentation for the hose clamp. The second one was cut in two on the diameter with the band saw and marked with 2 X 2 stock as near the center as I could get it. Then I glued and screwed one half the to first one and the second one it tightened down with the hose clamp.

If I was doing it again, I'd try just using one 2 X 6 and screwing one half to the faceplate. You could make these in different sizes and attach the one you need to the faceplate.

Certainly not as convenient as a self centering chuck, but an option if you do not have one.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

Post #55500 by bluekayak » Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:22 pm

beeg wrote:[color="Blue"]Be VERY CAREFUL of that spinning hose clamp.:eek:[/color]


Yes. That is why I shortened it down, ground off the sharp edges, and turned in the opposite direction from the way I originally had it. Fastening down with duct tape might be a good option. Perhaps I should try to find a way to "bury" the screw.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

Post #55501 by bucksaw » Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:22 pm

beeg wrote:[color="Blue"]Be VERY CAREFUL of that spinning hose clamp.:eek:[/color]


I totally agree. Be very careful. When I was de-rusting/polishing the tubes on my shopsmith, a year ago, I used a clamp like yours and was not paying close enough attention to my hands and the screw head hit one of my fingers. Damaged a nerve and the finger hurt for about a month. The finger still feels like it is part numb but is fully functional.

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Dave - Idaho
Greenie S#261612 - Mar 1954 / Greenie S#305336 - Oct 1955 / Gray S#SS1360 - ?

"Why do we drive on parkways and park on driveways?" :cool:

Post #55504 by bluekayak » Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:40 pm

Thanks Dave. Maybe I should scrap this idea, or find another way to hold the pieces together. The reason I turned the radiator hose around and shortened it is, duh, it hit me. Fortunately it was just the excess clamp material and not the screw.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN

Post #55505 by beeg » Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:05 pm

[color="Blue"]COULD ya recess that area, so that the clamp is just below the surface?[/color]

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SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob

another option...

Post #55506 by henecle » Fri Jan 01, 2010 2:09 pm

might be to increase the overall diameter of the chuck stock and cut a groove deep enough to recess the hose clamp. It could still be accessed to tighten yet be below the surface of the exterior.

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Leif

1950 Model 10ER/A34 Jigsaw
1960 Sawsmith RAS
1981 Mark V Model 500 "Shorty"
1981 Mark V Model 500 "Drill Press"
1987 Sawsmith 2000 Ultra
2005 Mark 7 PowerPro Model 520/Bandsaw/Jointer/Pro Planer/Belt Sander/Scroll Saw/Jigsaw/Strip Sander/Universal Tool Rest/Speed Reducer/DC3300/RingMaster/Mortising Package/MiterSled 5000/Biscuit Joiner/Grinding Wheel Guard/Nova G3 Chuck/Lathe Duplicator/SS Air System
2010 Lumber Smith sawmill

"I wish I could remember everything my Dad taught me"

Post #55510 by tkhudson » Fri Jan 01, 2010 3:20 pm

henecle wrote:might be to increase the overall diameter of the chuck stock and cut a groove deep enough to recess the hose clamp. It could still be accessed to tighten yet be below the surface of the exterior.



Seems I saw a trick on TV where the turner attatched a piece of tape that would slap him on hand if he were getting close or he could see the tape... either way it would be a good warning. maybe something with a zip tie?

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