krisztian wrote:thanks for the tips so far. I realize that if one wants a super accurate cut, it's best to double check with a steel ruler. That said, having a fairly accurate scale is much quicker. I just have not had a table saw without a scale on it, so I thought maybe one of you SS guys had figured out a way to put a scale on yourselves? I guess that may be problematic since the blade itself is not always going to be in the same spot relative to the table since it's not actually fixed to the table.
To answer Dusty, I have not done any extensive adjustments, and I just ordered the 5/8" saw arbor and I have no blades yet. I did clean out just about everything in the main housing and put grease where I saw fit. She's a bit loud, but I have never heard a SS running before so I it's hard to know if somethings wrong. Have not checked the belt tension yet. Off topic, but thought I'd answer your post.
Thanks again for the quick tips, and keep em' comming if anything else pops up.
The 520 upgrade has a scale to set the fence. However I rarely use it just as I rarely use a scale on any saw. To me it is much faster to mark my wood, eye ball the alignment and double check with a very very very small cut to verify I'm on.
I often make sure that the factory edge is against the fence and many times my waste cut actually is my keeper so I have to compersate for kerf thickness.
Perhaps it is just me but nearly every time I make a mistake in my cutting, board to long or too short it occurs when I used the rip scale on the saw.
Old dogs don't learn new tricks real easy so I guess I will continue to measure with a my trusty steel scale.
Yes I had seen Nick's way of setting up wood but I can do it much faster by sighting down my cut line against the edge of the blade.