MArk V power swithc replacement problem

TFF · Post by **TFF** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:13 pm

Corrrection: there is only 4 terminals:

Instructions are not clear. Replaced old 4 wire switch with new 5 post switch. Used white wire to cap the old two white wires per instruction sheet.
The instructions don't say which of the 5 terminals receive the remaining two black wires. I plugged the two black into two opposing terminals on back of switch.
Help! I need to get a project finished and the saw won't start.
Does it matter which of the 5 terminals receive the two wires.
TFF

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:20 pm

TFF wrote:Instructions are not clear. Replaced old 4 wire switch with new 5 post switch. Used white wire to cap the old two white wires per instruction sheet.
The instructions don't say which of the 5 terminals receive the remaining two black wires. I plugged the two black into two opposing terminals on back of switch.
Help! I need to get a project finished and the saw won't start.
Does it matter which of the 5 terminals receive the two wires.
TFF

Can you scan in a copy of the instruction sheet. Reason, I have just received a new power switch for my Mark V and it has only four (4) terminals.

Do you have a Volt-Ohm-Meter to use? OR Can you post a photo of your switch?

We can do this!

TFF · Post by **TFF** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:31 pm

Yes, there are only 4 terminals. I must be tired from getting this job done. Buidling storm windows.
I do have an ohm meter

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:45 pm

TFF wrote:Yes, there are only 4 terminals. I must be tired from getting this job done. Buidling storm windows.
I do have an ohm meter

There are so many different physical configurations that a switch could be. But if it goes into a Mark V, this might be one of them. Hope these help.

[ATTACH]6076[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]6077[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]6078[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]6079[/ATTACH]

Connect the two black wires (one from the motor and one from the power cord to the two terminals with black wires (in the photos).

The two terminals with no wires are actually another switch that can be used should this one fail. This is a double pole single throw switch (DPST).

The switch in these photos is the new switch that I recently received from Shopsmith for use in my Mark V.

TFF · Post by **TFF** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:55 pm

Dusty thanks. I had the two black wires opposing each side. I followed your picture and put them on the same side top and bottom. Saw powered up. Back to my strom windows. Thanks a lot. Long time shopsmith user, first time using this forum.
TFF

TFF · Post by **TFF** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:00 pm

poor design in the new switch. Going is was a breeze. Trying to get it back out was a bear. The two plastic tabs on top don't want to come through on exit. They bunch up at top and jam. Had to straighten them out and use force to pull new switch back out.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:00 pm

TFF wrote:Dusty thanks. I had the two black wires opposing each side. I followed your picture and put them on the same side top and bottom. Saw powered up. Back to my strom windows. Thanks a lot. Long time shopsmith user, first time using this forum.
TFF

I glad you were able to get it running.

Welcome to the forum. Please don't be a stranger. We can always use new smittys in the group. Actually, we can use anyone who will tolerate us whether they are smitty's or not.

Work Safe

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:17 pm

TFF wrote:poor design in the new switch. Going is was a breeze. Trying to get it back out was a bear. The two plastic tabs on top don't want to come through on exit. They bunch up at top and jam. Had to straighten them out and use force to pull new switch back out.

Someone on this forum made a "U" shaped flat metal jig that mashed the top and bottom tooth release arms in to remove the later rocker type switch. I remove the quill housing so I am able to get my fingers on the upper release arms and mash the top arms in and tilt the top of the switch out. Then mash the bottom arms in and remove the switch. This design is a standard rocker switch design made by most electrical companies, not a Shopsmith designed switch like the belts.

I am finding different versions of the rocker switch that Shopsmith used. Today the rocker switch I removed had 2 black leads about 4" long with male ends. No terminals on the switch. I have removed both 2 and 4 terminal rocker switches rated at either 15 or 20 amp.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 6:33 am

billmayo wrote:Someone on this forum made a "U" shaped flat metal jig that mashed the top and bottom tooth release arms in to remove the later rocker type switch. I remove the quill housing so I am able to get my fingers on the upper release arms and mash the top arms in and tilt the top of the switch out. Then mash the bottom arms in and remove the switch. This design is a standard rocker switch design made by most electrical companies, not a Shopsmith designed switch like the belts.

I am finding different versions of the rocker switch that Shopsmith used. Today the rocker switch I removed had 2 black leads about 4" long with male ends. No terminals on the switch. I have removed both 2 and 4 terminal rocker switches rated at either 15 or 20 amp.

A switch with the embedded wires is what was originally in my 510 which dates it to the early 90's.

damagi · Post by **damagi** » Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:39 pm

Is it possible to upgrade the switch on an older Mark V to the newer style? Alternatively, has anyone upgraded their switch to something with a larger "Off" pad? I saw the thread on a remote switch, which sounds like an interesting option.

Thanks

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