Since I repaired a Gilmer drive headstock with a broken belt several weeks ago, I would like to offer some tips on problems I found. The top gilmer pulley on the drive sleeve assy. has a clutch inside it and a set screw that is hidden by end drive sleeve bearing housing part of the headstock. If the gilmer belt breaks, it normally because the clutch did not slip to save the belt when the quill was stopped while the motor was operating. The clutch discs and plates will stick to each other over time and not slip when they need to. I have not found any information from Shopsmith or anyone else on how to test the clutch. Since you have to remove the drive sleeve assy to replace the belt, this is what I do to check the clutch. First look at the gilmer pulley from the accessory end and see if you see inside teeth on the setscrew end. The first gilmer pulleys made had no clutch but the clutch was added to prevent broken belts. Then I take the broken or bad belt and wrap it around the gilmer pulley and put it in a vice or pipe wrench. The belt prevent damage to the gilmer pulley teeth. Then taking a torque wrench and a 1 1/16" socket to a splined accessory metal hub (5 grooves) on the accessory end of the drive sleeve shaft, see if you can turn the drive sleeve while holding the gilmer pulley. It should take approx 20-25 ft/pds. to turn If unable to turn the shaft and there are inside teeth at the set screw end of the gilmer pulley, then it should be disassemblied. You will need a bearing or hydranic press to disassemble the clutch and put it back together again. I offer this service if needed.
The other gilmer drive headstock I repaired had a loose set screw in the gilmer pulley on the drive sleeve and would not drive the quill. Anytime I pull the drive sleeve, I always replace the belt as a maintenance item. I also replace the motor drive belt and lubicate with a few drops of oil, the motor sheave and the idler sheave.
If you have not visited this site: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals.htm
there is a manual called: Replacement of the Poly V or Gilmer Belt 521681/521683
which I recommend you read and follow.
If the drive sleeve pulley has a set screw, be sure to check that it is tight and the drive sleeve pulley is seated againest the back snap ring, not the front snap ring. Do not overtighten the bolt (20 in/pds) in the ears that holds the idler eccentric bushing or tighten the belt to less than a 1/8" deflection. Loose is better than too tight. Too tight overheats the bearings.
Where are you located? Let me know if I can be any more help to you. Have a great day.
Bill Mayo http://www.billstoolz.com
easterngray wrote:I ordered new a Gilmer belt from SS and am going to install it this week. The belt came with instructions, but I thought I would check in here and see if there is any advice to be offered by guys that have changed the Gilmer belt on their machines. I also ordered a new drive belt and am curious as to whether I can change that at the same time. I may not change the drive belt at all, in that the one on there looks pretty good, but the Gilmer is shot. Any guidance and advice is appreciated! All the best, Alec