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dusty wrote:Just a question to provoke some thought and discussion on this matter!

Assuming that you have a perfectly good Wixey that is stored away in the cabinet:

When you take the Wixey out, turn it on and set in on a "flat" surface - what does it show. DON'T ZERO IT.

"flat" or "level"?

JPG wrote:

dusty wrote:Just a question to provoke some thought and discussion on this matter!

Assuming that you have a perfectly good Wixey that is stored away in the cabinet:

When you take the Wixey out, turn it on and set in on a "flat" surface - what does it show. DON'T ZERO IT.

"flat" or "level"?

Kind of my question. What is that supposed to indicate/prove? Is the last zero maintained through the power off? If so, why does that matter? There is level and then there are angles relative to two surfaces. They are not the same thing. Wixey will do both, at least in the later versions. If you want to measure the angle between two surfaces you must zero it on one surface first. If you are measuring level there is no zeroing required.

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:

dusty wrote:Just a question to provoke some thought and discussion on this matter!

Assuming that you have a perfectly good Wixey that is stored away in the cabinet:

When you take the Wixey out, turn it on and set in on a "flat" surface - what does it show. DON'T ZERO IT.

"flat" or "level"?

Kind of my question. What is that supposed to indicate/prove? Is the last zero maintained through the power off? If so, why does that matter? There is level and then there are angles relative to two surfaces. They are not the same thing. Wixey will do both, at least in the later versions. If you want to measure the angle between two surfaces you must zero it on one surface first. If you are measuring level there is no zeroing required.

Actually NO. If you measure zero when the angle indicator is initially attached to the would be reference surface - you are good to go. Zero is Zero no matter how you get there.

As a matter of habit - I zero to the would be reference surface BEFORE I accept it as MY REFERENCE surface. If you feel comfortable skipping that steo - by all means, have at it.

dusty wrote:

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:
"flat" or "level"?

Kind of my question. What is that supposed to indicate/prove? Is the last zero maintained through the power off? If so, why does that matter? There is level and then there are angles relative to two surfaces. They are not the same thing. Wixey will do both, at least in the later versions. If you want to measure the angle between two surfaces you must zero it on one surface first. If you are measuring level there is no zeroing required.

Actually NO. If you measure zero when the angle indicator is initially attached to the would be reference surface - you are good to go. Zero is Zero no matter how you get there.

As a matter of habit - I zero to the would be reference surface BEFORE I accept it as MY REFERENCE surface. If you feel comfortable skipping that steo - by all means, have at it.

I guess you don't understand what I meant. Your statements are perfectly correct. What I referring to is the BUBBLE level function of the Wixey. It is factory calibrated to the center of gravity (I guess) and requires no calibration.

There are more apps , one is called protractor , if the table isnt level it still shows up , what I was suggesting is setting the blade and table at 90 deg and then leveling the machine the table should read level so should the tubes , then checking the blade it usually reads 90 deg ,thats the only way I can get a accurate reading on any of the apps I have tried , sounds like that is what you folks are suggesting as well .

There are two modes of operation.

1) Level function. The device(wixey/whatever) is calibrated to indicate '0' when an exterior surface is 'level'. That function has no zero setting as it is 'built' in.

2) Relative angle. This requires a 'zero' setting on one of the two surfaces that are to be 'measured'. It then indicates the angle difference between the reference surface(where it was zeroed) and the second surface when it is placed upon the second surface.

A properly aligned SS will indicate 'zero'(level) on the table set at the stop that is perpendicular to the blade only if the SS is sitting on a level 'floor'. When so sitting on a level floor, the blade should be at 90° to the table/floor.

Any one ever 'zero' out a bubble level? Of course not since they are designed to indicate level(and plumb) as their primary purpose. Ditto the '(in)clinometer'. It may also have the relative angle function which requires a zeroing step.

Zero is only zero where one wishes to define it so.(i.e. a reference)

The clinometer app has a calibrate function that allows the phone to be set at 90 degrees when sitting on the saw table with the phone on its left side. With the phone standing on it's long end it reads zero, but is very hard to get stable. It will only calibrate with the left side down, which is the most stable side on my phone.

The problem I have with using the iPhone's built in clinometer for setting table/blade angles is that that iPhone's long edges aren't flat because they have buttons on either edge about 3/4 from the top.

If you try to use those long iPhone edges against the reference surface, the buttons make the iPhone sit at a slight angle (put a straight edge against the long edge to see what I mean). IMO, that makes the iPhone a dubious clinometer for precision work.

The iPhone can be laid on its back or on the short top or bottom edges (as long as the long, button-festooned edges aren't butted up against a reference surface). If you choose to do that, however, take the phone out of its case (if you use one) or check the case to see how straight/flat those surfaces are.

Anyone know what sensor it uses, what it's accuracy and resolution is and on what axis it functions?

Most standards are +-1 degree if I recall some are better , I don't have a wixi so not sure on that one. once calibrated it should be dead on?

2 degrees off in a 90 deg miter is 88 deg ? if the angle finder is off another 2 degrees because it is out of level or plumb then the cuts are not going to match up ?

I was asked years ago by a student how did I know a bubble level was right, showed him how a water level worked and how to test the bubble level .