Shopsmith Forums

I have a Mark V and a 510 and have a need to drill some deep holes (15 to 18 Inches). I have been clamping a 2x4 to the table but it is difficult to get it square with the drill bit. Has anyone come up with a fence adaption that would allow me to attach the 510 fence parallel to the quill that locks it to the table like it does when the fence is perpendicular to the quill. Thanks Larry

I can only suggest using the miter gauge to get the 2X4 parallel to the quill.
AFAIK, there's no way to clamp the fence parallel to the quill.

I don't know what you may have access to in your shop, but consider two miter gauges (one in each slot) locked in position in the tracks.

You can pass a longer piece of rod stock through the holes connecting them to form a much wider support, then clamping the stock you are drilling to both miter gauges. The older safety grips that had the knurled threaded rod were easier to crank down, but you should be able to use the new style equally well.

I would start with the headstock pulled back, advance the quill to drilling depth, then retract and move the headstock and lock it closer to advance the drill bit in segments til you reach depth.

Equally you can fabricate something with threaded rod, some nuts, and some wood that would work like the old style hold downs were used with 10ERs. With Two Miter Gauges, you can likely envision something that will work for you.

Everett

Here's the only way I know to help position it with just the Miter Gauge. I would place it in the slot closest to headstock to help it track true.

If you secure the lead edge of the bore, supplemental boring depth will be enhanced by the walls of the first segment, and sustained by the leading edge being secured by the grip.

Everett

I have tried using the miter gauge but it does not supply enough support as the drill gets deeper causing misalignment of the drill. I have two fences for the 510 so that might be an option. I probably need a better clamping system that will hold better to the bottom of the 510 table. Just looking for new ideas. Thanks Larry

I hope you are using an extension on the face of the miter gauge.

How about a picture of your set-up?

Is the work piece short enough that you can mount an extension with rip fence on the far end and push against that?

You can also add a long extension to the miter gauge and then clamp that to a extension table down the way so it stay straight.

Ed

How long is your workpiece? When I do horizontal boring, I lock down my miter gauge to position the front end of the workpiece laterally, and I use my 520 fence to back up the other end of the workpiece. With the fence mounted on the aux table (which for rigidity should be tied to the main table with connector tubes), it can handle some fairly long workpieces. Then if you clamp stop blocks to the fence on each side of the workpiece, it ain't going anywhere.

All that said, 18" is a mighty deep hole, and drill bits tend to wander in deep holes. Especially when drilling into end grain. Immobilizing the workpiece may or may not eliminate the problem. It might also help to start the hole with a short, stiff "center drill" -- this is a common practice in metalworking.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:How long is your workpiece? When I do horizontal boring, I lock down my miter gauge to position the front end of the workpiece laterally, and I use my 520 fence to back up the other end of the workpiece. With the fence mounted on the aux table (which for rigidity should be tied to the main table with connector tubes), it can handle some fairly long workpieces. Then if you clamp stop blocks to the fence on each side of the workpiece, it ain't going anywhere.

All that said, 18" is a mighty deep hole, and drill bits tend to wander in deep holes. Especially when drilling into end grain. Immobilizing the workpiece may or may not eliminate the problem. It might also help to start the hole with a short, stiff "center drill" -- this is a common practice in metalworking.

Make a Jig or fixture for it.

You could pehaps fabricate a plywood crosscut-like table to fit in the slots, and clamp it down on extension table. Some cleats on the opposite side of the stock on that crosscut table could keep the work piece square, as well as using other recessed t-nuts and threaded rod etc to make top clamps you could bolt down. Maybe overkill for one piece, but could pay dividends in time if you have many pieces to do.

How big is the stock, what shape is the stock, and what size hole are you boring in it?

Starting that hole with the right size Forstner Bit first would give you a very true initial bore for the longer bit to follow in line to mitigate the drift.

If it is large enough hole, you might drill with Forstner all the way with a drill bit extension if it would fit inside the hole and not block cuttings.

If its a through bore, bore from both sides of the stock exactly in the same plane for 9" from each end.

A photo of what you are doing would help us envision what you are doing better.

Everett

I have tried putting a 1x4 as an extension and it has a tendency to flex. I could try a 2x4 but would probably have to clamp it. Hole sizes are up to 5/8". I have tried drilling a 1/4" first to help with bit wander. the size of piece I use is generally a 2x2 or a a 3x3. I like the idea of the plywood table with runners in the slot. This would allow me put a runner attached to the plywood then attach the 2x2 to that runner. Thanks Larry