Mark V to the rescue!

[BuckeyeDennis]

Thanks, Fresch. Do you still have the 10ER?

I have a both a 10E and a 10ER that I’ve been looking forward to restoring for quite a while now. But something like this window project always seems to crop up, and keep me from getting to the fun projects.

[Fresch]

I still have the er, it is at my rent house. I find my 500 mounted on a wall in drillpress mode and my 510 doing most of the work, are faster than the er. I have 3 properties so like you I repair more than create; did some pens, darts, for Christmas last year.

[Rfrank1234]

Dennis,

I also live in central Ohio and I ran into the same problem with my window sills. My approach was slightly different, but a couple years ago I repaired all of my window sills. Your windows look very similar to my windows, My windows are Marvin casement windows. I am about to start rebuilding a set of window sashes for my existing casement frames.

Have you had to tackle any of your sashes? If so, do you have any tips or recommendation for me? For example maybe you used a specific set of bits or you came up with some jigs to help you. Any advice would be appreaciated.

Thanks,

Ryan

[BuckeyeDennis]

Dennis,

I also live in central Ohio and I ran into the same problem with my window sills. My approach was slightly different, but a couple years ago I repaired all of my window sills. Your windows look very similar to my windows, My windows are Marvin casement windows. I am about to start rebuilding a set of window sashes for my existing casement frames.

Have you had to tackle any of your sashes? If so, do you have any tips or recommendation for me? For example maybe you used a specific set of bits or you came up with some jigs to help you. Any advice would be appreaciated.

Thanks,

Ryan

My windows were made by Norco, a local manufacturer that was later bought by Jeld-Wen. It turns out that Jeld-Wen still made replacement sashes for my windows, although reportedly they won’t be for much longer. My window-repair contractor bought half a dozen of the replacement sashes, and re-glazed most of the rest of my windows. I stained and varnished the new sashes myself.

So no, I have zero experience building sashes, although I did get to see how they are opened up to replace the double-pane glass. Should you have any desire to use a contractor for the repairs, I can highly recommend the small company that I used, Burgess Window Repair. Absolutely top-notch, and very reasonable on their pricing. The owner himself did my inspection, quoting, and follow-up.

[Rfrank1234]

Dennis,

Thanks for your fast reply.

I mistakenly stated my windows are Marvin they are also Norco windows. I ran into issues tracking down information on these windows. I may reach out to Burgess Window Repair.

Many of my sashes need the lower plank replaced. I cut out the rotted wood in the boards and patched them with wood epoxy. This prevented the damage from spreading, but one can still see the sash has been patched. I wonder if Burgess Windows would reglaze my damaged windows if I cut new lower sash boards to repair the damaged portion.

Thanks for letting me know about Burgess Windows.

[DLB]

The Jessem guides normally mount to T-track using a T-bolt, but of course you have to use the special Shopsmith T-nuts on a 520 fence. Instead of fooling around mounting threaded studs to the SS T-nuts, I just used 1/4-20 hex bolts of the appropriate length. Referring to the guide on the left in the pic above, the left-hand bolt normally locks the fence laterally, and acts as a hinge pin for elevation adjustment. Using the SS T-nuts, that bolt does not lock the fence laterally, but it still provides the hinge function. Then when you tighten the other bolt, it locks the guide down both laterally and in elevation. This worked out fine for me.

These Jessem router guides retail for $100, vs. $250 for Jessem's tablesaw guides. Mounted directly to the 520 fence as I did, the maximum stock thickness is a bit over an inch (mine in the pic is 1.1"). But it would be easy to make a carrier that raises the guides to whatever height you may need. The Jessem router guides worked great in this application, and the bevel milling went off without a hitch.

I just picked up a set of the router table version JessEm guides. The RH or Infeed guide bearing on mine rotates both ways. That seems abnormal, but can someone that owns these please confirm that for me? I have the table saw version and those both rotate only one way.

- David

[JPG]

Could it be the table saw version is different so as to stop kick back?

[DLB]

The anti-reverse is definitely part of the kick back control on the TS version. In the absence of kickback on the TS version, each guide assembly acts similar to a pair of featherboards, or a hand, holding the work down against the table and at the same time holding it laterally against the fence while maintaining one-way feed. Of course, you can't really use a pair of featherboards at the outfeed on a saw which is why these are cool. So I was expecting the same functionality on this version, but on mine only the outfeed guide has anti-reverse. This from JessEm's site:

- Unique guide rollers mounted on a 5° angle effectively steering your stock towards your fence. This angle causes the roller to hold with more force if the wood tries to move against the direction of the feed.
- Rollers are fitted with one way roller bearings to ensure each roller spins in the direction of the feed to prevent kickback.

Which I guess, putting emphasis on the plural forms of roller and bearing, confirms mine are defective.

- David

[jsburger]

My router table in feed roller is only one way. I am sure if you contact Jessem they will make it right.

[BuckeyeDennis]

My router table in feed roller is only one way. I am sure if you contact Jessem they will make it right.

+1 on what John said. The one time that I needed to contact Jessem customer service, they took very good care of me.