bob84 wrote:Looking at one of the pictures of the 10ER shaper fence, one of them looks the same as the shaper fence for the Model 500 table.
Anyone know for sure if the Model 500 shaper fence would fit the 10ER table?
Thanks much!
Whoever posted those pics (on a phone and it's not letting me scroll back to see for some reason) said all the models fit the 10ER. Also the manual illustration of that fence that also fits the 500 showed it installed on a 10E/ER.
I don't know what advantages it has over the one that drops into the saw insert hole, but I think several here said the 500 shaper fence was better.
Lets cover the P 1065 Set Screw first. The one that came with mine is a slotted set screw. The Mounting Kit Parts List does not specify slotted or hex so I listed it with what mine was. Mine all seemed to be original. The Leveling Screws on the Jig Saw (P 1306 or 134-1S before the number change Nov. 1951) are listed as slotted or socket depending on which manual you have and I have seen both on the 7 I have restored. Your Jointer Mount set screw may be original too.
On to the pulleys. I do not know if buyers received a motor pulley if they didn't buy a motor with their Shopsmith. The Model 10E and 10ER were sold with or without a motor as some people decided to use a different motor to power the Shopsmith. I have had them with GE, Montgomery Wards, Craftsman and of course A. O. Smith. Pulleys were pretty common item to find at your local hardware store. As far as what bore would be standard, well that depends on the motor. The A. O. Smith motors that Magna supplied with the Model 10's have a 5/8" shaft for the 1/2 HP motor and a 3/4" shaft for the 3/4 HP motor. I have 5 Model 10s in my garage right now 2 with 1/2 HP motors and 3 with 3/4 HP motors and they each have the step pulley that fits directly on the shaft, no sleeve. I believe the Sleeve in the Pulley Assembly part of the kit was included so depending on which Magna supplied motor you had it would fit. I have had Model 10's with other 1/2 HP motors that have a 1/2" shaft. I don't recall the pulley bore on them or if they used a sleeve. The new replacement pulleys I have bought are a 5/8" bore with a sleeve for a 1/2" shaft included. I have not had to buy a replacement pulley for a 3/4 HP motor so far.
The Drive Coupling does increase the shaft size to the same as the headstock drive shaft and uses the drive shaft pulley. Skip's Drive Pulleys are the only new ones I have ever seen, so the old ones need to be preserved as much as possible.
Anyone are not using a speed changer on a Model 10 which powers a Jointer run by pulleys can use a 4 step (5-4-3-2) pulley since the steps increase as they get farther away from the motor as shown in the belt arrangements in the manual. Using a Speed Changer requires the steps to be 5-2-3-4 and therefore needs the Pulley Assembly.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
You guys post faster than I do. I was still working on the last answers when you came up with this one.
The Mark 5 Shaper Fence can be used on the Model 10 table. In fact the first Manual for it shows it in use on a Model 10ER and is dated 08-53 before the introduction and release of the Mark 5.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Attached is a Universal Hold Down Manual. I don't know if it is the same one you have seen but it is for the Model 10 and shows how to attach it to the Miter.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
As I was going back and forth with fitting parts partially assembled, a nut got stuck on one of my carriage bolts and it just spun the head of the bolt. I decided to go with flange bolts instead, and countersunk the holes with a Forstner bit a bit more.
I attached the right leg first, using the factory middle hole in the sheet metal for the front bolt of the pivot base. Then I placed the original headrest where needed, drilled the 3/8 through the entire bench (both thicknesses) without the left leg attached, then used the factory holes in that leg as well. Someone had previously drilled new holes for wherever they had them spaced before, but I didn't want to remove any more metal.
I also cleaned up the legs a bit with a wire wheel but still have a lot more to do to them. I was pretty impressed with how much steel there was still left at the bottom. As cruddy as it looked from being in a shed with no floor I expected to find a hole or need to reinforce them, but I can just refinish this set. I did bang out a couple bends where the casters and braces bolt up.
Reconstruction of this bench is really all that's left to do before I can hook up a motor and start having some real fun!
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everettdavis wrote:I am really enjoying seeing your progress and sharing it with us.
Everett
Thanks. At least someone is [emoji3]. All I get from my wife is complaints about stuff sitting on the kitchen counter! I think she rues the day she agreed to go with me to pick it up. And she now loaths the name Shopsmith.
BuckeyeDennis wrote:That bench is looking much better than I expected ... this right-brain-challenged engineer is looking forward to seeing your final creation!!!
You'd think when every workbench I've made for the last 15 years has been made from the same (free) dolphin grey desktops that I'd get tired of seeing it too, lol. I just think the rubber edge banding makes a nice bumper for work surfaces, and I didn't even have to put it on.
I also left the 2x8s about 1 1/2" long on the left end because I wasn't sure where that leg would come out, so I have to decide whether to cut it off or leave it for extra support under the laminated top. The laminated top is 60", leaving me a bit extra to work with for jointer support. However it is relatively flexible material so I think I'll fasten that end down and take all the support I can get.
everettdavis wrote:I am really enjoying seeing your progress and sharing it with us.
Everett
Thanks. At least someone is [emoji3]. All I get from my wife is complaints about stuff sitting on the kitchen counter! I think she rues the day she agreed to go with me to pick it up. And she now loaths the name Shopsmith.
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
This is a common problem. It can be not just solved, but actually judo-flipped, with counseling from masonsailor2!
