10ER rebuild

[badtheba]

Picture's worth 1000 words....

Everett

Stop rod and Gauge Extension.png

Thanks, guess I hadn't seen that picture yet. Now I know what I'm missing. It looks like insects packed all the holes full of sand, so I started soaking everything with penetrating oil and wanted to verify whether I should run a tap through or not.

[badtheba]

I'm also wondering if these parts are anything Shopsmith or just junk they tossed in the drawer.

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The bolts are 1/4-20 threaded and about 3 1/2" long with a square head, and have knurled nuts on them. The rod is larger diameter than the miter gauge stop rod, and has a stop collar installed that has a larger ID than the rod it's on. It also has small cotter pin holes on each end. I'm guessing these go to something else, as I haven't found any part or accessory they'd fit on.

[everettdavis]

New style safety grip for miter gauge... original had a thumb nut top and bottom of the hold down which was threaded that you adjusted.

New style stop rods ... you get the idea though....

holes may be full of sawdust and years of grunge.... clean with a toothpick and perhaps some compressed air blown over the hole at an angle to siphon-lift it out; you also might manually twist a very small drill bit (half the size of the hole) held in your hand down the hole to help clean it up

Worse case some one broke off the threads of both wing bolts and you will have to use an ez-out to remove them. If you have to go there, read the Got Rust document.... I link to a video of a gunsmith using ez-out thread extractors that will be essential info to have.

Everett

Safety Grip (new style).jpg (164.54 KiB) Viewed 11283 times

Look around in the documentation more

[badtheba]

New style safety grip for miter gauge... original had a thumb nut top and bottom of the hold down which was threaded that you adjusted.

New style stop rods ... you get the idea though....

holes may be full of sawdust and years of grunge.... clean with a toothpick and perhaps some compressed air blown over the hole at an angle to siphon-lift it out you also might spin a very small drill bit (half the size of the hole) held in your hand down the hole to help clean it up

Everett
Safety Grip (new style).jpg

Look around in the documentation more

Sorry, I had looked at your restored 10E and 10ER manuals, Google images of the miter gauge (none of which showed attachments), and Skip's page because I knew he had an aftermarket stop rod set for sale. Didn't think to look at the newer stuff because I figured it would be incompatible with these miter gauges.

[everettdavis]

I just edited the post with some additional info I hope you don't need.

Everett

[everettdavis]

BTW, in fairness, that photo of the safety grip is something I grabbed from an Amazon re-seller to illustrate the issue. It may not even be a fully Shopsmith OEM one, just similar.

I used it to answer your question on the purpose of the hole only.

Everett

[badtheba]

For what it's worth, I did plenty of searching before asking here about the threaded hole in top middle of the 10ER miter gauge. I was mostly going off of images pertaining only to the 10E/ER. I had seen the Mark V and newer miter gauge safety grips demonstrated on Youtube and thought it might be related, but all the safety grips mount at 2 points, and the 10ER miter gauge doesn't have anything at the rear to mount such a grip to.

After eliminating 10ER from my search and searching for "shopsmith hold down" instead, I came across this manual on ssug.org that shows some nice images. I guess the part is pretty obscure.

http://www.ssug.org/index.php/document- ... -hold-down

I also found mention that Skip sells a miter gauge bar to convert a Mark V miter gauge to fit the 10ER table. So by itself the threaded hole isn't that usable to the average owner without modification or additional purchases.

[kevinpg]

re: treadmill motor. so, I am in the process of putting my 10er back in service and i am replacing the motor that came with it which is an ancient sears cast iron farm motor, a hernia inducing behemoth of cast iron and copper, with a treadmill motor and a KB motor controller. i picked up the motor locally for 30 bucks but no controller board and i had a KB motor controller from ebay for 80 bucks. I have tested without load and it seems right. looking into putting a tach in the KB box or use arduino. looking forward to seeing your progress. I have my way tube in evaporust now. used a length of pvc with a glued cap on one end and a cleanout plug on the other. works well.

[badtheba]

re: treadmill motor. so, I am in the process of putting my 10er back in service and i am replacing the motor that came with it which is an ancient sears cast iron farm motor, a hernia inducing behemoth of cast iron and copper, with a treadmill motor and a KB motor controller. i picked up the motor locally for 30 bucks but no controller board and i had a KB motor controller from ebay for 80 bucks. I have tested without load and it seems right. looking into putting a tach in the KB box or use arduino. looking forward to seeing your progress. I have my way tube in evaporust now. used a length of pvc with a glued cap on one end and a cleanout plug on the other. works well.

The one I ended up with will be almost a direct swap as far as the mounting bracket and shaft goes. I was in the garage when I saw your reply so I snapped a pick of my lineup of options. The AC Baldor (far right) is a 1.5HP 3450RPM 110/220V. The large Delco motor all the way to the left is really too big (physically) for the Shopsmith it came on. It's 1/2HP 1725RPM, but has a 13/16" shaft with an aftermarket triple pulley. The DC Baldor is the one I'm going to attempt to use. The 3rd from left is the 1/2HP GE that came on the 10ER I'm rebuilding. The dark green one on the floor in the back is a decent 2HP treadmill motor, but as it has a threaded shaft I'm not really interested in doing anything with it now. I got it because it was free.

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And here's the 2.4HP Baldor bracket matchup. The bracket is almost the exact width as the mounting plate.

IMG_20180304_194943732.jpg (597.5 KiB) Viewed 11339 times

I'm going to attempt to use and enclose the electronics that came with it, but there will probably be a lot to be desired as treadmill controllers are generally pretty slow to start. The power board does have a pot on it to increase the speed recovery once it senses a large load though, so that might be nice to play with.

[badtheba]

I got to work on my bench tonight, went and found an old 15' long 2x8 in my dad's barn that was heavy, dense, and oversized. I'm going to put 2 planks side by side with a 1/4-3/8" gap pretty much like the legs originally called for. Then I'll place my laminated top on top of the bench with a short T bar screwed to the underside down the middle between the planks. I'll route out the boards for the T bar and make recesses wherever there is a screw head.

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Because of how I had to cut the desktop with it already having a rubber edge banding, I decided to add a board to the back and cut the same radius on its ends as the other corners, about 1 3/4". To compensate for the rounded corners, I made the bench top wider than the planks and centered the pivot base on the overall top. I'll be staining this board and attaching it to the back with glue and Festool Domino biscuits.

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