Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:

algale wrote:You are correct that, when tilting the table to make a bevel cut, there is a theoretical maximum work piece length because the work piece eventually hits the floor. The maximum length is a function of the bevel angle. But at a 45 degree bevel, I believe the maximum length is around 4 feet.

That is true with a 510 or 520. Not so with a Mark 5 or V 500.

Are you saying you can cut unlimited length bevels with a 500 or that the maximum length is longer or shorter?

Thank you for the response

I was thinking of the tilt of the table being left to right (looking at the machine)

In this case I would figure the distance from the fence at the edge of the table to the blade is about 12 In

Does that make sense?

True with a 500. The 510 and 520 have floating table that tilt with the main table and can be extended with tubes, which allows a fence to be set further away. But you don't necessarily need to use the fence when beveling. If you are beveling stock that is wide enough, using the rip fence may makes sense. If you are beveling narrow stock, a miter gauge with an extension is called for IMO.

algale wrote:

JPG wrote:

algale wrote:You are correct that, when tilting the table to make a bevel cut, there is a theoretical maximum work piece length because the work piece eventually hits the floor. The maximum length is a function of the bevel angle. But at a 45 degree bevel, I believe the maximum length is around 4 feet.

That is true with a 510 or 520. Not so with a Mark 5 or V 500.

Are you saying you can cut unlimited length bevels with a 500 or that the maximum length is longer or shorter?

Referring to the width(fence to blade) as a length is confusing. Referring to the tube length that limits that does make sense. In any event the floor is the absolute limit.

Yes the '500' limit is indeed the table width. With the secondary slot(included on some early versions) that can be extended somewhat. However maximum depth of cut soon enters the picture.

Bottom line is, the SS M5/V500 has limited bevel cutting width.

But, adding a jig to hold the workpiece at a 45° angle eliminates that. The limit then becomes what the jig and/or the operator can control.

If the workpiece isn’t too thick, you can bevel it without ever tilting the table. Just cut it square, and then add the bevel with a V-groove molder bit. Or use a router chamfer bit, or a V-groove shaper bit, in drill-press mode. Quite a few ways to skin that cat.

If the piece is that long I would use a track saw or a tool that doesnt require special att to the weight of the stock being cut, why would you want to try and support a huge piece on a angle when you can lay it flat ?

JMO

BuckeyeDennis wrote:If the workpiece isn’t too thick, you can bevel it without ever tilting the table. Just cut it square, and then add the bevel with a V-groove molder bit. Or use a router chamfer bit, or a V-groove shaper bit, in drill-press mode. Quite a few ways to skin that cat.

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Like !

Hobbyman2 wrote:If the piece is that long I would use a track saw or a tool that doesnt require special att to the weight of the stock being cut, why would you want to try and support a huge piece on a angle when you can lay it flat ?

JMO

I did not say it was the 'best' alternative.



Besides the question had to do with the SS. Suggesting using different tools is an aversion to the original goal(using the SS).


In any event the limitation has been illustrated and defined.

JPG wrote:

Hobbyman2 wrote:If the piece is that long I would use a track saw or a tool that doesnt require special att to the weight of the stock being cut, why would you want to try and support a huge piece on a angle when you can lay it flat ?

JMO

I did not say it was the 'best' alternative.



Besides the question had to do with the SS. Suggesting using different tools is an aversion to the original goal(using the SS).


In any event the limitation has been illustrated and defined.

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Maybe if a sled was involved where the stock could be clamped,,,,, the angle wouldnt be as much of a issue, I dont use one ,,just dont have the room to set up any thing permanent,,,, they are a great safety piece that opens up a lot of options .

I've ripped 8/4 oak in a single cut on my mk5 510 table saw without problems. 1 1/8 hp motor. Slow feed, sharp blade. I can't speak to other wood types. You could make the 2" cut in several passes on the TS or use a bandsaw with a larger resaw blade if you find power is an issue. You'll need an outfeed support for something heavy. The extension table and tubes will help stabilize the main table when working with heavy pieces when making straight rip cuts. What you asked can be done.

What other tools do you want to use that the ss offers? If you know you only need 1-2 then stand alone might be better. That said, I've had my 510 for a year and find I'm using it more and more in ways I never expected I'd use it for. Having the options that the machine offers opens doors. The drill press mode is fantastic. I use the bandsaw several times a week. The disc sander saves a lot of time cleaning up pieces.

Ripping bevels on large pieces is not something I've had to do but can be done. There are many ways to skin a cat, as folks have pointed out. I have ripped smaller pieces at a bevel and cut compound miters without any issues.



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