Shopsmith Forums

I was looking at the alignment and I have to say my guess would have been that they would not line up that well. Now I have to wonder, did you get lucky or are shopsmiths made that well????

Did you have any plans if that alignment were off?

If you shorten up the drive train and get that as compact as you can how much room do you think is left headstock to headstock for center turning?

Right now I'm getting this picture in my mind of someone doing this with a 10ER, well that someone is really me but I don't want to go there since mine is still waiting for finishing the painting and assembly.... It would be really easy to slip a second headstock on and well I will not go there cause I might not know enough about the subject to know if that could be done off the end for bowl turning.

Anyway I really like that you are posting these creative ideas, thank you!

Ed

Killing two birds with one countershaft! Good thinking!

Lazy? I think not!

Simon-E?

Ed I really didn't have much of a plan if they did not line up. The only solution I had was that Simon was willing to let me try several headstocks if necessary. He has quite a few and from the looks of things probably one from most eras of SS. JPG it's Simon in Anaheim Ca. Pretty amazing assortment of parts etc. He swapped out the single bearing quill and put in one of his rebuilt two bearing units. I put a dial indicator on it and it's within the tolerances of the new ones I get from the MS. I think this is a testament to how well built the SS really is. I expected some variance and would have settled for close but they line up perfectly. One other suprised for me was how light weight the headstock is when stripped to just the quill. I should have weighed it just for grins. We tested the band saw with the speed reducer yesterday by cutting some aluminum 1/2" plate for an underwater camera housing and it works perfectly. With all the pulley reduction it doesn't even whimper. The next step would be to see how much dinero it would be to get longer tubes to increase the center to center distance. That will probably have to wait until I need it.
Paul

The question was asked about how far between centers using the second headstock as a tailstock. It comes out to 17 1/2 inches. It is far enough apart to mount the duplicator which is good because I have an immediate need to it. It is not far enough apart to do a project I need to start in the near future though which is turning some newel posts and stiles for a staIrcase. I am working on longer way tubes. It appears that they will need to be in the 96 inch range to allow for a 48" newel post. The wall thickness on my tubes is 0.100 inches. I am hoping that 0.250 wall will be enough to eliminate and flexing at that length. At this point I am planning on cold rolled steel and not chrome moly. Chrome moly would be optimum but over the top on price.
Paul

Paul, could the space between the band saw and headstock be less with a shaft in consequence ?

masonsailor2 wrote:The question was asked about how far between centers using the second headstock as a tailstock. It comes out to 17 1/2 inches. It is far enough apart to mount the duplicator which is good because I have an immediate need to it. It is not far enough apart to do a project I need to start in the near future though which is turning some newel posts and stiles for a staIrcase. I am working on longer way tubes. It appears that they will need to be in the 96 inch range to allow for a 48" newel post. The wall thickness on my tubes is 0.100 inches. I am hoping that 0.250 wall will be enough to eliminate and flexing at that length. At this point I am planning on cold rolled steel and not chrome moly. Chrome moly would be optimum but over the top on price.
Paul

Paul,
If you go with the longer tubes and encounter too much flexing, try adding a second carriage and run two tubes or round bar down to a jig attached to the bench tubes.
I did the same years ago with a double 10ER set up and it worked perfect. I simply attached the two bar stock rods to a second main table which I turned upside down and clamped it down to the two plank boards of the machine.
Everything remained adj.

Mike

This may be coming to late but,
From what I saw in the video why couldn't you have the plywood platform connect between two SS's this way the power unit wouldn't take up all the work space.
[[SS--pulley Platform--SS frame with head stock]]
You would then have the whole working area of a normal SS.

I want to make something like this for the lathe. I don't have easy access to a bunch of stripped down headstocks though... I was thinking about putting some bearings and a spindle in a SS lathe tailstock (since those are readily available and cheap on ebay) but I'm not sure if that would be stiff enough. Thoughts?

Now that I have the PP headstock I have found another use for the reducer. It turns out that when using the reducer between the band saw on the left side output the shaft is turning at exactly the range of disc sanding. Now I have the band saw on the left and disc sander on the right and no need to make speed changes. I have been leaving that machine permanently set up in that configuration.
Paul