Non woodworking uses for a shopsmith

[robinson46176]

Another non-woodworking (mostly) use for a Shopsmith...
One of several hats I wore for many years was a sharpening service mostly operated along with our store.
While I did about anything that came in the door I didn't generally do carbide work or saws in general for that matter, just didn't want to get into it. Too much extra expense and I didn't really have the time for it. Too much else to do that paid better.
I needed to stay with items that were quick, high volume and profitable. The big 4 were scissors, pinking shears, chainsaws and lawn mower blades. Over the years thousands and thousands of scissors and chainsaw chains.
In relation to this thread I am trying to get things sat back up to do some sharpening again. All of this medical stuff is sucking off too much of my fun funds.
I'm trying to set it up now so that a number of functions will be Shopsmith based. I think that the variable speed and accurate feeds (quill and table lift) will be worth the effort to convert some of the stuff. I have some other ideas for some odd stuff as well.
I'll try to remember to take pictures.

[rjent]

I LIKE the Drill-press!
Is that an "original" light?
Looks like it.

I used my MK 7 to clean and polish 10ER tubes.

Finally, someone using a M7 to refurbish a REAL ShopSmith!

(I'm retiring to my "flameproof" bunker now.

steve

I used the Mark 7 extensively, and it was invaluable, on the rebuild of the 10ER.

I guess I am invisible ....

[Sherlock]

There are some interesting ideas in this post. Thought I would add another that has worked well for me of late. Cutting Styrofoam insulation. Or maybe it is so obvious that no one mentioned it. Generally the large sheets, will cut with a knife or score and break but the small stuff nothing works better than the Shopsmith. My old way was the table saw which was dusty and melted the Styrofoam to the side of the blade. I have an old set of blades for the purpose so not a huge problem just time and mess. Enter the Shopsmith, just dial down the speed, no more melting and hook up the excellent dust collection system, no more dust. I do use the old Sears shop vac for a bit more suction and ease of dumping the fines. Anyway, if you haven’t thought about it, there it is. What a relief not to have Styrofoam dust floating all over the garage (which cannot be swept when it takes a charge). Enjoy...

[rpd]

When I was making the doll's bed for the grand daughter this Christmas I used my Shopsmith bandsaw to cut the mattress from an old foam mattress topper. Worked great.

[Sherlock]

Was cutting out plugs for foundation vents with this cold weather of late. The cold weather is gone, at least for awhile but the wind will probably blow them away. But I have more...

[highpockets1658]

I have used mine with wire brushes to remove rust and burnt cooking residue off cast iron skillets when getting them ready to re-season. Burned them in the fire pit, let them cool and rust then shined them up. Some look like brand new.

[chapmanruss]

Like Dick and John I use my Shopsmith Mark 5 520 which has now been upgraded to a Mark 7 to restore Shopsmiths. I am almost finished with my 21st restoration. I polish the tubes with a setup almost the same as John's. I use a pipe plug attached with a Router Chuck and a board with small wheels on the extension table. A lot of wire brushing & polishing wheels for parts and most recently used the drill press and jig saw (without the upper arm) to make two Model 10 blade guard splitters. The one below is for S/N 1077 shown on S/N 4708. Note the narrower distance between the slot and leading edge. This was required because the 1077 blade guard has a shallower splitter slot. I did not want to cut down an existing splitter and I was already short two splitters for the upper Blade Gruards I already have.

Custom Splitter for S/N 1077

IMG_1410r.jpg (218.5 KiB) Viewed 8752 times

On a Jig Saw I restored a couple of years ago it was missing the Sabre Saw Guide so using my Mark 5 I made the replacement shown below. It's not round like the original but is just a functional.

Saber Saw Guides

11 100 4 and 5c.jpg (222.57 KiB) Viewed 8752 times

It's time to start polishing some Model 10 way tubes and than I can start assembling S/N 1077

P.S. Nice thread, thanks for bringing it back up

[skou]

OK, my older brother just found a friend from High
School. We lived in the San Jose area back then,
and now live in the Phoenix area. Hasn't seen the
guy in 44 years! He is in Tucson. (He makes the
3rd or 4th person I knew in Sunnyvale, to move to
Arizona.) One of them was an old math teacher,
from junior high.

Cut to the end of the story, we are assembling a
Model 10 to give him. The set of way tubes we're
using, have a wee bit of surface rust on them.

4 jaw chuck on the headstock, a piece of plywood,
with a hole the right size clamped to the tailstock

The 4 jaw chuck BARELY fits the way tubes. There
was a 1/32 th inch gap between the jaws. Sanded
the tubes smooth, and filed out any dings.

Metal legs, casters, speedchanger, and a few other
goodies. He wanted a lathe. He's getting a LOT
more.

steve

[BuckeyeDennis]

OK, my older brother just found a friend from High
School. We lived in the San Jose area back then,
and now live in the Phoenix area. Hasn't seen the
guy in 44 years! He is in Tucson. (He makes the
3rd or 4th person I knew in Sunnyvale, to move to
Arizona.) One of them was an old math teacher,
from junior high.

Cut to the end of the story, we are assembling a
Model 10 to give him. The set of way tubes we're
using, have a wee bit of surface rust on them.

4 jaw chuck on the headstock, a piece of plywood,
with a hole the right size clamped to the tailstock

The 4 jaw chuck BARELY fits the way tubes. There
was a 1/32 th inch gap between the jaws. Sanded
the tubes smooth, and filed out any dings.

Metal legs, casters, speedchanger, and a few other
goodies. He wanted a lathe. He's getting a LOT
more.

steve

That’s a mighty nice gift, Steve!