Shopsmith Forums

A while back I took advantage of the Shopsmith sale on bandsaw blades. I have been doing some resawing and ripping with no problems. Today I wanted to do some intricate work so I put on the 1/8 inch blade. I tried all sorts of the tricks of the trade but it just wouldn't track. It moved to the outside and once popped off before I could stop the motor. I then pulled out a new set of tires and the same problem. All my blades from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch track fine just not the 1/8 inch. I am open for suggestions.

Bob
Willcox, AZ

Check upper wheel cant. With a 1/4" blade mounted, check to see that the BACK of the blade tracks 1/4" in from the back edge of the upper tire when properly tensioned. Increase cant if less than 1/4".

OK, I did a check and the 1/4 inch blade tracks just fine. Just for grins I pulled up an older carbon steel 1/8 inch blade and it also tracks just fine. I put the new premium 1/8 inch blade on and no it will not track. My gut feeling is that it might be the blade.

Bob
Willcox, AZ

Assuming tension has been properly set, I agree that your tracking issue seems to be caused by the blade.

Suggest you measure the blade length as 72". If too tough to measure, lay an old blade in top of the new one.

How does one adjust the cant? I don't see an adjustment. I have been having a problem just since installing a new blade but I do not understand how a blade can cause the tracking problem I am having. My blade is not tracking 1/4" as you posted and jumps out of the guides when not cutting.

Also, how much should the upper wheel wiggle whith no blade installed. I am measuring 0.055".

Thanks,
Russ

radarguy wrote:How does one adjust the cant? I don't see an adjustment. I have been having a problem just since installing a new blade but I do not understand how a blade can cause the tracking problem I am having. My blade is not tracking 1/4" as you posted and jumps out of the guides when not cutting.

Also, how much should the upper wheel wiggle whith no blade installed. I am measuring 0.055".

Thanks,
Russ

Are you ready for this?

Remove the upper wheel.

Place a pipe over the shaft.

Push up on the free end of the pipe.

This basically bends the arm on which the shaft is mounted.

A way(non-ss)to check cant is to lay a straight edge(a 4' level will work)against the upper wheel just off the hub. The straight edge should clear the top of the lower wheel about 1/8" to 1/4".


Now does 'just fine' mean the back of the old 1/4" blade and old 1/8" blade are tracking 1/4" from the back of the tire? If so, the cant is likely correct.

Not 'revealed' yet is the source of the 'premium 1/8" blade'. If SS, I would be addressing this issue with CS.

Like Chuck, I be suspicious of the length. Is the upper wheel at its height limit with the 'new' blade tensioned. If so the blade is not being tensioned. It may be too long.

radarguy wrote:How does one adjust the cant? I don't see an adjustment. I have been having a problem just since installing a new blade but I do not understand how a blade can cause the tracking problem I am having. My blade is not tracking 1/4" as you posted and jumps out of the guides when not cutting.

Also, how much should the upper wheel wiggle whith no blade installed. I am measuring 0.055".

Thanks,
Russ

Based on what you have reported here, I would not be so anxious to adjust the cant. It has been my experience that when the cant is an issue, it is an issue with all blades that you mount. Furthermore, it is my opinion that 1/4" is only for reference and not to be measured.

With the Shopsmith band saw, the blade should tend to run toward the back of the wheels. Incorrect cant will either cause that tendency to be excessive or the blade will run toward the front of the wheels and (if bad enough) come off the front.

The tracking bearings are there to establish a limit as to how far back the blade will track on a band saw that is otherwise running properly. The tension adjustments, the guide block adjustments and the bearing positions should all be verified before even thinking about bending the upper wheel to change tracking.

Your wiggle of .055" does not seem alarming at all and I do not believe is an issue.

Spend a Saturday morning working on bearing positions and guide blocks and I believe you will find all the issues resolved.

Novice questions:

I see that Shopsmith recommends Cool Blocks for use with their 1/16" blade. Could the 1/8" blade be just narrow and squirrelly enough that it would benefit from Cool Blocks, too?

Regarding blade length: If it's wrong, wouldn't it be impossible to tension properly as shown by the red indicator?

Cool Blocks is really a personal preference.

Blade length can be a slight variable but only slight. Yes, if it is too long you will not be able to get the appropriate tension. If it is too short, you won't be able to mount it at all.

Nominally 72".

davebodner wrote:Novice questions:

I see that Shopsmith recommends Cool Blocks for use with their 1/16" blade. Could the 1/8" blade be just narrow and squirrelly enough that it would benefit from Cool Blocks, too?

Regarding blade length: If it's wrong, wouldn't it be impossible to tension properly as shown by the red indicator?

Question is, what is restricting the wheel support arm? The blade, or the free movement limit. Either will cause the tension indicator to move with adjustment of the screw. 72 +- 1/2" is the stated tolerance.

Cool blocks will work with any size blade but more benefit is derived from them with the narrow blade, as this allows the blocks to fully press against the sides of the blade including the teeth.

I consider 1/16" blades to be a bit of wishful thinking!