10E Lathe, spindle & tailstock alignment?

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Cavediver
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10E Lathe, spindle & tailstock alignment?

Post by Cavediver »

Is there any way to adjust the alignment between the spindle and the tailstock on a 10E? When placing the point of a drive center on the spindle next to the point of a dead center in the tailstock, the spindle point is almost 1/8" low, and about 1/16 off to one side.

The MT socket in the tailstock is clean and operating correctly, and the centers all appear to be true.

In the grand scheme of things, how much of a difference does this really make? I'd like to be able to install a 3/4" forstner bit in the tailstock to drill a hole in my turning blank, and then be able to turn that blank unsupported, at least until I can finish it enough to secure it with a live center.
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

The tailstock has a "floating center" that holds the morse taper center. Loosen the nut on the back side, then you can move that center around to line it up, then tighten it back down. One problem I continually run into though, is tightening the floating center moves it out of alignment, so be aware of that. I'm sure a large washer between the nut and tailstock would help, but I don't have on that fits and haven't bothered to get/make one.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Cavediver
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Post by Cavediver »

That's got to be one of the improvements made to the 10ER, because the 10E doesn't have that feature. The MT is bored directly in the tailstock.

At this point, I don't know enough about turning to know if that's a problem or not.

Any other possible adjustments I'm missing?
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

Cavediver wrote:That's got to be one of the improvements made to the 10ER, because the 10E doesn't have that feature. The MT is bored directly in the tailstock.

At this point, I don't know enough about turning to know if that's a problem or not.

Any other possible adjustments I'm missing?
Oh, yeah... I forgot that the 10E didn't have the floating center. I don't know what to tell you, then - regarding alignment or if it's a problem the way it is. Maybe someone else can help.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

I used a 10# sledge hammer to adjust mine :) I don't think it would matter much if you are turning bowls or pens and stuff.
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
Cavediver
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Post by Cavediver »

fredsheldon wrote:I used a 10# sledge hammer to adjust mine :) I don't think it would matter much if you are turning bowls or pens and stuff.
Lol!
Pipes, actually. I need to be able to drill a stepped bowl (2 different forstner bits) and keep the rest of the turning concentric with that hole. Until now I've been boring the hole on a drill press and then putting the block in the lathe chuck, using a large cone-shaped live center to help keep the turnings concentric. I'm hoping to skip the drill press and do it all on the lathe; it'd make life much, much easier.
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

Just get an ER tailstock off eBay. They're cheap enough.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Check the junction between the tailstock and the way tubes. Also the hinge pins.:)

Other than that, how good are you at bending CI?:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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skou
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Post by skou »

heathicus wrote:Just get an ER tailstock off eBay. They're cheap enough.
I wouldn't just get one, I'd get 2, and with the extension table for each, as well.
Put a tailstock and ext table on the head (left) end, for cutting long pieces of plywood.

steve
Cavediver
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Post by Cavediver »

heathicus wrote:Just get an ER tailstock off eBay. They're cheap enough.
Yeah, that's looking like the best option. I was just checking to make sure I'm not missing some other form of adjustment.
JPG40504 wrote:Other than that, how good are you at bending CI?:D
I'm better at gluing it back together than I am at bending it :D
skou wrote:I wouldn't just get one, I'd get 2, and with the extension table for each, as well.
Put a tailstock and ext table on the head (left) end, for cutting long pieces of plywood.
steve
Also a wise idea, though I don't see myself using this one as a saw. The whole tilting-table thing gives me the creeps.

Good 'nuff, and thanks for the advise. I'll start hunting one down shortly!
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