A simple variation of home made jointer blade sharpening jig.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:15 am

chris jay wrote:I'm not sure if I understand the adjustment. It looks as if the bolt and dowel pins the block in place, and with the miter slot being used seems like it won't allow any horizontal movement towards the sanding disk

Tis the disk and paper that cause the 'issue'(and maybe some quill bearing play).

bobgroh · Post by **bobgroh** » Mon Dec 09, 2013 2:02 pm

chris jay wrote:I'm not sure if I understand the adjustment. It looks as if the bolt and dowel pins the block in place, and with the miter slot being used seems like it won't allow any horizontal movement towards the sanding disk

There are several adjustments to make - the initial adjustment is to align the jig (with a blade in place) so that the blade just touches the sanding disk as you push it from front to back or back to front. You loosen up the bolt and rotate the entire block to do this. Basically you are setting the blade and block so the blade edge is parallel to the plane of the sanding disk. Once you have done that, you lock down the bolt. You should not have to adjust it again.

Start Point: After this, you are ready to grind your blades. Insert a blade snugly down into the slot and lock it down with the screw. Set the table height so the edge of the blade will pass over a spot on the conical disk about 1" or 2" over the center point (not critical). I then slide the carriage so that the blade edge is really close to the sanding disk - just nudging it. All of this with the power off, by the way. Now lock down the carriage and the table height. Pull the fixture back away from the disk.

Oh, and make sure the table is set at zero degrees.

Now turn the power on and adjust the speed to proper setting for sanding. Slowly push the fixture forward and backwards. Either adjust the carriage or the table height (baby increments!!!) as you sweep the fixture back and forth. I prefer varying the table height as a large change in table height is a small change in the horizontal. Take as little as possible off the blade to prolong blade life. You will want to repeat the process for each blade (i.e. at 'Start Point' above).

Hope this answers your question.

chris jay · Post by **chris jay** » Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:21 pm

bobgroh wrote:There are several adjustments to make - the initial adjustment is to align the jig (with a blade in place) so that the blade just touches the sanding disk as you push it from front to back or back to front. You loosen up the bolt and rotate the entire block to do this. Basically you are setting the blade and block so the blade edge is parallel to the plane of the sanding disk. Once you have done that, you lock down the bolt. You should not have to adjust it again.

Start Point: After this, you are ready to grind your blades. Insert a blade snugly down into the slot and lock it down with the screw. Set the table height so the edge of the blade will pass over a spot on the conical disk about 1" or 2" over the center point (not critical). I then slide the carriage so that the blade edge is really close to the sanding disk - just nudging it. All of this with the power off, by the way. Now lock down the carriage and the table height. Pull the fixture back away from the disk.

Oh, and make sure the table is set at zero degrees.

Now turn the power on and adjust the speed to proper setting for sanding. Slowly push the fixture forward and backwards. Either adjust the carriage or the table height (baby increments!!!) as you sweep the fixture back and forth. I prefer varying the table height as a large change in table height is a small change in the horizontal. Take as little as possible off the blade to prolong blade life. You will want to repeat the process for each blade (i.e. at 'Start Point' above).

Hope this answers your question.

I used to sharpen saw blades at a shop during my teenage years so I know a little. From the look of the picks, the block that holds the blade can't slide with the bolt, and dowel there unless the block were slotted (or at least that's the way I think it works) So where am I wrong?

bobgroh · Post by **bobgroh** » Mon Dec 09, 2013 9:43 pm

chris jay wrote:.... From the look of the picks, the block that holds the blade can't slide with the bolt, and dowel there unless the block were slotted (or at least that's the way I think it works) So where am I wrong?

Got you. No, the hole for the bolt is just overly big so that there is a bit of wiggle room. Sort of forgot what I used - maybe a 1/4-20 bolt in a 3/8" OD hole. I thought about slotting it but decided to just go with a big hole.

Bob

chris jay · Post by **chris jay** » Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:01 pm

bobgroh wrote:Got you. No, the hole for the bolt is just overly big so that there is a bit of wiggle room. Sort of forgot what I used - maybe a 1/4-20 bolt in a 3/8" OD hole. I thought about slotting it but decided to just go with a big hole.

Bob

Now I gotcha! Im a little slow