Page 3 of 9
Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 10:43 pm
by reible
The bare metal that I cleaned up needs to be protected so I reach for my can of
[ATTACH]17110[/ATTACH]
It is now setting drying over night. Reassembly come up soon.
Ed
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:27 am
by rlkeeney
Are you saying that Penetrol will keep it from rusting or are you just prepping the casters for painting?
I really liked the idea of using a screw into wood to get the new hole in the right place. I've been trying to come up with a way to do this and never thought of the screw.
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:28 am
by rlkeeney
I ordered some of the new casters last night.
Shopsmith 3" caster upgrade as it unfolds
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:31 am
by dusty
Forum comments and pictures have clearly indicated that there are at least two different versions of the caster assembly. There is one with the control lever that is closer to the end than the other version.
Do we have a way of determining which is which. I believe the version that Ed is modifying and using as the subject of this thread is the older version.
I suspect that it is a version never built by Shopsmith and that this may be the reason why the 3" caster installation documentation does not address the problems related to installing 3" wheels on some caster assemblies.
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 10:52 am
by camerio
dusty wrote:Forum comments and pictures have clearly indicated that there are at least two different versions of the caster assembly. There is one with the control lever that is closer to the end than the other version.
Do we have a way of determining which is which. I believe the version that Ed is modifying and using as the subject of this thread is the older version.
I suspect that it is a version never built by Shopsmith and that this may be the reason why the 3" caster installation documentation does not address the problems related to installing 3" wheels on some caster assemblies.
I have measured the distance between the control lever and the cam part that raises the Mark V (I have looked for the name of that part but did not find it) its 2 inches. So I would be good for the wheel's upgrade.
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:11 am
by dusty
camerio wrote:I have measured the distance between the control lever and the cam part that raises the Mark V (I have looked for the name of that part but did not find it) its 2 inches. So I would be good for the wheel's upgrade.
Thank you for your comment but this was not my purpose. I wonder why some caster assemblies are compatible to the new 3" wheels while others are not. I suspect that early vintage caster assemblies are the ones that are not compatible (without modification). I also suspect that those that are not compatible are pre-Shopsmith (Magna, Yuba, etc).
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:34 am
by JPG
dusty wrote:Thank you for your comment but this was not my purpose. I wonder why some caster assemblies are compatible to the new 3" wheels while others are not. I suspect that early vintage caster assemblies are the ones that are not compatible (without modification). I also suspect that those that are not compatible are pre-Shopsmith (Magna, Yuba, etc).
And Shopsmith, Inc.!:rolleyes:
Ask Ed!:D
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:36 am
by reible
The shopsmith casters I have on three of my machines are all the same, that being with the foot pedal very close to the cam. I'm going to say that my forth machine which is up-north will have the same thing. They are all mid 1970's to very early 1980's.
I found my paper work when I added my casters, the part number is 505592 the date on the paper work is early 1979.
As to what year they changed I do not know. My well worn 1996 catalog pictures ones that look like they have the larger space and a part number of 555354, which is the current number.
So far the only thing I've done is make this change to the rod. I will not just drill the holes in the legs per the shopsmith paper work until I can confirm there are no other issues with this vintage of machine and casters.
I'll put thing together today and see if I have time to address positioning on the leg....
Ed
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:39 am
by JPG
rlkeeney wrote:Are you saying that Penetrol will keep it from rusting or are you just prepping the casters for painting?
I really liked the idea of using a screw into wood to get the new hole in the right place. I've been trying to come up with a way to do this and never thought of the screw.
Yes that is a good method.
I would have set it loosely in a v-block in a drill press vise, aligned the old shaft hole to vertical by inserting the mounted drill bit into the original hole, then tightening the vise. Retract the bit and position the shaft for the new hole location.
Think the results would be close either way!:)
Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:56 am
by reible
rlkeeney wrote:Are you saying that Penetrol will keep it from rusting or are you just prepping the casters for painting?
I really liked the idea of using a screw into wood to get the new hole in the right place. I've been trying to come up with a way to do this and never thought of the screw.
I believe it was from Ed in Tampa that I learned about this product and now it is my go to product for projects like this. It can be added to paint but I have never done that. I use it right out of the can per the bare metal instructions and it has worked for me.