Hello,
I haven't used my equipment in a few years and now developed some rust. What is the best way to remove the rust and keep from returning?
Rust
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
My Joiner sat for several years and was badly rusted and slightly pitted from rust when I returned. Chemical methods were not enough. I put a nylon brush wheel in a electric drill and brushed it out and then with synthetic steel wool buffed it back out to smooth by hand. And then Wax, Wax, Wax, Wax, and Wax until the metal has taken all it can absorb with a good coat left on top.
Enjoy a little sawdust therapy
Walt
520, Joiner, band saw, Planer, Dust Collector, 6: Belt Sander, OPR, Scroll Saw
Walt
520, Joiner, band saw, Planer, Dust Collector, 6: Belt Sander, OPR, Scroll Saw
Rust removal
Hi,
For rust on the tubes, jointer surface, the black bars on the casters, etc, I use Mothers Chrome and Aluminum polish. I get it at one of the auto parts stores, Checker, I think. Use a Scotch Brite pad.
Unless you're a fan of dull gray metal, never use naval jelly.
If the tubes are really rusted, you can resurface them, but I'd only do this if the above fails. Use 320 grit wet dry sandpaper (auto parts store) and the Mothers. Keep it wet and work the sandpaper like a shoeshine rag, keeping the swirls perpendicular to the tubes as opposed to parallel.
If you have rust on the bottom of the Mark V's legs, I would put some cardboard on the floor, put the main and extension tables at the same height, then flip the Mark V upside down so it's legs are sticking straight up, kind of like a dead horse. Take the casters off so you can really go after the rust with sandpaper. After you get it all, use the touch up paint Shopsmith sells. It will perfectly match and you'll be like brand new.
Good Luck,
Jim
PS- A few years ago, I bought, refurbished and re-sold about 35 Mark V's as well as hundreds of SPT's. What I'm sharing with you above was learned the hard way.
For rust on the tubes, jointer surface, the black bars on the casters, etc, I use Mothers Chrome and Aluminum polish. I get it at one of the auto parts stores, Checker, I think. Use a Scotch Brite pad.
Unless you're a fan of dull gray metal, never use naval jelly.
If the tubes are really rusted, you can resurface them, but I'd only do this if the above fails. Use 320 grit wet dry sandpaper (auto parts store) and the Mothers. Keep it wet and work the sandpaper like a shoeshine rag, keeping the swirls perpendicular to the tubes as opposed to parallel.
If you have rust on the bottom of the Mark V's legs, I would put some cardboard on the floor, put the main and extension tables at the same height, then flip the Mark V upside down so it's legs are sticking straight up, kind of like a dead horse. Take the casters off so you can really go after the rust with sandpaper. After you get it all, use the touch up paint Shopsmith sells. It will perfectly match and you'll be like brand new.
Good Luck,
Jim
PS- A few years ago, I bought, refurbished and re-sold about 35 Mark V's as well as hundreds of SPT's. What I'm sharing with you above was learned the hard way.
Take a look at http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... pening.htm . Toward the end of the session, I talk about something caled a "surface-conditioning belt." These are also available for rotary tools, such as a sanding disc. You can buy a surface-conditioning disc for your hand-held electric drill or polisher. I've used them for 20 years and I swear by them.
With all good wishes,
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com