Homemade Lathe Chuck

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bluekayak
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Homemade Lathe Chuck

Post by bluekayak »

I had an extra faceplate for my lathe, and decided what I really needed was a chuck. Most of the time I am turning 1 1/2 inch stock so I just used a couple of 2X6 scraps and a hose clamp.

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After building it, I realized only the bottom 2 X 6 was necessary. I could have just split the bottom one and been done with it.

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One thing I wanted to be able to do is to use the chisel on the front part of the turning (not having it in the tailstock). It is a good idea to number one corner and put a corresponding number on the turning. That way you can put it back in the same corner if you take it out and discover it needs some touch up work. Also notice that the hose clamp has been shortened and turned the other direction.

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It also saved the day when my headstock chewed up a turning I was working on. I just clamped the partially completed turning in my homemade chuck and continued on with the turning.

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If you need a chuck of a specific size, and have a faceplate, this might work for you.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

That is an interesting solution, Jerry. I am glad it worked for you. Was it easy to get the "space" centered so your work piece was not eccentric? How did you do it?
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Be VERY CAREFUL of that spinning hose clamp.:eek:
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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bluekayak
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Post by bluekayak »

It ends up being a little eccentric, but gets centered as it turns. That is why I ended up putting a number in the bottom corner and a matching number on the stock being turned. Then if I want to put it back in the chuck, I am pretty close to where I left off.

I started with a rough circle of 2 X 6 that was slightly larger than the faceplate and turned that to match the faceplate. Then I screwed a second one to the first and turned it to match with an indentation for the hose clamp. The second one was cut in two on the diameter with the band saw and marked with 2 X 2 stock as near the center as I could get it. Then I glued and screwed one half the to first one and the second one it tightened down with the hose clamp.

If I was doing it again, I'd try just using one 2 X 6 and screwing one half to the faceplate. You could make these in different sizes and attach the one you need to the faceplate.

Certainly not as convenient as a self centering chuck, but an option if you do not have one.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN
bluekayak
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Post by bluekayak »

beeg wrote:Be VERY CAREFUL of that spinning hose clamp.:eek:
Yes. That is why I shortened it down, ground off the sharp edges, and turned in the opposite direction from the way I originally had it. Fastening down with duct tape might be a good option. Perhaps I should try to find a way to "bury" the screw.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN
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bucksaw
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Post by bucksaw »

beeg wrote:Be VERY CAREFUL of that spinning hose clamp.:eek:
I totally agree. Be very careful. When I was de-rusting/polishing the tubes on my shopsmith, a year ago, I used a clamp like yours and was not paying close enough attention to my hands and the screw head hit one of my fingers. Damaged a nerve and the finger hurt for about a month. The finger still feels like it is part numb but is fully functional.
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bluekayak
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Post by bluekayak »

Thanks Dave. Maybe I should scrap this idea, or find another way to hold the pieces together. The reason I turned the radiator hose around and shortened it is, duh, it hit me. Fortunately it was just the excess clamp material and not the screw.

Jerry Floren
St. Peter, MN
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

COULD ya recess that area, so that the clamp is just below the surface?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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henecle
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another option...

Post by henecle »

might be to increase the overall diameter of the chuck stock and cut a groove deep enough to recess the hose clamp. It could still be accessed to tighten yet be below the surface of the exterior.
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tkhudson
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Post by tkhudson »

henecle wrote:might be to increase the overall diameter of the chuck stock and cut a groove deep enough to recess the hose clamp. It could still be accessed to tighten yet be below the surface of the exterior.

Seems I saw a trick on TV where the turner attatched a piece of tape that would slap him on hand if he were getting close or he could see the tape... either way it would be a good warning. maybe something with a zip tie?
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