Pro table upgrade??

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jcmbs
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Pro table upgrade??

Post by jcmbs »

Hey folks I'm contemplating changing my Rigid TS 3650 contractor saw for an upgrade I have looked at the more expensive saws like Powermatic and delta unisaw, but given my 20x20 workshop and the 18 inch Woodmaster, Table saw and Shop smith I'm getting cramped. But I really would appreciate a more precise table saw system. I'm using a 1985 500 SS model and use it for everything but the TS and planing. I'd like to get some extra room and the price would be much less but is the performance anywhere close to the PM, Delta or Sawstop as I could never get the small 500 table to stay in alignment and it is just to small a surface? Has anyone found a way to safely miter or saw with the table tilted as it just seems to risky for long or tall cuts. Your advice/comments are aprreciated.
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dusty
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Pro Table Upgrade??

Post by dusty »

I believe the Pro Table Upgrade is worth every penny that you must spend to acquire it. But that is one persons opinion. The Pro Table definitely gives you more table space BUT how much more table do you really need?

I think we need to know more about what you create in your shop to be able to respond with anything more than just pride in what we already own.

With the Extension Table and Floating Table(s) (I have two) employed, the Mark V offers as much basic table space as most any shop saw. The short coming is in the outfeed table and there are ready solutions for that.

This forum contains many threads devoted to both of these topics. There is also at least one thread and a Sawdust Session that deals with the limitations of the tilted table to do bevels. Those limitations are also dealt with in that Sawdust Session - unless you are contemplating what I would call a production environment for bevel cuts.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

jcmbs wrote:Hey folks I'm contemplating changing my Rigid TS 3650 contractor saw for an upgrade I have looked at the more expensive saws like Powermatic and delta unisaw, but given my 20x20 workshop and the 18 inch Woodmaster, Table saw and Shop smith I'm getting cramped. But I really would appreciate a more precise table saw system. I'm using a 1985 500 SS model and use it for everything but the TS and planing. I'd like to get some extra room and the price would be much less but is the performance anywhere close to the PM, Delta or Sawstop as I could never get the small 500 table to stay in alignment and it is just to small a surface? Has anyone found a way to safely miter or saw with the table tilted as it just seems to risky for long or tall cuts. Your advice/comments are aprreciated.
Jcmbs
I think you should probably get a Unisaw or something like it. Truthfully if you are finding TS3650 not sufficient you won't be happy until you have one. I personally think the TS3650 a superior table saw, and without a doubt the finest in the contractor table saw line. I can't think of one thing the Unisaw can do that the TS3650 can't do.

Your concern about ripping miters or making bevel cuts with a tilt table makes me wonder. I rarely ever have to do this and I'm always wondering why some people find it a necessity. What are you doing the you need to cut bevels.

As for the space issue there is no magic answer. You either have the space or you have the tools sitting in the space. Everything is a compromise. If space is not a factor than individual machines are the way to go. If space is a serious factor then something like the Shopsmith is the way to go. At one time Shopsmith made financial sense but increased pricing has made that pretty much a none issue or even a negative.

Whatever you do make sure it is right for you. Don't let all the "experts" and "elitist" convince you that unless you have the finest and most costly you can't be a "real" woodworker. I know many production shops that turn out superior products that have machines the "elitist experts" would turn up their noses at.
Ed in Tampa
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soggysawdust
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Post by soggysawdust »

I recently added a Grizzly G0478 table saw to my shop and have really enjoyed the large table top and ease of doing miters and bevels. It's a 2hp Hybrid saw and about as much as my shop could handle size wise. Still have the Shopsmith 520 and use it for things other than table saw needs. Everyones mileage of course varies.

Phil in wind blown and soggy Washington
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jcmbs
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Post by jcmbs »

Thanks for the speedy replies, I have begun creating molding and may start mass producing via the Woodmaster 718, I have been able to get a straight line cut with a sled from MDF (limit is 8 foot with one person) and then gang rip to multiple widths for crown, base or any other molding pieces. However, I'm about to embark on a complete cabinet redo in the kitchen where we are turning a small living room and kitchen to one large 21x30 eat in kitchen with island, bar and wall of cabinets and pantry and oh don't forget the built in office. I agree as far as TS go the 3650 is outstanding but when you are joining up pieces for inset doors on a chest or tall shrunk the tolerances and vibration can get in the way. I considered trying a link belt but the poly v belt pulleys would need to be exchanged. I have begun really to build a large assortment of projects that range from pens, boxes, 8 foot turned posts (sections) outdoor furniture and now moving on to larger pieces such as chest of drawers, tables, cabinets. I may just keep the TS3650 but if things head the way they seem to an production demands increase I think the TS3650 may not be enough especially when it comes time to produce curved molding. Thanks

Sincerely

Jason
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

jcmbs wrote:Hey folks I'm contemplating changing my Rigid TS 3650 contractor saw for an upgrade I have looked at the more expensive saws like Powermatic and delta unisaw, but given my 20x20 workshop and the 18 inch Woodmaster, Table saw and Shop smith I'm getting cramped. But I really would appreciate a more precise table saw system. I'm using a 1985 500 SS model and use it for everything but the TS and planing. I'd like to get some extra room and the price would be much less but is the performance anywhere close to the PM, Delta or Sawstop as I could never get the small 500 table to stay in alignment and it is just to small a surface? Has anyone found a way to safely miter or saw with the table tilted as it just seems to risky for long or tall cuts. Your advice/comments are aprreciated.

Sounds like ya need to upgrade to the 520 table system. As for a more precise saw, that depends upon you with the setup and alignment.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

jcmbs wrote:Hey folks I'm contemplating changing my Rigid TS 3650 contractor saw for an upgrade I have looked at the more expensive saws like Powermatic and delta unisaw, but given my 20x20 workshop and the 18 inch Woodmaster, Table saw and Shop smith I'm getting cramped. But I really would appreciate a more precise table saw system. I'm using a 1985 500 SS model and use it for everything but the TS and planing. I'd like to get some extra room and the price would be much less but is the performance anywhere close to the PM, Delta or Sawstop as I could never get the small 500 table to stay in alignment and it is just to small a surface? Has anyone found a way to safely miter or saw with the table tilted as it just seems to risky for long or tall cuts. Your advice/comments are aprreciated.

Sounds like ya need to upgrade to the 520 table system. As for a more precise saw, that depends upon you with the setup and alignment.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

I am totally unfamiliar with the 500 table. I looked at a few when trying to add a second Mark V but am so happy with the 520 I couldn't seriously consider one. I did purchase a 510 which has been upgraded to a 520 PRO. Just the difference between the table stability from 510 to 520 and the PRO Fence is a major upgrade.

I am reminded of traveling academy I attended and finding myself as a 520 owner trying to work on a 510. I really found the 510 frustrating. One fellow working with me and I had lunch together mid day. After lunch he called his brother and twisted his arm to help fund the upgrade to the 520. Most of the fellows in the class were considering that upgrade and I have often wondered if others made the investment. I would never even consider going back.

The other side of the coin deals with just how big a table are you desiring. Dusty and others have devised terrific infeed and outfeed table extensions they are better equipped to discuss that portion of your question. The only thing I don't even attempt to do on my 520 is ripping large sheet goods. As I think about it I didn't like the old Delta table saw I owned before, for sheet goods either. That 35 year old table saw had a larger table but was far from stable. Good luck on devising the right solution for your needs. Jim
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Lakewood, Colorado:)

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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

jcmbs wrote:Thanks for the speedy replies, I have begun creating molding and may start mass producing via the Woodmaster 718, I have been able to get a straight line cut with a sled from MDF (limit is 8 foot with one person) and then gang rip to multiple widths for crown, base or any other molding pieces. However, I'm about to embark on a complete cabinet redo in the kitchen where we are turning a small living room and kitchen to one large 21x30 eat in kitchen with island, bar and wall of cabinets and pantry and oh don't forget the built in office. I agree as far as TS go the 3650 is outstanding but when you are joining up pieces for inset doors on a chest or tall shrunk the tolerances and vibration can get in the way. I considered trying a link belt but the poly v belt pulleys would need to be exchanged. I have begun really to build a large assortment of projects that range from pens, boxes, 8 foot turned posts (sections) outdoor furniture and now moving on to larger pieces such as chest of drawers, tables, cabinets. I may just keep the TS3650 but if things head the way they seem to an production demands increase I think the TS3650 may not be enough especially when it comes time to produce curved molding. Thanks

Sincerely

Jason
Jason
I fear you have been reading too many forums or mags. The poly v belt on the Rigid TS3650 is about the smoothest belt system made. I have played with enough 3650's to know they can pass the nickle test while actually cutting wood so vibration is not the problem.

However I can tell from what your saying that you have it in your mind that a Unisaw or Powermatic is what you need. Put yourself out of your misery go buy one. You will never be really happy until you do.

I know I thought I had to have one about 10 years ago. I had the money and was ready to buy when my Son in Law got one. I could hardly wait to go cut on it. The cut wasn't all the good. I was sure my idiot SIL had set it up wrong. I finally convinced him to let me have the saw so I could "tune it". And tune it I did. Know what SIL ended up having to sell the saw and I never even asked the price. I found out it wasn't the saw it was the hype that surrounds it.

Your Rigid TS3650 can and will do everything the Unisaw or Powermatic will do short of using a power feed. If you going to start power feeding then you need the added horsepower.

But like I said you will always wonder so do youself a favor go buy one and don't look back.
Ed in Tampa
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dusty
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Pro Table Upgrade??

Post by dusty »

After rereading some of these posts, I decided to take a new look at a couple of the larger table saws with the idea of putting one in my shop. My favorite has always been the Delta Unisaw. It is a beautiful machine; one that could probably make me give up my Shopsmith - if all I needed was a table saw.

How could you not like a Table Saw (36-L552) with a 31"x82" work surface and this doesn't include an out feed table. Add an out feed table that measures 4'x44". Accurate to 1/64" - I read somewhere. I think that was the 52" Beismeyer Rip Fence. You could not ask for much more.

Well, yes you could. You could be like me - you could be wishing you had a shop into which you could move that beast and still have room for something else. If you are managing a professional wood working shop you just may need (not want) something like this.

I am not a professional wood worker. I am a hobbyist working in a 20'x20' work shop that is really the "garage". With that Unisaw sitting in the middle, there would not be much room for anything else. I would still need a place for my sanding station, jointer, drill press, surface planer, lathe, horizontal boring machine, router table(s) and bandsaw.

There is no room for that in a home work shop - at least not mine. If you have the space for it all, I say go for it. I certainly would.

In my space I have accumulated a set of Shopsmith equipments and accessories that serve all of my wood working needs and given the size of my work space - I don't believe I could have a better set up.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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