Bandsaw Bearing Upgrade Problem

[tvidnoviciii]

There is no lock washer.

Ted

[Hobbyman2]

just looked at myn and the bottom roller doesnt have a grove ?

That is because thee has not replaced the single bearing with a pair of narrower ones.

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Your right ,,,,,but , if the grove on the tension adjusting wheel ,,,if it has one ,,,is still centered in its grove every thing else should line up

[JPG]

just looked at myn and the bottom roller doesnt have a grove ?

That is because thee has not replaced the single bearing with a pair of narrower ones.

================

Your right ,,,,,but , if the grove on the tension adjusting wheel ,,,if it has one ,,,is still centered in its grove every thing else should line up

Sayy whàaaa?

The REAR guide bearing will only guide the blade onto the upper wheel.

[Hobbyman2]

That is because thee has not replaced the single bearing with a pair of narrower ones.

================

Your right ,,,,,but , if the grove on the tension adjusting wheel ,,,if it has one ,,,is still centered in its grove every thing else should line up

Sayy whàaaa?

The REAR guide bearing will only guide the blade onto the upper wheel.

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Thats my point , if the upper and lower wheels are origional ,,, why would the blades not align in the groves properly , if the blade isnt riding in the grove on the rear ,,,possibly the wrong little guide in the wrong place,,it would suggest some thing not discussed in the topic. ? since I have never attempted this upgrade I was asking for my own knowledge .

[JPG]

The original OEM bearings do NOT have a groove. The bearings are minimally adjustable so there is nothing the bearings do to guarantee their location relative to the path of the blade.

i.e. the groove MUST be adjusted to the correct blade path, not the other way around.

The purpose of the guide bearings is only to position the back of the blade, not any other direction.

[Hobbyman2]

The original OEM bearings do NOT have a groove. The bearings are minimally adjustable so there is nothing the bearings do to guarantee their location relative to the path of the blade.

i.e. the groove MUST be adjusted to the correct blade path, not the other way around.

The purpose of the guide bearings is only to position the back of the blade, not any other direction.

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Right,,,,, no different than any other band saw ,,,,,so if the diameter of the wheels didnt change then the back guide wheel ,,,,{ since it is not adjustable},,,, should still be in line , thats what I was asking ,, was it still in alignment ,, or if it was possible he could have switched a guide wheel some where . are they they identical ?

[JPG]

The original OEM bearings do NOT have a groove. The bearings are minimally adjustable so there is nothing the bearings do to guarantee their location relative to the path of the blade.

i.e. the groove MUST be adjusted to the correct blade path, not the other way around.

The purpose of the guide bearings is only to position the back of the blade, not any other direction.

==========

Right,,,,, no different than any other band saw ,,,,,so if the diameter of the wheels didnt change then the back guide wheel ,,,,{ since it is not adjustable},,,, should still be in line , thats what I was asking ,, was it still in alignment ,, or if it was possible he could have switched a guide wheel some where . are they they identical ?

OK. Here is where we diverge.

The 'guide' bearings are a fixed distance from the base casting. It is that position/plane that they provide positioning on the back on the blade onto the wheel. One each on the upper and lower wheels.

They are however adjustable(somewhat) front to rear. That allows slight alignment of the groove to blade path with the split bearing alteration.

Now the backup bearing(the one behind the upper blade guides) is where all this discussion centers.

The alteration IIRC includes all three bearings.

[JPG]

There is no lock washer.

Ted

OK how about the flat washer/spacer!

I just went back and took a closer look at your pix. I do not see the washer/spacer.

However I do see the blade guide base too far 'in'. Notice the blade is closer to the outer guide than the inner guide. The mounting holes are elongated and provide a small range of alignment. Since you have already looked at my alignment thread, it should show how to make that adjustment.

If not rattle my cage.

[JPG]

There is no lock washer.

Ted

OK how about the flat washer/spacer!

I just went back and took a closer look at your pix. I do not see the washer/spacer.

However I do see the blade guide base too far 'in'. Notice the blade is closer to the outer guide than the inner guide. The mounting holes are elongated and provide a small range of alignment. Since you have already looked at my alignment thread, it should show how to make that adjustment.

If not rattle my cage.

http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic ... 981#p96981

[tvidnoviciii]

There is no lock washer.

Ted

OK how about the flat washer/spacer!

I just went back and took a closer look at your pix. I do not see the washer/spacer.

However I do see the blade guide base too far 'in'. Notice the blade is closer to the outer guide than the inner guide. The mounting holes are elongated and provide a small range of alignment. Since you have already looked at my alignment thread, it should show how to make that adjustment.

If not rattle my cage.

JPG, thanks for the responses, your commitment to providing information and helping folks with their questions is greatly appreciated. I have the alignment as far to the "right" as possible, without modification of the housing. There is a spacer, but if removed, the bearing contacts the guide housing. I could flie the guide housing and see if I gain enough clearance to correctly align the bearings, but by eye (haven't measured) it appears that I'd still be short. I'll take a closer look tonight and may get the file out.

Thanks again,
Ted