Metal cutting on bandsaw. Mods and data

[JPG]

Where did "585" to "4335" come from???

Never mind - 50 Hz vs 60 Hz.

Still confused - I thought the 50 Hz models had a smaller drive shaft pulley???

[holsgo]

I have no idea where I got that rpm data. Either from the pile of papers I inherited this 1953 machine. Or from some post I found. Who knows. At this point I use the bandsaw almost exclusively for metal work and I can tell by ear what speed I should be at in certain metals. Still use it just as I did in this post from years ago. Probably cut 100's of linear feet of 1/4 bar stock.
I even turned the shopsmith into a powered hacksaw. Take the bandsaw off, put on my powered hacksaw attachment and cut 3" diameter solid round without having to watch it.

I haven't posted in a few years as I have moved on to metalwork. Most of my side money now comes from automotive, welding and machine work. But, every time someone comes over, the first tool they want to know about is the shopsmith, what it is and how cool some of the things are that I rigged up for it to do.

[roy_okc]

@holsgo,

I've worked out how to calculate the RPM, IPM, FPM based on original RPM and various pulley sizes. I'm trying to figure out how to safely (for me) share a spreadsheet.

EDIT: Anyone PM me if you'd like a copy of the spreadsheet before I can figure out a better method of sharing.

Very cool that you've been able to use for so much metal working.

I'm considering building one of these reducers so I can cut various metals, hopefully even stainless steel. Perhaps I'll dedicate my older BS for metal cutting if I find the need to do so often enough.

What blade(s) have you found work best for you?

Thanks,
Roy

[JPG]

All the rpm, ipm, fpm etc. need to be adjusted by a 6/5 ratio(1.2) to correct for the rpm range being low if using a 60 Hz motor.

[JPG]

All the rpm, fpm numbers need to be adjusted by a 6/5 ratio(1.2) to correct for the rpm range being low if using a 60 Hz motor.

Apparently I did my stupid thing fer today.

[holsgo]

In answer to the band saw blade question...I run 2 different blades. One is about 8 or 9 tip and one 11 or so. The lower tpi one stays on there most of the time. I like because it allows me to run stock though it quickly. The higher tpi is for thinner metals like down in the 1/8 thick range.
After a few years you simply get a feel for the right sound, speed and chip. I usually run steel according to the setup I have shown with the dial on g. A good bi-metal blade works fine and I have mine made for the shopsmith by R and B sharpening in Anderson, CA.
Aluminum is run faster with a lower tpi blade. Same for brass. So, it doesn't matter if you go by my chart exactly or if you are within a few rpm's. It comes down to your feed rate, lubrication (oil or kerosene or coolant), the sounds, and the chips. Heat is the enemy so burnt chips and a dull blade will make your day a failure. So, for this exercise, just use the rpm charts as a guide. You can be within a range and be fine.
I don't even use a chart much for speeds and feeds anymore. That applies to the bandsaw, milling machine or lathe. Once you get the practice in, you will simply know by watching the material. Smoke is never a good sign...too much heat.

[holsgo]

Btw, you can cut stainless just fine. BUT, stainless is a tough one for any fabricator because it work hardens. You may be cutting along just fine and then the heat buildup will cause hardening ahead of your cut. Your blade will dull very quickly if that happens. This applies to bending it, cutting it, milling etc. any action to it can cause the work hardening. There are ways around it by heating with oxy to relieve the stress, but the key is to not let it work harden. When cutting stainless, plow ahead and don't stop, don't cut, back out, cut again. Go for the cut the first time.
And yes, carbide will cut it. HSS will cut it. But once work hardened both will have trouble.
I run all machines with carbide by finding the HSS recommended speed and almost doubling it. I milled a railroad track that was work hardened by using carbide, no coolant or lube, running almost 2x's the High speed steel speed.
Yes, none of this is woodworking, but machinery facts in general.

[sehast]

Interesting project and you have done a great job but I have found that doing metal working on woodworking tools does not work out too well. Metal filings get every place and unless you meticulously clean up after every metal project the metal filings contamination takes its toll on your woodworking tools. I do a fair amount of metal working, mostly aluminum, but I use a dedicated Rockwell Blade Runner saw that works great for me and was very inexpensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RK7323- ... ckwell+saw

[holsgo]

I understand. The vertical bandsaw has worked fine for years on metal. No problems.
So, I'll just stick with it.

[roy_okc]

@holsgo,

Thanks for the info on the blade choices and stainless steel issues. I recently bought a used mini metal lathe for the odd occasions that I need to do something in metal and would like a way of cutting steel/stainless steel and other materials that can't be done with a miter saw and carbide toothed blade. I think this makes much more sense for me than buying a portable or stationary metal cutting bandsaw.