Bandsaw Tracking
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Bandsaw Tracking
A while back I took advantage of the Shopsmith sale on bandsaw blades. I have been doing some resawing and ripping with no problems. Today I wanted to do some intricate work so I put on the 1/8 inch blade. I tried all sorts of the tricks of the trade but it just wouldn't track. It moved to the outside and once popped off before I could stop the motor. I then pulled out a new set of tires and the same problem. All my blades from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch track fine just not the 1/8 inch. I am open for suggestions.
Bob
Willcox, AZ
Bob
Willcox, AZ
- JPG
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Re: Bandsaw Tracking
Check upper wheel cant. With a 1/4" blade mounted, check to see that the BACK of the blade tracks 1/4" in from the back edge of the upper tire when properly tensioned. Increase cant if less than 1/4".
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Bandsaw Tracking
OK, I did a check and the 1/4 inch blade tracks just fine. Just for grins I pulled up an older carbon steel 1/8 inch blade and it also tracks just fine. I put the new premium 1/8 inch blade on and no it will not track. My gut feeling is that it might be the blade.
Bob
Willcox, AZ
Bob
Willcox, AZ
Re: Bandsaw Tracking
Assuming tension has been properly set, I agree that your tracking issue seems to be caused by the blade.
Suggest you measure the blade length as 72". If too tough to measure, lay an old blade in top of the new one.
Suggest you measure the blade length as 72". If too tough to measure, lay an old blade in top of the new one.
Re: Bandsaw Tracking
How does one adjust the cant? I don't see an adjustment. I have been having a problem just since installing a new blade but I do not understand how a blade can cause the tracking problem I am having. My blade is not tracking 1/4" as you posted and jumps out of the guides when not cutting.
Also, how much should the upper wheel wiggle whith no blade installed. I am measuring 0.055".
Thanks,
Russ
Also, how much should the upper wheel wiggle whith no blade installed. I am measuring 0.055".
Thanks,
Russ
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Re: Bandsaw Tracking
Are you ready for this?radarguy wrote:How does one adjust the cant? I don't see an adjustment. I have been having a problem just since installing a new blade but I do not understand how a blade can cause the tracking problem I am having. My blade is not tracking 1/4" as you posted and jumps out of the guides when not cutting.
Also, how much should the upper wheel wiggle whith no blade installed. I am measuring 0.055".
Thanks,
Russ
Remove the upper wheel.
Place a pipe over the shaft.
Push up on the free end of the pipe.
This basically bends the arm on which the shaft is mounted.
A way(non-ss)to check cant is to lay a straight edge(a 4' level will work)against the upper wheel just off the hub. The straight edge should clear the top of the lower wheel about 1/8" to 1/4".
Now does 'just fine' mean the back of the old 1/4" blade and old 1/8" blade are tracking 1/4" from the back of the tire? If so, the cant is likely correct.
Not 'revealed' yet is the source of the 'premium 1/8" blade'. If SS, I would be addressing this issue with CS.
Like Chuck, I be suspicious of the length. Is the upper wheel at its height limit with the 'new' blade tensioned. If so the blade is not being tensioned. It may be too long.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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Re: Bandsaw Tracking
Based on what you have reported here, I would not be so anxious to adjust the cant. It has been my experience that when the cant is an issue, it is an issue with all blades that you mount. Furthermore, it is my opinion that 1/4" is only for reference and not to be measured.radarguy wrote:How does one adjust the cant? I don't see an adjustment. I have been having a problem just since installing a new blade but I do not understand how a blade can cause the tracking problem I am having. My blade is not tracking 1/4" as you posted and jumps out of the guides when not cutting.
Also, how much should the upper wheel wiggle whith no blade installed. I am measuring 0.055".
Thanks,
Russ
With the Shopsmith band saw, the blade should tend to run toward the back of the wheels. Incorrect cant will either cause that tendency to be excessive or the blade will run toward the front of the wheels and (if bad enough) come off the front.
The tracking bearings are there to establish a limit as to how far back the blade will track on a band saw that is otherwise running properly. The tension adjustments, the guide block adjustments and the bearing positions should all be verified before even thinking about bending the upper wheel to change tracking.
Your wiggle of .055" does not seem alarming at all and I do not believe is an issue.
Spend a Saturday morning working on bearing positions and guide blocks and I believe you will find all the issues resolved.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
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Re: Bandsaw Tracking
Novice questions:
I see that Shopsmith recommends Cool Blocks for use with their 1/16" blade. Could the 1/8" blade be just narrow and squirrelly enough that it would benefit from Cool Blocks, too?
Regarding blade length: If it's wrong, wouldn't it be impossible to tension properly as shown by the red indicator?
I see that Shopsmith recommends Cool Blocks for use with their 1/16" blade. Could the 1/8" blade be just narrow and squirrelly enough that it would benefit from Cool Blocks, too?
Regarding blade length: If it's wrong, wouldn't it be impossible to tension properly as shown by the red indicator?
- dusty
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Re: Bandsaw Tracking
Cool Blocks is really a personal preference.
Blade length can be a slight variable but only slight. Yes, if it is too long you will not be able to get the appropriate tension. If it is too short, you won't be able to mount it at all.
Nominally 72".
Blade length can be a slight variable but only slight. Yes, if it is too long you will not be able to get the appropriate tension. If it is too short, you won't be able to mount it at all.
Nominally 72".
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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Re: Bandsaw Tracking
davebodner wrote:Novice questions:
I see that Shopsmith recommends Cool Blocks for use with their 1/16" blade. Could the 1/8" blade be just narrow and squirrelly enough that it would benefit from Cool Blocks, too?
Regarding blade length: If it's wrong, wouldn't it be impossible to tension properly as shown by the red indicator?
Question is, what is restricting the wheel support arm? The blade, or the free movement limit. Either will cause the tension indicator to move with adjustment of the screw. 72 +- 1/2" is the stated tolerance.
Cool blocks will work with any size blade but more benefit is derived from them with the narrow blade, as this allows the blocks to fully press against the sides of the blade including the teeth.
I consider 1/16" blades to be a bit of wishful thinking!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange