JPG40504 wrote:It just seems heavy to me. I am surprised it is only 65#. Due to size it is likely a two person task. I was just thinking how difficult carrying it on one's shoulders over rough terrain would be. Probably totally irrelevant to your intended use.
And then there was the "Spruce Goose" you nay sayer!!!!
Good morning JPG!!!!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
rbursek wrote:And then there was the "Spruce Goose" you nay sayer!!!!
Good morning JPG!!!!!
And how many miles/years did it fly?:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:And how many miles/years did it fly?:D
Not the issue.
It did FLY!!!!
I am sure the canoe will float, in style!!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
I am sure it will float far longer than the spruce goose flew.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:It just seems heavy to me. I am surprised it is only 65#. Due to size it is likely a two person task. I was just thinking how difficult carrying it on one's shoulders over rough terrain would be. Probably totally irrelevant to your intended use.
Are you calling my canoe fat??? Them's fightin' words!:mad: Lucky for you, I'm not a fighter!:D
I have no idea how accurate the designer's 65 lbs figure is. I'll try to weigh it when all is said and done.
algale wrote:The staple holes will be visible. There are some staple-less methods, but they take longer and reportedly aren't for beginners.
As to portaging, I don't live on the water (yet:)) so at a minimum there will be some portaging from parking lots to the launch and such. But I'm not planning on canoe trips where I have to portage the Slow Boat over long distances. Why do you ask?
I saw one canoe where the builder lined up each staple hole with the others.
I also saw a canoe where the builder used contrasting colored wood pegs sanded them smooth. Looked good but I think it caused a structure problem.
For portage they sell a nifty strap on wheel set, you unload the canoe from your car or truck turn it over onto the wheels and like a wheel barrow you can move where you want. I think for cross country portages they suggest pulling rather than push the canoe. Supposedly goes over logs, rocks and through the brush with ease. I don't know i never portaged a canoe with it.
Ed in Tampa wrote:I saw one canoe where the builder lined up each staple hole with the others.
I also saw a canoe where the builder used contrasting colored wood pegs sanded them smooth. Looked good but I think it caused a structure problem.
For portage they sell a nifty strap on wheel set, you unload the canoe from your car or truck turn it over onto the wheels and like a wheel barrow you can move where you want. I think for cross country portages they suggest pulling rather than push the canoe. Supposedly goes over logs, rocks and through the brush with ease. I don't know i never portaged a canoe with it.
The staples do line up on the forms, but between the forms you need to put a staple wherever the strips are trying to pull away from the one below, which varies from strip to strip, so lining them up would be difficult. The bigger holes (like the dry wall screws used to hold the most recalcitrant strips) get filled with epoxy mixed with sanding dust, i.e. wood flour. It may contrast a little.
The canoe wheel set sounds interesting. I'll look it up.
algale wrote:The last strip was a doozy. I made a pattern by taking a rubbing, glued two strips together, adhered the pattern and cut it on the Shopsmith bandsaw.
Very clever idea...it looks like the result is a nice tight fit in the center of the football. I am impressed with how well all the herring bone joints came together, as well. It has been interesting to follow your progress in learning how to subdue cranky strips, and and from the photos it appears the result is a nicely faired hull. Thanks for the pictures and congratulations on a nice job.
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
I'm getting ahead of myself here, but in thinking about the gunwales (or gunnels), the design calls for both the inner and outer gunwales to be 3/4 by 3/4 x the length of the sheerline. While the canoe is 16 foot long straight up the middle, the sheerline bulges out at the center of the canoe and up at both ends, so the finished gunwales probably need to be 17-18 feet long.
The plans call for the gunwales to be bent (dry) to follow the sheer line and epoxied/screwed in place. The author says if you can't get a single piece of lumber to length, you can scarf two pieces together using epoxy and microfibers to make a water proof glue. The scarf joint is then oriented at the center of the sheerline with the long line of the scarf oriented to the side. This is a relatively flat part of the sheerline and I assume this puts little stress on the scarf.
I have some black walnut in 6 and 7 foot lengths that I would like to use but I would have to scarf three pieces together to get the necessary length. This will put the two scarf joints closer to the ends of the canoe and under more stress than a single scarf in the center of the canoe.
I assume epoxy/microfiber glue will be stronger than the wood itself, but I'm not sure if I'm asking for trouble.
