Disassembly questions

rte66 · Post by **rte66** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 8:23 pm

The '84 510 I bought suffered salt water intrusion during a hurricane. Trying to restore for my son-in-law. Having considerable difficulties, for obvious reasons, the main being bimetallic corrosion. Needs a complete tear down for rust removal, painting, renovation.

Trying to remove the tie bar from the way tubes. Used a rubber mallet; no joy. Tried the best penetrating oil I know of; no joy. Tried heat, hoping that the dissimilar metals would expand/contract at different rates and break the bond; no joy. Any ideas on how to remove without breaking it?

The bearings in the quill need to be changed (darnedest thing, a 'clunk' as the shaft rotates, about every 90 degrees) but I can't get the set screw in the knurled ring out to disassemble the quill (actually have a machine shop do it)
Tried the penetrating oil, no luck, don't want to strip the hex like I did on the set screw for one of the band saw mounting tubes. What else can I try?

Appreciate the help from members here, I need to tap into the centuries of accumulated experience.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 8:38 pm

rte66 wrote:The '84 510 I bought suffered salt water intrusion during a hurricane. Trying to restore for my son-in-law. Having considerable difficulties, for obvious reasons, the main being bimetallic corrosion. Needs a complete tear down for rust removal, painting, renovation.

Trying to remove the tie bar from the way tubes. Used a rubber mallet] Any ideas on how to remove without breaking it?

The bearings in the quill need to be changed (darnedest thing, a 'clunk' as the shaft rotates, about every 90 degrees) but I can't get the set screw in the knurled ring out to disassemble the quill (actually have a machine shop do it)
Tried the penetrating oil, no luck, don't want to strip the hex like I did on the set screw for one of the band saw mounting tubes. What else can I try?

Appreciate the help from members here, I need to tap into the centuries of accumulated experience.

First the obvious, did you remove the set screws?

When they are removed squirt some of that penetrating oil(I use kerosene), but others recommend kroil. FWIW, wd40 is not so good.

As for the rubber mallet, try something 'harder'.

For stubborn screws, an impact driver will help. HF has an inexpensive one for under $10.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 9:19 pm

Salt water + aluminum + ferrous metals?
For the tie bar if you have removed the set screws try this. Prop the way tubes up and use a block of wood against the tie bar where the tube goes into the tie bar and TAP the tie bar gently. Do not use the block of wood at the center of the tie bar. That would be a sure way to break it. I had set screws on several pieces of SS equipment that were very difficult to remove even after soaking with penetrating oil.
Try cutting a piece of the 5/32" allen wrench about 2" long and put it in the set screw and then use a 1/4" ratchet with a 5/32" socket. Place the socket wrench over the allen wrench and give a sharp rap with your hand to loosen it.
The short stub of the allen wrench transfers more torque to the set screw. The long allen wrench twists too much and you just waste a lot of torque in twisting the wrench.
Bill V
Posted this in the other thread so I copied it here.

teacherman · Post by **teacherman** » Wed Mar 26, 2014 10:28 pm

I've had good success with the SiliKroil stuff. Another idea is to heat the assembly up as hot as you think you can get away with, then dump water on it to contract it quickly and move the two metals across one another and break the crust. That may not be advised for aluminum, though. I wish you success in this project, man.

rpd · Post by **rpd** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 2:42 am

Lately I have been using Evaporust to free parts that are frozen due to rust.

I just put a few drops at the joint and let it soak in instead of penetrating oil.

bhurley · Post by **bhurley** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:01 am

I throw lots of the tie bars away. If you have to destroy yours to get it off just contact me. I will send you a new one for the cost of the postage.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:23 am

After applying evaporust, wd-40, or whatever to loosen the joint, try to rotate the tubes rather than pull them out of the tie bar. I do this by clamping the tie bar to my work bench and then use a strap wrench to rotate the tubes. Once the tubes rotate, the tie bar should come off with little difficulty.

garys · Post by **garys** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 12:50 pm

I find it sad when people abuse expensive tools like a Shopsmith by allowing them to get wet and corroded.
The tie bar will slip off quite easily on a Shopsmith that has been taken care even with no maintenance in that area.

My Shopsmith is a 1981 model. Two years ago, I needed to pull the tie bar off mine for the first time in over 20 years. I loosened the set screws and slipped it off easily by hand.

I suggest you remove the set screws first. Then mix up some penetrating oil using a mix of 50/50 Acetone and Automatic transmission fluid. Synthetic ATF is best if you have some. Soak it with this mixture for 24 hours and try again. If this doesn't work, none of the commercial penetrating fluids stand a chance.
Recently I had to remove the brake lines from a 44 year old car that lived in the rust belt for those 44 years and had never been apart. A spray of my Acetone/ATF mix and 24 hour wait allowed all the line fittings to come apart easily

rte66 · Post by **rte66** » Thu Mar 27, 2014 3:52 pm

garys wrote:I find it sad when people abuse expensive tools like a Shopsmith by allowing them to get wet and corroded.
The tie bar will slip off quite easily on a Shopsmith that has been taken care even with no maintenance in that area.

In all fairness to the previous owner, after the hurricane rolled over him, the state of his Shopsmith was probably the last thing on his mind. Survival of spouse and self #1; finding the darned insurance adjuster #2, . . . .!:D