saw guard question

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drbailey
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saw guard question

Post by drbailey »

G Morning everyone, I have a simple question and I think I know the answer, in all aspects of life I agree that "Safety first"
since aquiring the SS 500 I have bought 13 or 14 pieces off of E bay for the unit.
Q. is it a total safty factor to run the top saw guard assy. on my saw? I have the lower guard. I know that this forum , the members nor SS would say "No you dont need it" so a better way to ask this is , is everyone using the upper guard? I see one on ebay thats not to high prices,I dont think. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-Mark- ... 3386b931e2
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I think that this is a very controversial issue. Shopsmith will certainly proclaim that the guards should always be used and I would not argue with that most of the time. I am always in favor of safety first.

Having said that, I very often operate without the upper saw guard. The splitter, however, is another issue all together. I seldom operate without a splitter of some sort.

Yes, these are somewhat contradictory statements. It is very difficult to declare oneself as a safety advocate and then admit to not using the guards. I guess that makes me hypocritical but you asked and I answered as honestly as I can.

Please do "Make your sawdust safely". If what you are about to do does not feel safe - don't do it. Never question that little voice within you.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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drbailey
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Post by drbailey »

Thanks Dusty for your honest opinion,and for the safty advise, Im sorry but I have to ask this question, because the SS is still new to me, " What are you referring to as a splitter?"
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MikeG
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Post by MikeG »

The 500's metal upper guard, like my unit came with, I did not use after the first time it twisted sideways and hit the blade. :mad:

I have upgraded to newer see-through plastic upper guard and use it every time I make a through cut.

The little voice in my head says, "be extra safe, we would like the fingers to remain attached to the hand."
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

drbailey wrote:Thanks Dusty for your honest opinion,and for the safty advise, Im sorry but I have to ask this question, because the SS is still new to me, " What are you referring to as a splitter?"
I must apologize. You very clearly stated that you have a Model 500 and I do not know if the 500 utilizes a splitter (otherwise referred to as a riving knife).
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

drbailey wrote:" What are you referring to as a splitter?"
It helps to keep the kerf from closing and pinching the blade. Which wood cause a dangerous kick back.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
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Bob
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moggymatt
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Post by moggymatt »

I've got a 500 and before watching a few of the kick back you tube videos I would occasionally justify not using the top guard, but now I always use it. A 10 second adjustment is all it takes to keep the bandages away.
Paul B
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terrydowning
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Post by terrydowning »

Personally, I hate the 500 series after thought guards.

I do have them and do use them on through cuts they do make me slow down and think about what I'm doing but I always seem to have issues with the splitter getting misaligned, I don't know how many times I've bent the bolt that holds the upper guard in place. The upper guard really is an after thought for this design of saw. The lower guard does keep things out of the blade from underneath, but the dust collection is mediocre at best. It helps, but I've seen that the 510 plus guards do have a better design and functionality.

If safety is biggest concern I recommend learning to do cut operations with out the table saw, or at least reduce its usage. I did and I don't regret it.

Contrary to popular belief (and I am definitely a minority voice here), the table saw does not need to be the primary machine in the wood worker's arsenal. Wood working has been accomplished for thousands of years prior to the table saw even being invented.

Most Table saws are useless or downright dangerous for large panels and sheet goods. A circular saw with a good blade and a straight edge is much safer. If you do a lot of work with large panels or sheet goods, then a track saw or dedicated panel saw is much safer and may be worth the investment.

If you're just starting out with machine based wood working I recommend focusing on the band saw, building your own guide system for a circular saw to break down panels and leave the table saw to long ripping operations. Decent miter saws are relatively inexpensive and handle most cross cutting needs.

If you do want to use the table saw functionality more, then I recommend upgrading to a 510 or 520 table. Better guard design, larger work surface and generally safer as the guards were designed for that table and not an after thought.

Just my 2 cents. Take it for what it's worth.
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Terry
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drbailey
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Post by drbailey »

dusty wrote:I must apologize. You very clearly stated that you have a Model 500 and I do not know if the 500 utilizes a splitter (otherwise referred to as a riving knife).
Thats perfectly alright Dusty, at least I know now what a splitter is anyway:D I believe I will do as Mike G did and use the clear plastic guard. Not saying it will get used all the time , but I will have it to try out. Thanks guys for helping me make this decision.
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drbailey
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Post by drbailey »

terrydowning, that all makes sense, I actually have a table saw that has never had a guard on it, and I have a 12 inch mitre saw on it own roll table. truth be known I would probably not take the time to set up the SS table saw when I have another one setting right there. I like my SS and Im trying to have a complete unit with most all attachments.
Thanks for your opinion on this topic, it helps.
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