Already saw that video thanks. But with the size dowel I need being 1 3/16", that's pretty large. Won't chuck up in a drill. This thing only needs to be 12" long, so I really believe the lathe is the way to go.
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
joshh wrote:Ya, I did not think it wood work for your porpoises
If you decide you want to go with a metal dowel, let me know. I know of a good website that sells inexpensive metal in all kinds of shapes and sizes.
I'm a decent web surfer, I looked far and wide for 1 and 3/16" SS tubing(OD). Only one place...Vita Needle had it, but only in a 10' minimum order($700+).
It's surprising what Amazon has in steel tubing.
Regular cheap steel tubing cannot be found in that size dia.
Even buying cheaper mild steel tubing at 1 and 1/4" OD and having it machined down to size would be costly.
Going with wood, thank you very much!
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
pieceseeker wrote:What would be the most accurate way to make 1 3/16 OD x 12" dowel rod on the lathe? I need it to fit precisely, but slide thru an aluminum bore 1 3/16" x 2" through its entire 12" length.
Seems to me that if you had an aluminum pipe of the same bore, you could grind saw like teeth I one end and drill the wood straight through the bore for a perfect match.
nil wrote:Seems to me that if you had an aluminum pipe of the same bore, you could grind saw like teeth I one end and drill the wood straight through the bore for a perfect match.
That would be 'interesting' to watch.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
$9.10 per foot for steel, $18.47 per foot for stainless steel, no minimum order, tolerance within .003
They have lots of other materials too.
Not trying to convince you to go with metal...just wanted to share for anyone who might search for dowels.
Actually, I looked at that site also. They do not have steel, aluminum, copper, or brass "tube" of the correct size.
A 5/8 bronze bushing must be centered in one end of my alignment tool, and a tube would be much easier to center that bushing precisely in one end. A solid round bar would have to be drilled exactly and also need about a 3/4" quality drill bit to do the job. And that is if I could center it exactly. That bushing placement is critical to it being an alignment tool.
I think machine shop hourly rate would be prohibitive. Wood is easier to work with, can screw it up and just turn another one.
It will be easier for me to bore a hole to hold that bushing with a forsner bit in the end of solid wood.
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
nil wrote:Seems to me that if you had an aluminum pipe of the same bore, you could grind saw like teeth I one end and drill the wood straight through the bore for a perfect match.
I don't think "pipe" (ID) sizes would be that accurate. I really think that would be more work than required. The SS is made for lathe work with wood. If I have to, I could purchase wood closet rod (I think they are about 1 1/4" dia).
The important thing is if I used closet rod, it would have to be perfectly straight to begin with. A 1/16" has to be cut off on the lathe, so it would have to be straight within a 1/32".
" I cut it twice and it's still too short"
2006 Mark 520, 1983 Mark V model 500(soon to be a shorty)/Power Stand mounted Planer/Jointer/Belt Sander/Band Saw/Jigsaw on pwr stand/Scroll saw/Strip Sander/Power Station/Speed Reducer/Increaser/2 Nova chucks.... 12" DeWalt sliding compound mitre saw, 10" Delta tabletop saw, Bosch router and jig saw, Makita circular saw, Graco V-COMP HVLP, Festool CT-26 E Hepa
If you have a router, you can make a jig to cut your dowels for you. I think I saw this idea in a library book, so I don't have a reference for you. I will google it and see if I can find it on the web.
Sam in Northfield, MN
A day without beer......could have been better
Mark V 500 - S/N 100990, Mark V 510 - S/N missing, SS Band Saw, SS 6" Belt Sander, SS 4" Jointer, SS Scroll Saw, SS DC3300
1-1/4 inch dowels are available in from number of places. I would mount a 1-1/4 inch x 12inch dowel in the lathe then using a 12inch long block covered with sandpaper I would lightly take off a 1/16th.
Make today a day that lets you smile!
CV
Mobile Al.
MARK V 520 - Band saw and Jointer. DeWalt scroll saw.
