Hi guys, I got my SS home and she turned on just fine, did some sanding with the disc wheel with no issue. When the replacement saw guard housing came in the mail I put the blade on and tried to rip a 1/2" fence board, the blade/motor it bogged down on me to the point of nearly stopping. Now I want to be clear, I was not forcing the board, this was plain old Lowes PT dog ear fencing, and it was up to speed when I began the cut.
It's been 20 years since I've owned one any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Motor bogging down.
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
I really have a difficult time when I hear this type of complaint. However some things do come to mind.
Is the motor really bogging down?
Is it just a matter of one of the belts slipping?
Is it a voltage supply problem?
I had a similar problem when I ripped some 2" southern yellow pine which was caused by the stock warping while it was being cut and it pinched the blade. The problem was corrected by putting a small wedge in the kerf to hold it open.
It is possible to bog down the blade while the motor keeps running although you may not realize that the motor is running.
The first thing I would do is check the belt tension of the POLY "V" belt and do a complete lubrication to make sure that the sheaves are free to move along their respective shafts. If the spring loaded sheave on the motor shaft gets bound up it will prevent the belt from tightening properly and you will lose power.
Bill V
Is the motor really bogging down?
Is it just a matter of one of the belts slipping?
Is it a voltage supply problem?
I had a similar problem when I ripped some 2" southern yellow pine which was caused by the stock warping while it was being cut and it pinched the blade. The problem was corrected by putting a small wedge in the kerf to hold it open.
It is possible to bog down the blade while the motor keeps running although you may not realize that the motor is running.
The first thing I would do is check the belt tension of the POLY "V" belt and do a complete lubrication to make sure that the sheaves are free to move along their respective shafts. If the spring loaded sheave on the motor shaft gets bound up it will prevent the belt from tightening properly and you will lose power.
Bill V
Are you using a clean sharp blade? Have ya aligned the SS yet? Wax and lube it?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Hi,
No offense intended but you do have the blade facing the right way, right? When I got a basket case 510 some years back it had two arbors mounted blades, both mounted backwards, along with the smell of burned wood. That same machine also had a very loose poly-v-belt which I believe saved the motor. His ad mentioned it bogging down, yea I bet it did.
Of course as mentioned alignment, proper blade (rip for ripping or combo), and make sure you have at least 15A service with nothing else using that circuit.
BTW while we might solve your issues here it is also a good idea to let us know where you reside, as close as you feel safe with. Might have a member just down the road who could stop by and check things out with you.
Ed
No offense intended but you do have the blade facing the right way, right? When I got a basket case 510 some years back it had two arbors mounted blades, both mounted backwards, along with the smell of burned wood. That same machine also had a very loose poly-v-belt which I believe saved the motor. His ad mentioned it bogging down, yea I bet it did.
Of course as mentioned alignment, proper blade (rip for ripping or combo), and make sure you have at least 15A service with nothing else using that circuit.
BTW while we might solve your issues here it is also a good idea to let us know where you reside, as close as you feel safe with. Might have a member just down the road who could stop by and check things out with you.
Ed
jmc_bc1963 wrote:Hi guys, I got my SS home and she turned on just fine, did some sanding with the disc wheel with no issue. When the replacement saw guard housing came in the mail I put the blade on and tried to rip a 1/2" fence board, the blade/motor it bogged down on me to the point of nearly stopping. Now I want to be clear, I was not forcing the board, this was plain old Lowes PT dog ear fencing, and it was up to speed when I began the cut.
It's been 20 years since I've owned one any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Several thoughts come to mind - Assuming the speed control has been adjusted for proper top speed - lets look at the most surprising (but possible) reasons for the bog down.
The blade is in backward- reverse it.
The saw blade is an old steel blade and is dull- replace it
Assuming you have a mark V, the drive belt is upside down. Re-install the belt, or replace it.
Other possible causes -
The headstock needs a good lubrication - Put the headstock in drill press position and lube the motor sheave - also lubricate the control sheave shaft.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34648
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Regarding 'reversed' blades - not only can the blade be reversed in the arbor, but the blade/arbor can be can be attached to the quill backwards.
The '500' arbor mounts with the rounded end facing out(the nut facing the headstock). If reversed the set screw barely catches the end of the quill shaft.
Since Ed got one with the blades reversed in the arbors, you may have also.
Not mentioned was the type of blade you are using. A 'hollow' ground blade does not like to rip! Does the bogging happen when cross cutting?
Ripping is the most demanding saw operation re proper blade/shsarpness/warped stock. PT adds to the task.
BTW the arbor nut is a left hand thread(righty-loosey - lefty tighty:D).
P.S. If disk sanding did not expose a loose belt, the problem probably is not so caused.
P.P.S. This be a good opportunity to explore the pix posting scene with a pix if the blade mounted.
The '500' arbor mounts with the rounded end facing out(the nut facing the headstock). If reversed the set screw barely catches the end of the quill shaft.
Since Ed got one with the blades reversed in the arbors, you may have also.
Not mentioned was the type of blade you are using. A 'hollow' ground blade does not like to rip! Does the bogging happen when cross cutting?
Ripping is the most demanding saw operation re proper blade/shsarpness/warped stock. PT adds to the task.
BTW the arbor nut is a left hand thread(righty-loosey - lefty tighty:D).
P.S. If disk sanding did not expose a loose belt, the problem probably is not so caused.
P.P.S. This be a good opportunity to explore the pix posting scene with a pix if the blade mounted.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
If an old 500, fence alignment and guard/splitter alignment (The hold down on mine often vibrates loose allowing the guard to move. this can make it seem like the machine is bogging down)
This happens to me, especially if I'm in a hurry. I try to double check fence to blade measurement both fore and aft before making cuts, especially if the fence is on the extension table.
This happens to me, especially if I'm in a hurry. I try to double check fence to blade measurement both fore and aft before making cuts, especially if the fence is on the extension table.
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Terry
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1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
- jmc_bc1963
- Silver Member
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:33 am
Thank you for the replies, yes the blade is mounted correctly. I will work at checking everything else out hopefully over the weekend.
Concerning the blade question, I had to chuckle, but remembered when my son called to tell me his printer wasn't working. Knowing he'd just moved I asked him if it was plugged in...
I do appreciate the feedback, you guys rock.
Julie
Concerning the blade question, I had to chuckle, but remembered when my son called to tell me his printer wasn't working. Knowing he'd just moved I asked him if it was plugged in...
I do appreciate the feedback, you guys rock.
Julie