speed reducer

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charlese
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Post by charlese »

[quote="JPG40504"]Might make it 'worse'!]

Doubt it! The machine runs GREAT at speeds of 3000 or better. To get 950 at the bandsaw, the headstock has to run at around 7000 I think. I also used to bandsaw at around 750 or 800 RPM which would need a headstock speed of around 6000. Havent done the division problem yet.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

charlese wrote:Doubt it! The machine runs GREAT at speeds of 3000 or better. To get 950 at the bandsaw, the headstock has to run at around 7000 I think. I also used to bandsaw at around 750 or 800 RPM which would need a headstock speed of around 6000. Havent done the division problem yet.
So the purpose is not further speed reduction for the bandsaw, but rather headstock speed increase.

I assume you are not 'satisfied' with the PP after it was 'fixed'.

What are your current 'issues'?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I am confused about how one goes about changing the speed of the PowerPro.

After setting up to use the band saw (as an example), if one wants the speed lower (or higher), is there not a simple up/down speed control.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:I am confused about how one goes about changing the speed of the PowerPro.

After setting up to use the band saw (as an example), if one wants the speed lower (or higher), is there not a simple up/down speed control.
I believe Charlese wanted the speed reducer so as to move the PP speed up by a factor of 7.

The noise problems only occur at lower speeds.

Thus a noisy 700 rpm becomes a smooth 4900 rpm.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
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Post by charlese »

JPG40504 wrote:So the purpose is not further speed reduction for the bandsaw, but rather headstock speed increase.

I assume you are not 'satisfied' with the PP after it was 'fixed'.

What are your current 'issues'?

The "fixed" situation is about the same as before the fix. Prior to the fix the headstock was Pulsing (according to SS repair). After the "fix" there is still the banging and stalling (coming to a stop with an error message) when using the bandsaw. Surprisingly, the PowerPro runs fantastically at all speeds when sawing - using belt and strip sanders - jointer. At two different times the past 7 months, I have re-tightened the screws that change the position of the motor to tighten or loosen the lower poly V belt. Also twice re-set the allen screw that tightens down the motor poly V pulley. The last time I flooded the set screw with blue locktight. Think it is still tight, but will check before using the bandsaw again. Incidentally, the motor pulley is also held by a key and it won't come off because of the circlip on the end of the motor shaft. I am sure the banging has loosened these screws.

Remember when you suggested and I agreed that something extra to "drag" on the shaft might fix the banging issue? I as about to figure a way to mount a leather strap to rub on the bandsaw shaft, but in the meantime thought I'd try a speed reducer for that purpose. I have noticed there is no banging at higher speeds.

Yes, the purpose of the speed reducer in my case would be to allow higher speeds on the headstock and still run the bandsaw at a lowe speed, not to exceed 950 RPM.

To answer the speed adjustment question - Don't want to confuse! Yes at any time the PowerPro is running it is possible to press on either the up or down arrows to increase or decrease speed.

Also, glad to read that other couplers seem to fix the banging problem.

I'm still pleased with the PowerPro - it is just this damn issue with the bandsaw.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

charlese wrote: . . .

Remember when you suggested and I agreed that something extra to "drag" on the shaft might fix the banging issue? I as about to figure a way to mount a leather strap to rub on the bandsaw shaft, but in the meantime thought I'd try a speed reducer for that purpose. I have noticed there is no banging at higher speeds.
. . .

Do you have a brush chip scraper riding on the lower wheel? Maybe increasing tension/bristle count will 'help'.

Have you 'experimented(carefully)' by applying a hand drag* to the wheel to determine amount of 'drag' needed?

* Hand drag = hand with dirty rag pad attached.;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
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Post by charlese »

Yes, hand pressure worked to make the machine run smoother (I think), but couldn't do any serious bandsawing with one hand. No rag!:eek: Was afraid of it catching. So ---- was an incomplete experiment.

My dragging hand was on the coupler.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

charlese wrote:Yes, hand pressure worked to make the machine run smoother (I think), but couldn't do any serious bandsawing with one hand. No rag!:eek: Was afraid of it catching. So ---- was an incomplete experiment.

My dragging hand was on the coupler.
My suggestion was to merely determine how much drag applied to the lower wheel so as to determine if something(not your rag/hand) could apply that while actually sawing.

A lot less force(drag) applied to the large wheel would be required than it being applied to the shaft/coupler.

I am under the impression that the undesirable activity stops when actually sawing something. Or, does it return when not feeding the workpiece. Or am I totally confused?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by nuhobby »

JPG40504 wrote:My suggestion was to merely determine how much drag applied to the lower wheel so as to determine if something(not your rag/hand) could apply that while actually sawing.

A lot less force(drag) applied to the large wheel would be required than it being applied to the shaft/coupler.

I am under the impression that the undesirable activity stops when actually sawing something. Or, does it return when not feeding the workpiece. Or am I totally confused?
Perhaps using rubber-sealed bearings rather than shielded bearings could effect something like this goal?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

nuhobby wrote:Perhaps using rubber-sealed bearings rather than shielded bearings could effect something like this goal?
I would hope that neither shielded nor sealed bearings would introduce any significant 'drag'.;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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