Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
reible wrote:I believe it was from Ed in Tampa that I learned about this product and now it is my go to product for projects like this. It can be added to paint but I have never done that. I use it right out of the can per the bare metal instructions and it has work for me.
I have used it with paint and it holds (paint and penetrol ) very well. My four red cedar posts of the front balcony were only tainted originally, and the sun was starting to make its effects on them, so I painted them 3 years ago and it holds very well. It makes the paint more penetrating in woods.
For metal like ondulated rusted sheeting, the were done almost 6 years ago with penetrol direct from an agricultural sprayer, it dried like a varnish finish and its fine and holding very well, even on the walls exposed to the sun all day long.
I will post pictures later ... right now I have to go and change the tires on the car.
Here is a picture with the foot pedal in the new position. As you can see it is not even close to touching anymore.
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Before putting back together I added some lub to the moving parts. Whole thing moves much better. I had been spraying some white grease on the cams from time to time but I guess I should add this to a once a year thing for all the machines.
Started the new round of testing to see where the casters should be mounted. The template I have shows the holes moving 1-3/4".
I clamped the casters in that position and was not happy. The wheels are off the ground in the lowered position such that a 1/8" bar fits easly but a 3/16" would be a tight go.
When in the first step position it's just off the ground, I started at 1/4", no go, nor would a 3/16" bar. I couldn't even get the 1/8" bar to fit.
Second step no where near the 1/2" I'd like to see, the 3/8" bar would not fit but the 1/4" was a loose fit.
My back is worn out for the day but I want to check this out to make sure the clamps are indeed still holding where I put them and second to check to see I marked the places correctly. Glad I didn't start cutting metal yet.
I'm thinking of moving down 1/4" if I find my current setting were right on. (This would be a change to 1-1/2".)
dusty wrote:Ed, when you install the caster, does it insert all of the way or does the stem bottom out before total insertion?
The new caster goes all the way in. If you go back to post #3 of this thread you can see that pretty well.
One can of course add washers to the stem and change the height by the thickness of washer(s). If I had drilled the legs that is what I would be looking to do, but since I have not drilled them yet I'd like to get it really close and not have to deal with an adjustment.
I am trying to understand why some have had difficulty getting the height correct while others find that the template works just fine.
If I understand everything correctly, had you drilled the holes according to the instructions and the template, you would have problems.
I cannot help but believe that if you were installing a new caster assembly, with the holes drilled per the instructions and template, you would get different results.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty- The instructions for the caster set upgrade include a paper template with circles drawn representing the "old" holes and the "new" holes. You're instructed to position the template by sticking a sharp pencil through the center of the top "old" hole in the template, then put the pencil tip into the old hole on the leg, and tape the top end of the template in place. Repeat the process with the bottom "old" hole. Then the "new" holes can be marked with a punch and drilled.
There can easily be 1/4" or so of slop in the positioning of the template using the "pencil" method, and that may be part of the discrepancies in height being discussed here on the forum. I'm sure the "low" position on my upgraded casters is significantly less than 1/4" off the floor. It doesn't bother me any, I always use the "high" position when I move the Shopsmith, anyway.
I am trying to understand why some have had difficulty getting the height correct while others find that the template works just fine.
If I understand everything correctly, had you drilled the holes according to the instructions and the template, you would have problems.
I cannot help but believe that if you were installing a new caster assembly, with the holes drilled per the instructions and template, you would get different results.
Hi Dusty,
I would hope that if one has the "newer" caster set then it would be as simple as drilling the holes per the template and bolting them in place. I know some have said they have done that so it must be true.
I am perhaps a bit to persnickety but "just fitting" and "fitting right" are two different things to me. Were I using the set I have with the holes per the template it would be stable when lowered, it would just clear the floor when in the first position and a bit higher in the third, that would be the case for "just fitting".
"Fitting right" would be stable at the lowered position, about a 1/4" off the floor for step one and about a 1/2" off the floor in the last step. That is what I'm trying to find to be happy with the new wheels. What others use for their criteria I don't know.
So far I see no reason to keep me from getting the fit I want. It is a pain working on it with my back issues but I still have high hopes.
From one 'persnickety' individual to another, I would drill the new holes 1 9/16" above the original holes.
I do not think there is any difference in hole locations in more recent caster castings.
Part of the reason for varying 'opinions' regarding 'works fine' is a difference in opinion of what working properly is. (<0, 1/4,1/2). Apparently there are many of the opinion that if it rolls at the fully lowered position, all is well!:(
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
