My ShopSmith ER10 Purchase - Restoration Project

Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin

judaspre1982
Platinum Member
Posts: 1237
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm

Post by judaspre1982 »

====================
Last edited by judaspre1982 on Fri May 19, 2017 4:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
a1gutterman
Platinum Member
Posts: 3653
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:45 am
Location: "close to" Seattle

Post by a1gutterman »

mickyd wrote:Thanks for offering your brain power heathicus. I am sure at some point that I will have some good questions to bounce off of you.

You mention a "Power Mount Adapter Kit". ebay item or ShopSmith? What exactly is it? Also, here my acronym ignorance....what's SPTs stand for :o
Special Purpose Tool (such as a belt sander, jointer, etc.).
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
User avatar
mickyd
Platinum Member
Posts: 2999
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:18 pm
Location: San Diego, CA
Contact:

Post by mickyd »

judaspre1982 wrote:Mike, it looks like the broken piece came from the bottom of the jig saw. From your pic it looks like there is some jagged edges on the bottom of jig saw forward. The back of the saw on the bottom has a round casting but seems larger. Inspect that area. Let me know what you find.-----Dave

Good eyes Dave!! Check it out.

[ATTACH]5087[/ATTACH]

Even though I really hadn't made a concentrated effort to locate where the piece came from yet, I CAN'T BELIEVE I didn't notice that when I was taking the pictures!! Took your eyeballs 3000 miles away to pick up that small detail in the picture. (Don't mention a word of this to my company. I work as a Quality Assurance Manager and have the uncanny reputation of being able to spot a defective part a mile away!! :D :D ) I think I was just overwhelmed by seeing all the stuff I got for $30. Thanks Dave. Looks like another job for good old J-B Weld .
Attachments
Img_5369mod1.jpg
Img_5369mod1.jpg (92.35 KiB) Viewed 6758 times
Mike
Sunny San Diego
judaspre1982
Platinum Member
Posts: 1237
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm

Post by judaspre1982 »

====================
Last edited by judaspre1982 on Fri May 19, 2017 4:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
heathicus
Platinum Member
Posts: 2648
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 1:02 am
Location: WhoDat Nation

Post by heathicus »

mickyd wrote:Thanks for offering your brain power heathicus. I am sure at some point that I will have some good questions to bounce off of you.

You mention a "Power Mount Adapter Kit". ebay item or ShopSmith? What exactly is it? Also, here my acronym ignorance....what's SPTs stand for :o
You can't get the adapter kit from Shopsmith anymore. That was made back when the brand was owned by "Magna." That original kit is kind of rare and expensive these days, I believe. It consisted of a replacement headstock pulley with the tool hub built in to it, and two mount adapters that mounted to the end of the way tubes (one was for the jointer, the other was for all the other Special Purpose Tools). I won't bore you with the details because the document at the link below covers it pretty well:

http://www.owwm.com/pubs/338/2710.pdf

There are still options if you have trouble finding the original kit or don't want to shell out the cash for one. There is someone who makes the replacement pulleys. There's someone else who makes just the splined hub that will fit on the end of the headstock pulley shaft. Both sell their stuff on eBay. It might also be possible to take a standard hub from Shopsmith and have the bore enlarged from 5/8" to 13/16" but I don't know if that will weaken it too much or not. Somewhere in the Files section of the 10ER Yahoo group is pictures of a mount adapter that someone made from hard wood. Bill Mayo sent me plans for one that could be made. I have a Sketchup file somewhere (can't find it right now - may be on another computer) of what I have in mind to build whenever I finally get a bandsaw. So there are still options without the original kit.
User avatar
mickyd
Platinum Member
Posts: 2999
Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:18 pm
Location: San Diego, CA
Contact:

Post by mickyd »

judaspre1982 wrote:
Mike, it looks like the broken piece came from the bottom of the jig saw. From your pic it looks like there is some jagged edges on the bottom of jig saw forward. The back of the saw on the bottom has a round casting but seems larger. Inspect that area. Let me know what you find.-----Dave
mickyd wrote:Good eyes Dave!! Check it out.

[ATTACH]4012[/ATTACH]

Even though I really hadn't made a concentrated effort to locate where the piece came from yet, I CAN'T BELIEVE I didn't notice that when I was taking the pictures!! Took your eyeballs 3000 miles away to pick up that small detail in the picture. (Don't mention a word of this to my company. I work as a Quality Assurance Manager and have the uncanny reputation of being able to spot a defective part a mile away!! :D :D ) I think I was just overwhelmed by seeing all the stuff I got for $30. Thanks Dave. Looks like another job for good old J-B Weld .

Does anyone know if the broken piece see's any stress during use? I can't picture how it would but without having this ER10 operational, I have no way testing it out. I ask because I need to figure out the best way to repair it. J-B Weld may not be enough if it's heavily stressed. I'd probably have to add some strapping if it see's stress. If it is stressed, what direction?
Mike
Sunny San Diego
User avatar
horologist
Gold Member
Posts: 431
Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:36 pm
Location: Melrose, FL

Post by horologist »

mickyd wrote:Does anyone know if the broken piece see's any stress during use? I can't picture how it would but without having this ER10 operational, I have no way testing it out. I ask because I need to figure out the best way to repair it. J-B Weld may not be enough if it's heavily stressed. I'd probably have to add some strapping if it see's stress. If it is stressed, what direction?
Mike,
I was wondering about that myself. I'm having trouble figuring out what that part does from the photos. I've never seen one of these machines in person.
It may be possible to have it welded. Some aluminum alloys can be welded, even some that supposedly can't be welded can still be welded.

If you do use JB Weld, it looks like there is a fair amount of meat on those lugs. You could drill a hole along the axis of the lug that goes into both pieces, as large and practical. Tap each hole, it isn't critical if the threads line up perfectly. Then insert a pin made from a smaller diameter of threaded steel rod well coated with JB weld. Prime the threads in the holes with JB Weld first. You might also make your pin from a high strength bolt or cut the threads yourself in a good piece of drill rod. The threaded rod and standard bolts at the big box stores are pretty low grade steel. If you fill the voids caused by the threads well it should have good tensile capability and be able to resist bending.

Hope this makes sense.

Troy
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
iclark
Platinum Member
Posts: 630
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:45 pm
Location: Hampton VA

Post by iclark »

mickyd wrote:Does anyone know if the broken piece see's any stress during use? <snip> If it is stressed, what direction?
from the jigsaw manual on the yahoo ER10 group site when installing the jigsaw:
[ATTACH]4013[/ATTACH]

so it sounds like this part does take some load.
how much and which direction(s) sounds like it may depend on how well the jigsaw was leveled and aligned and how sloppy the mounting bolt hole is.
also on how stiff the flexible coupler is.

I haven't seen one in operation, but it sounds like the broken off piece (and gravity) holds down the saw against the blade's cutting force on every stroke (since the table is separate from the jigsaw).

also, if the blade jams, how hard can the ER10 pull down on the blade (and lift that end of the jigsaw toward the table) before the blade lets go?
are we talking about the tensile strength of the blade or the force required to pull the blade out of the lower mount?
Attachments
chanfer_note-ER10-jsaw.GIF
chanfer_note-ER10-jsaw.GIF (14.54 KiB) Viewed 6756 times
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21359
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

mickyd wrote:Does anyone know if the broken piece see's any stress during use? I can't picture how it would but without having this ER10 operational, I have no way testing it out. I ask because I need to figure out the best way to repair it. J-B Weld may not be enough if it's heavily stressed. I'd probably have to add some strapping if it see's stress. If it is stressed, what direction?

I do not have a 10ER so this is just a guess. But it appears to me that the broken ring fits around the quill much like the lower saw guard mounts on the Mark 5.

This appears to me to be in the same general location where the power coupling is made between the jig saw and the headstock (the drive shaft).

I suspect it is a critical mechanical coupling point and the applied stress is up/down.:( Furthermore, I suspect that the stress that would break this piece is applied when mounting and dismounting the jig saw and not during normal operation.

I've seen the results of your work. This will be as good as new when you are done with it.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
iclark
Platinum Member
Posts: 630
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:45 pm
Location: Hampton VA

Post by iclark »

dusty wrote:Furthermore, I suspect that the stress that would break this piece is applied when mounting and dismounting the jig saw and not during normal operation.
if the end of the quill sticks in the chamfer when it is time to take the jigsaw off (essentially a taper joint sticking), then lifting up on the pulley end of the jigsaw would put a bending force on that hoop. I think you identified the primary failure mode.
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
Post Reply