Thank you for your descriptions. I am getting smarter but I'm not ready for the daily pop quiz yet.
I said they all look alike to me. So, the set screw that keeps the quill on the straight and narrow on my Redie was worn on the top. Took some effort and time to get it out. So, I decided to replace it. No problem, went to Lowes and got a 5/16x18 1/2" long. They're all the same , right? Installed it. Things appear to be OK. Now with this thread I learned that I have no idea what I put in that little hole and chances are good that it isn't right. I'll check tomorrow. Then I'll fuss about where to get the right kind.
BTW, I've been getting a veteran's 10% off at Lowes without a problem.
jcraigie wrote:$3.53 for one set screw! Holy crap:eek: You guys must be made out of money:rolleyes:
That was not intended as a pop quiz. That set screw is not typical of Shopsmith set screws. The brass tip is what makes it expensive and that tip is NOT used in the Shopsmith.
Therefore, my question to Farmer, WHERE do you use this type if setscrew. If in the Shopsmith anywhere, WHY.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
oddie wrote:Thank you for your descriptions. I am getting smarter but I'm not ready for the daily pop quiz yet.
I said they all look alike to me. So, the set screw that keeps the quill on the straight and narrow on my Redie was worn on the top. Took some effort and time to get it out. So, I decided to replace it. No problem, went to Lowes and got a 5/16x18 1/2" long. They're all the same , right? Installed it. Things appear to be OK. Now with this thread I learned that I have no idea what I put in that little hole and chances are good that it isn't right. I'll check tomorrow. Then I'll fuss about where to get the right kind.
BTW, I've been getting a veteran's 10% off at Lowes without a problem.
I don't put any goop in that hole. I use the specified length set set to start with and when done with the quill installation I follow that setscrew with a second one and it goes in just finger tight (no torguing the wrench), no goop.
In some circles saying they all look alike is a real BAD. I think you will get away with it here BUT no they are not all alike. Some are short and some are long. I don't know why and am not qualified to challenge the specification so I try to use what is there.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
That set setscrew on top of the headstock(that keeps the quill from rotating) really really really needs to be correct(half dog). It's tip rides in the keyway on top of the quill.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I cannot get to my 510 vintage this AM, but the goldie manual says nylok set screw. The end is domed, and the head is slotted. The thread pitch is 32, and it 'appears' to be #10.
P.S. the threads are truncated at the domed end. It may be 'a dog'. I will take another look!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Okay with all this talk about set screws what setscrew goes into a saw arbor?
Shopsmith has it as part number 222458 1/4" setscrew but it doesn't say if it is cup, cone, flat, cup serrated or what.
I think my arbors were all cupped but I looked and some aren't and I don't think I ever changed a set screw in any of them. Perhaps I did and don't remember.
Ed in Tampa wrote:Okay with all this talk about set screws what setscrew goes into a saw arbor?
Shopsmith has it as part number 222458 1/4" setscrew but it doesn't say if it is cup, cone, flat, cup serrated or what.
I think my arbors were all cupped but I looked and some aren't and I don't think I ever changed a set screw in any of them. Perhaps I did and don't remember.
222458 is: 5/16"-18x1/4" Black Oxide Alloy Steel Flat Point Socket Set Screw
Thank you for your question. It brought to my attention that I have not included the arbors or the sanding disks on my list of set screws.
Your question, however, is one of the complaints that I have long had about the parts description used by Shopsmith. As you point out, it is incomplete. The description does not define the point type that engineering determined was most appropriate.
Within the Shopsmith application it is often difficult to decide knurled, cup, flat.
I will be reposting the Set Screw List. I have spent the last couple days with something like a flu so no shop work (too far from facilities) and I have used that time to research a couple sources of set screws.
The search engines create confusion (at least for me) when looking for sources on these parts. They search rewsponse is most often too board and leaves too much to your interpretation. It seems you need to know before you go searching what the answer is.
Google the description that I listed above and see what I mean.
Fastenol has given me what I believe is the best results.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I am getting smarter but I'm not ready for the daily pop quiz yet. 
