520 Pro Fence
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520 Pro Fence
I'm having problems with my 520 Pro Fence. It doesn't hold the position when I set it. During the cutting operation, it drifts away and messes up my cut. I can't get it to lock in place. I've tried adjusting it by the 4 top screws and the 2 nuts front and back but without any luck.
Is there written instructions on the steps to adjust the rip fence? I have not been successful in finding it. Also, I remember seeing some discussions on adjusting a rip fence here on the forum but also have not found anything useful.
Any help either pointing me to the instructions or some steps to follow would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Joe
Is there written instructions on the steps to adjust the rip fence? I have not been successful in finding it. Also, I remember seeing some discussions on adjusting a rip fence here on the forum but also have not found anything useful.
Any help either pointing me to the instructions or some steps to follow would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Joe
- JPG
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Re: 520 Pro Fence
Wait for it! Dusty will jump in here soon I promise. I ain't got one so I cannot help.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: 520 Pro Fence
Is your rear fence lock clamping down tight? I had that same problem. I tightened the rear fence lock and all is well.
Jim
Jim
Hello from Somerset in the beautiful Pennsylvania Laurel Highlands.
Mark 7, Mark VII, Mark V 520, Mark V 510 x 2, Mark V 500
SPT's - Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, Jointer, strip sander, Oscillating Sander, Speed Increaser
SS Freestanding - Pro Planer, Scroll Saw, Overarm Pin Router, Power Station, DC3000 x 2
Made for SS - Incra iBox, Ring Master
"Honest dear, I can quit any time I want."
Mark 7, Mark VII, Mark V 520, Mark V 510 x 2, Mark V 500
SPT's - Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, Jointer, strip sander, Oscillating Sander, Speed Increaser
SS Freestanding - Pro Planer, Scroll Saw, Overarm Pin Router, Power Station, DC3000 x 2
Made for SS - Incra iBox, Ring Master
"Honest dear, I can quit any time I want."
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: 520 Pro Fence
First let me make sure that I understand your problem. I believe you are saying that the fence can be moved along the rails (left/right) even when the two levers on the front of the fence are in the down position.
If that be the case, the four screws on the top have absolutely nothing to do with your problem. By loosening them, you may have introduced still another issue to be resolved later (but before you rip any boards). Those four screws when loose, allow the rip fence to move so as to not be parallel to the blade.
The nut on the back and the one under the fence on the front are associated with the rip fence lock.
The lower lever is to be used to lock the fence to the front rail and in normal operation should be locked first. This lever, when secured, moves the fence to the position to which it has been aligned (parallel to the miter slots). The adjustment for that lever is on the under side of the fence.
The upper lever is to be used to lock down the rear end of the rip fence to the rear rail. It should be locked only after the the front lock has been secured. When this lever is locked, the fence should not move. The nut on the front end of the fence is used to adjust this lock.
The adjustments are made by feeling the pressure required to move the levers into the locked position. It is a trial an error adjustment.
If that be the case, the four screws on the top have absolutely nothing to do with your problem. By loosening them, you may have introduced still another issue to be resolved later (but before you rip any boards). Those four screws when loose, allow the rip fence to move so as to not be parallel to the blade.
The nut on the back and the one under the fence on the front are associated with the rip fence lock.
The lower lever is to be used to lock the fence to the front rail and in normal operation should be locked first. This lever, when secured, moves the fence to the position to which it has been aligned (parallel to the miter slots). The adjustment for that lever is on the under side of the fence.
The upper lever is to be used to lock down the rear end of the rip fence to the rear rail. It should be locked only after the the front lock has been secured. When this lever is locked, the fence should not move. The nut on the front end of the fence is used to adjust this lock.
The adjustments are made by feeling the pressure required to move the levers into the locked position. It is a trial an error adjustment.
- Attachments
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- Bottom levers locks fence in position. Top lever locks rear of fence.
- P2060002 (Custom).JPG (74.29 KiB) Viewed 3214 times
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: 520 Pro Fence
Thanks for the input. I may have been moving the nut too far at a time. I had it where the lever had to be forced down so I knew it was not correct. I will get back to the shop tomorrow afternoon and try adjusting it.
If I messed up the adjustment with the 4 screws, is there a pattern to follow to get it re-aligned?
If I messed up the adjustment with the 4 screws, is there a pattern to follow to get it re-aligned?
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: 520 Pro Fence
seajay62 wrote:Thanks for the input. I may have been moving the nut too far at a time. I had it where the lever had to be forced down so I knew it was not correct. I will get back to the shop tomorrow afternoon and try adjusting it.
If I messed up the adjustment with the 4 screws, is there a pattern to follow to get it re-aligned?
First step is to align the table so the miter gauge slots are parallel to the face(front to rear) of the BLADE.
Then the rip fence is aligned parallel to the miter gauge slots.
Setting the table square to the blade face(vertically) is a third adjustment.
As Dusty mentioned the rip fence MUST be parallel to the blade or safety issues rear their ugly head. Loosening those 4 screws no doubt destroyed any previous setting. Be careful torqueing those screws - too much may strip the threads.
Those safety issues can cause near lethal harm(if not lethal).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- rjent
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Re: 520 Pro Fence
Make sure you WAX the lever cams. It helps you "feel" how much actual tension you are making instead of how much friction to lock them.
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Re: 520 Pro Fence
Finally, I found some time to follow Dusty's advice and adjust the fence. It seems to be working but I will be watching it more closely because I'm not sure of the "feel" at the levers. After setting the locks, I did check the alignment of the fence and it was off. Everything seems okay. Thanks to Dusty and the rest for your input.
Just curious to find out - is there SS provided written instructions for adjusting the 520 fence?
Regards,
Joe
Just curious to find out - is there SS provided written instructions for adjusting the 520 fence?
Regards,
Joe
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34632
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: 520 Pro Fence
A little oil where the rod(s?) pass(es) through the head helps.rjent wrote:Make sure you WAX the lever cams. It helps you "feel" how much actual tension you are making instead of how much friction to lock them.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21368
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: 520 Pro Fence
At the start of this thread, I looked in my files for instructions and I have none. I consider that odd because Shopsmith normally provides an instruction sheet with anything they sell but I have none.seajay62 wrote:Finally, I found some time to follow Dusty's advice and adjust the fence. It seems to be working but I will be watching it more closely because I'm not sure of the "feel" at the levers. After setting the locks, I did check the alignment of the fence and it was off. Everything seems okay. Thanks to Dusty and the rest for your input.
Just curious to find out - is there SS provided written instructions for adjusting the 520 fence?
Regards,
Joe
If you make any further adjustments, make them minute. It does not take much at this point to over adjust.
I adjust the fence to the miter track. I have a piece of wood cut that fits snuggly in the track and stands about 2" proud of the table. I loosen the four bolts on top (careful here,there have been reports of these stripping out) and then I slide the fence up against the miter track, secure in firmly to the front rail, clamp the fence to the board in the miter track and snug down the four bolts in the top.
Slide the fence away from the board and then repeat the previous steps for verification. Loosen the four bolts and repeat if necessary.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.