Shopsmith Forums

Continuity check the start switch and connecting wires. An interesting 'test' would be to remove the capacitor from the start circuit and try the free spinning test. I predict no difference.

I am still stuck in “drawer purgatory” but I am now ready to install them. Prior to gluing them up, I decided to build Nick Engler’s gluing jig. Here is a link to The Workshop Companion website: https://workshopcompanionstore.com/ This is a fantastic gluing jig and provides a dead flat surface with...

Any hand held sander(powered) would be a better approach.

Slow is the method I have used in the past. The plastic must NOT melt. I have even run 1/4" as an edge finisher through the jointer (again, slow).

1/2" would have to require even slower.

That explanation makes wonder what the correct range of new 1/2" shorter belts is. ;>}










Ya I do realize that explanation assumes the initial setup is unchanged during the subsequent belt stretching.







I can also see why the numbers were prudently removed.

I believe the "new" two bearing idler shaft assembly is directly interchangeable with the "old' water pump bearing. Second retaining screw needs to be added to eccentric.

BTW the 'button' bearing is part of the control sheave.

No experience here, but I question the assumption that a 3 phase induction motor is tolerant of a wide frequency range. Or the 3 phase converter as well.

I believe the subject is quill shaft set screws. I can agree that drive hubs on either rear shaft or SPTs need to be cup or serrated cup tips.

Other locations used for holding parts in assemblies also need to be cup . . .

Not yet mentioned is proper length will vary.

My take on funky English/spelling is inexcusable since a serious review of the product will reveal all(assuming the reviewer is functionally literate with the language(and the intended purpose of the product)).

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Press fit.