You Can Look Up To
Doing your own room remodeling offers tremendous satisfaction for
several reasons. Most importantly, you know you're doing'it'yourself
and you can take pride in seeing the fruits of your labor - a room
that's fresh and different. Another cause for satisfaction is saving
money by doing'it'yourself, using your own time and resources. But,
the real pleasure of room remodeling discussed in this series is
in knowing what you've done is unique - making woodwork that's not
available to the average homeowner.
In this article, we take on ceiling moldings. Designed to cover
the seams where the walls meet the ceiling, these moldings do double'duty
by also providing an eye'pleasing transition from one surface to
another. Again, as with other moldings, design and type of wood
allow you to add personality to your room.
how to create ceiling moldings for your room:
your molding. There are three kinds of ceiling moldings you
can make - crown,bed and cove. An example of each is illustrated
below. Crown and cove moldings are always "sprung" meaning that
they have beveled edges that rest on the ceiling and wall, thereby
spanning the ceiling/wall joint. This spanning allows the molding
to readily adjust to minor irregularities and provide a clean line
where it meets the ceiling or wall. Bed molding can be either sprung
or plain - the latter type fitting snug into the joint. Use one
of the designs illustrated below or create the profile you want
by arranging molding knives in various positions.
stock. It's essential you use straight, true and clear stock
for your molding. For our examples we used walnut, cherry, and oak.
Rip stock to required widths. Prepare enough extra stock to allow
for cutting errors.
the profiles. As you can see by the crown and bed moldings we
feature, using just a couple of molding knives yields attractive
profiles. The cove molding, on the other hand, uses no molding knives;
rather, it's done entirely on the table saw. Be sure to always use
push blocks, push sticks, feather boards and roller stand for safety.
the molding. After you have completed the profiles, bevel the
edges of the molding on the table saw. Tilt the table 45 degrees,
mount the rip fence below the blade and use a feather board to help
guide the stock.
Install the molding. Start installing the ceiling molding
on the longest wall first. Drill 7/64" pilot holes for 8d finish
nails and nail the molding through the plaster or drywall into the
upper wall plate. For large moldings, nail through to the ceiling
joint. Cut the molding just a trifle long so it can be lightly sprung
into place. If the molding isn't long enough, use a miter lap joint
to join two shorter pieces. Install the remaining molding by mitering
the outside corners and coping (see footnote) or mitering the inside
touches. Countersink the nails and apply the finish of your
choice. Fill the nail holes with wood putty that matches the color
of your finished molding.
in image for a larger picture)
detailed information on the installation of molding and how to miter
and cope joints, refer to:
Carpentry and Building Construction by John L. Feirer, (Bennet
Publishing, Peoria, IL), pp 937-44.
From Tree to Trim, Western Wood Molding and Millwork Producers,
P.O. Box 25278, Portland, OR 97225.