STEP 2: ASSEMBLING THE SHAPER COMPONENTS YOU WILL NEED TO GET STARTED
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Using your 5/32" Allen wrench, remove your sawing table insert and replace it with the shaper/router table insert. Then replace the insert setscrews and tighten with your 5/32" Allen wrench. NOTE: If the dust collection chute is attached to the bottom of the insert, remove it prior to attaching the insert to the worktable.
Use your 5/32" Allen wrench to remove the plastic tie bar guard that is attached to the tie bar underneath the worktable. NOTE: This guard is provided for table sawing operations and is therefore unnecessary for use during under-table shaping.
Remove the worktable from the carriage by loosening the table height Lock and lifting the table straight up, as shown. Rotate the Table 180", so its surface faces the opposite direction and remount it into the carriage by placing the table support tubes into the carriage mounting holes. NOTE: If the table doesn't slip into the carriage easily, gently rock it front-to-back until the support tube racks engage the pinions and the tubes drop into the carriage holes.
Slide the carriage toward the headstock until it butts up against the rubber spacer next to the headstock, then secure the carriage lock. Double-check the headstock, carriage, table height and table tilt locks to be certain they are securely tightened.
Grasp the way tubes (close to the right-hand base mount) with both hands and raise the MARK 7 into inverted vertical position. Be sure the arm lock knob is loose before raising. Tighten the locking knob on the base mount, then attempt to rock the way tubes side-to-side. If the way tubes move, re-tighten the locking knob to take any play out of the base pivot and keep the machine from wobbling.
Loosen the quill feed lock and the table height lock. With one hand, turn the quill feed handle to raise the quill spindle up through the hole in the shaper table insert. At the same time, with the other hand, use the table height crank handle to move the worktable in-and-out until the quill spindle is centered in the hole of the shaper table insert. Secure the table height lock and quill lock, being certain that the shaper arbor quill spindle is above the worktable surface.
Using an 11/16" wrench and a 1" wrench, remove the hex nut and rub collars on the end of the shaper arbor. For illustration purposes, we'll be using the bead & quarter-round cutter in our operational steps which follow. First, slip the 1-1/2" rub collar back onto the arbor, followed by the bead & quarter-round cutter.
WARNING: For this example, the cutter will rotate counter-clockwise as seen from the top. The cutter MUST be installed so the flat, cutting surface is facing to the right. The stock must be fed from right-to-left, AGAINST the rotation of the cutter.
Install the 1" Rub Collar onto the arbor and on top of your cutter, followed by the tongue washer with its tongue in the arbor's slot.
Thread the shaper guide pins into the holes on the table insert and tighten both with a screwdriver. This will allow you to move your workpiece from your right to your left, into the rotation of the cutter.
Attach the shaper guard assembly to the worktable by sliding the T-Nut that's attached to the guard post into the worktable's miter gauge T-slot that's closest to the carriage. Tighten the guard post by inserting your 5/32" Allen wrench through the small hole on the top of the post and twisting the post clockwise.
NOTE: Slide the T-Nut into the slot from the OUTFEED side of the cutter/worktable and be certain that it's positioned so the guard's shield fits over BOTH pins in the table insert with its bottom edge 1/8" above the workpiece.
See How Simple That Was!
Now that you've located and assembled the components you'll need for shaping, CLICK HERE to make an under-table shaping cut.
- Knowing Your Machine
- Getting Ready
- Table Saw
- Drill Press
- Horizontal Boring
- Disc Sanding
- Over-Table Router
- Under-Table Shaper
- Making a Project