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The accessories that are used for routing are: (A) the circular
shield and brace assembly, (B) router chuck, and (C) router
bits. Also the rip fence and miter gauge are used to support
and guide the stock.
The drill press
mode of the Mark V can be used as a stationary router in both its
vertical and horizontal positions. But to accomplish this, a special
chuck is required to secure the high-speed bits because of the side
thrust that is characteristic of routing operations. The chuck is
locked firmly in place by securing its setscrew against the main
spindle's tapered flat. Two setscrews lock the bits in the chuck.
Router bits can be straight or, like the dovetail cutter, may have
shaped cutting edges. The routing accessories are shown in Figure
are made at high speed and with reasonable feed pressure so the
bit can do its job without choking or burning. Always perform routing
operations at Fast speed. Do not form excessively deep
cuts in a single pass. Deep cuts are easier to make and the results
will be smoother if you get to full depth of cut by making repeat
passes no deeper than 1/4" or less, depending on the size of the
Before using the routing accessory, read and understand these Important
danger zone on the Mark V when routing extends 3" all around the
bit and chuck and 5" in front of the bit. Always keep your fingers
and hands out of the danger zone.
When you work
at the router, pay attention to where you put your hands. Be certain
they aren't in front of the bit when you advance the quill. Never
reach in toward or in front of the bit to clear away scraps. Turn
off the machine and let it come to a complete stop first.
the Router-The circular shield and brush assembly must always
be used for router operations. It mounts to the quill and is adjustable
to accommodate various thickness' of stock.
- Wear proper
eye and ear protection.
- Tuck long
hair under a hat or tie It up. Do not wear ties, gloves, jewelry
or loose clothing. Roll sleeves up above your elbows. Wear non-slip
mount the circular shield and brush assembly on the Mark V quill
before performing routing operations.
run the router at 'FAST' speed.
taking deep cuts. With the exception of single-pass dovetail cuts,
limit depth of cut to 1/4" for each pass when using bits up to
1/2" diameter. When using bits over 1/2" diameter, limit depth
of cut to 1/8".
freehand rout. Always use the rip fence or miter gauge when using
bits without pilots, and a starter pin when using bits with pilots.
feed the workpiece against the rotation of the bit. Otherwise
a kickback will occur.
- Feed the
workpiece slowly. Use extra care when routing stock that contains
figured grain or knots, as these may cause kickbacks.
- Use a
push stick to feed a narrow workpiece. When it Is necessary to
push a workpiece underneath the shield, use a long piece of scrap
- Cut with
the grain when straight-line routing.
- Do not
stand directly inline with the workpiece. In the event of a kickback
you could be hit.
- When routing
across the grain of workpieces up to 10" wide, always use your
miter gauge with safety grip to control the workpiece.
- When stop
routing, always use stop block(s) to control the length of cut.
Failure to use stop block(s) will cause a kickback.
- When routing
an oversize workpiece, always use at least one push block to help
control the workpiece. Hold the workpiece firmly against the rip
- When edge
routing with a piloted bit, always use either a starter pin or
a fence to start the cut and/or guide the workpiece.
- Set speed
to 'SLOW,' turn off and unplug the Mark V before mounting router
- Make sure
the setscrew in the chuck is tightened against the fiat of the
main spindle and the bit is secured tightly in the chuck. Then
remove the Allen wrench immediately.
for chatter or signs of looseness at startup. If you hear, see
or suspect problems, turn off and unplug the machine. Correct
any problem before proceeding.
- Keep the
bits clean, maintained and sharp.
come in a variety of shapes and sizes, each designed to perform
a specific operation. You'll also find how to use decorative edging
bits and how to perform additional routing operations.
The distance from the outer edge of the workpiece to the bit
determines the setup. Click on image for larger view.
the distance from the outer edge of the workpiece to the bit determines
- When workpiece
edge is 1" or less from bit, use one feather board on the infeed
side and an additional feather board on the outfeed side, both
secured in the table slot. Use a push stick, or when it's necessary
to push work-piece underneath the shield, use a piece of wood
- When workpiece
edge is 1" to 2-3/4" from bit, use two feather boards as above
or use one feather board centered to the bit, secured in table
slot. Use a push stick or piece of wood to push the workpiece
under the shield (Figure
- When workpiece
edge is 2-3/4" to 5-1/2" from bit, use one feather board centered
to the bit and secured to table with two C-clamps. Use a push
block (Figure 10-2C).
- When routing
across the grain of workpieces up to 10" wide, use the miter gauge
and safety grip. Workpiece must extend 5-1/2" away from bit (Figure
- When routing
an oversize workpiece, use a push block (Figure
made with the grain are smoother than cross grain or against the
grain cuts, but you can't always work that way. When you can't,
work with a slower feed rate and less depth of cut for optimum results.
- The depth
of single pass cuts should be limited as follows:
- 1/4" maximum
depth of cut for bits up to 1/2" diameter.
- 1/8" maximum
depth of cut for bits over 1/2" diameter.
- Less than
the above limits when routing extremely hard wood.
Feed the workpiece from left to right against the bit's direction
of rotation. A slow feed with a shallow depth of cut will
produce the best results.
Feed the workpiece
from left to right against the bit's direction of rotation (Figure
10-3). The action of the properly installed bit will help keep
the workpiece against the fence.
When using auxiliary
facings, it is a good idea to remember that when the fence is behind
the bit, the pass is also made from left to right.
Make cross grain cuts by working with the miter gauge and
Make cross grain
cuts by working with the miter gauge and safety grip (Figure
10-4). Some chipping will occur where the bit breaks through,
so allow for it by making the cut on an extra-wide piece. Then you
can remove the chipped edge using the table saw or jointer.
Construction details of the auxiliary facing.
are often routed to form rabbets. For this and similar kinds of
work, make an auxiliary facing, as shown in Figure
10-5, that can be attached to the rip fence as shown in Figure
10-6. The relief area allows adjustments so the bit can project
beyond the bearing surface of the facing. The depth of cut is controlled
by quill extension; width of cut is controlled by how much the bit
projects. If you need a wider cut, move the table or reposition
the fence and make another pass.
An auxiliary facing that can be bolted to the rip fence is
a must for many routing operations. The relief area allows
for setting the bit so cuts like the rabbet can be make.
The stop blocks determine the length of the mortise. Full
mortise depth is reached by making repeat passes.
round ends can be formed with a router bit (Figure
10-7). Mark the stock where the mortise begins; clamp stop blocks
to a fence extension to control the length of the mortise in both
directions. Position the workpiece against the left stop block so
the bit will be at the first mark, extend the quill to penetrate
the workpiece, and lock it. Then move the workpiece until it contacts
the right stop block. Mortise cuts are usually quite deep, so repeat
passes will be necessary. The width of the mortise depends on the
size of the bit.
Mortises formed with a router bit will have round ends, so
the tenon must be shaped to fit.
this way will have round ends; therefore, the tenon must be shaped
to fit (Figure 10-8).
are formed the same way as mortises except that after the quill
is extended and locked in position, the cut starts at the end of
the workpiece and continues until it contacts the stop block (Figure
Slots are formed like mortises except that the cut starts
at the end of the workpiece.
These are typical examples of dovetail joints
A dovetail is
one of the strongest joints in woodworking because it will resist
a pulling strain in every direction but the one from which the tenons
are inserted into the slots. Two common applications are shown in
The same dovetail
cutter is used to form both the tenon and the slot. Mating the parts
is a matter of positioning the cuts in proper relationship to each
Spacing of the
cuts is determined by the size of the cutter and the design of the
joint. One method is to mark the workpiece and align each cut with
the cutter. Another method is to pencil mark the worktable so that
the edge of the workpiece can be moved forward to a new mark after
each cut. When you mark the worktable, first determine the centerline
of the spindle; then mark the cutlines by measuring toward the worktable
edges, front and rear. One technique is to use measuring tape which
has a gummed side. This may be placed on the worktable and then
removed when not in use.
Dovetail tenons can be formed as shown. The table height lever
(Model 500) or table height crank (Model 510) is used as the
forward feed mechanism.
To cut dovetail
tenons as shown in Figure
10-11, position the worktable parallel to the way tubes. Use
the table height lever (Model 500) or table height crank (Model
510) as a forward feed mechanism, the stop collars from the lathe
tailstock to control table movement, the quill feed lever to obtain
exact depth of cut, the rip fence as a platform for the workpiece
and the miter gauge to square the work-piece to the cutter. When
feeding the workpiece forward against the cutter, move the worktable
slowly, and be sure the workpiece is clamped securely in place.
After the cut is made, turn off the Mark V and return the worktable
to the starting position. If desired, place the workpiece for the
next cut and repeat the procedure.
Make dovetail slots using a feather board and push block.
The mating cuts
are formed with the worktable in the horizontal position and with
the fence used as a guide (Figure
10-12). The table is brought up as close to the cutter as possible,
and the final adjustment is made by extending the quill. The workpiece
is fed forward against the cutter. A stop is clamped on the fence
to control the length of cut. For spacing, the fence can be moved
for each new cut or the worktable can be advanced-again by using
the table height mechanism as a forward feed device. When feeding
the workpiece against the cutter, hold it firmly on the worktable
and push it slowly. Caution: If the cut is for a through dovetail,
use a scrap block between the work and the table.
This long dovetail slot might be required for a sliding assembly.
Note the position of the worktable and the rip fence and the
use of the feather board and fence extension.
The tenon on
a single, wide dovetail is formed by making two cuts, one on each
end of the stock. The mating part is formed the same way, with the
waste stock cut away by running the work across the cutter within
limits set by the two end cuts and stop blocks. Care must be exercised
in positioning the pieces for successive cuts, but testing in scrap
wood before cutting will make this easier. By using the setups shown
in Figures 10-13
and 10-14, you
can join boards edge-to-edge or provide a sliding arrangement.
A dovetail tenon is formed in two passes, one one each face
of the stock.
Cut the slot
in one pass by placing the table as shown and adjusting it so the
cut is made directly down the centerline of the board (Figure
10-13). Depth of cut is set by lowering the quill and locking
it in position. Feed the workpiece slowly and keep it flat against
the table. Don't force the workpiece. The tenon requires two passes.
The workpiece is positioned so the cutter forms the tenon on one
side of the board. Then the workpiece is turned and the second pass
is made; thus, the cutter completes the forming of the tenon on
the opposite surface of the board (Figure
10-14). Here, even more than elsewhere, be sure the workpiece
is held firmly and flat against the table.
A sliding table greatly simplifies cutting a dovetail slot
in an extra wide piece.
Wide stock that
must be grooved across the grain requires a sliding table arrangement
to which the work can be clamped (Figure
10-15). The fixture is constructed as shown in Figure
10-16, with the runners situated so the platform will slide
smoothly on the table. The table is raised to an approximate position
and the final adjustment for depth of cut is made by using the quill
Construction details of the sliding table. Runners should
fit snugly against the edges of the table (Model 500) or the
table tubes (Model 510). Click on image for larger view.
Two passes are needed on an extra-wide workpiece. Be sure
to align the bit and the kerf.
With this arrangement
the length of cut is limited to the distance from the cutter to
the tubes. On narrow stock the groove can be completed in one pass
by using a spacer board between the workpiece and the fence. Wide
boards require two cuts from opposite sides of the board on a common
centerline. Alignment is important. Locate the cutter center by
marking a pencil line on the fence of the sliding table. Mark lines
on the workpiece to locate the centerlines of the grooves. Align
these with the mark on the fence. Since the first half-cut (on wide
boards) removes the line, it is necessary to use a straightedge
to realign the workpiece with the mark on the fence before completing
the cut (Figure 10-17).
This method is not limited to dovetail grooves; straight grooves
are cut with router bits, and the procedure is exactly the same.
A router bit can be used to form edge grooves if this setup
is employed. The feather board keeps the workpiece flat on
As shown in
grooves are cut with the Mark V in the horizontal position. A fence
extension and feather board provide guidance and support as the
workpiece is fed through. The depth of cuts given in General
Routing apply. If it's tough to feed the workpiece, the
workpiece chatters, or the cut is rough, you are probably cutting
too deep. Back off and make repeat passes instead. The same setup
can be used to form rabbets or tongues.
Use the miter gauge and miter gauge stop rod when doing cross
grain work. Feathering at the end of the cut is characteristic
but is easily removed by jointing or sawing.
grain cuts by working with the miter gauge and using the miter gauge
stop rod to determine the depth of cut (Figure
10-19). There will be some feathering at the end of the cut,
so work on a piece that is wider than you need. Remove the chip
by making a light jointer cut or by sawing.